After much too long, I have finally finished my HSR, Comp cam, and G-Force installation...only to try to fire the engine and have fuel leaks all over the place. The fuel pressure gauge goes from 45psi down to 0 in seconds...same upon priming the fuel system without cranking the engine.

#2 injector has fuel at the base of the injector bore, and both front cross-over line fittings are leaking - the driver's side sprayed fuel upon cranking

I remember thinking that the fuel fittings were not the most secure feeling upon installation, but the injector leaking at the base has me troubled...o-ring perhaps?

Has anyone else had trouble with the fuel fittings/fuel rail/injectors on the HSR? What is the preferred method of fastening? Also, how do you adjust the fuel pressure with the distributor cap on?? Not much room back there for fiddling around, now is there?

 

I had similar problems to yours when I first did my HSR. basically tighten up the leaking fittings on the rail. Preferred method was a cresent wrench and a few open ended wrenches. for the injector, you either didn't seat it properly or the o-ring is damaged. as for the lines, I think I cleverly found a way to make my own. I took goodyear fuel injection hose (the size recommended by holley, should be 5/8 if my memory serves me correctly) and I took the hard metal lines that go to the original TPI fuel rail, straightened it out, slid the threaded connector all the way down the hard line, and then worked the flared and o-ringed fitting of the Fuel-In line into the fuel injector hose until it was about 3-4" in. I then slid three clamps over and tightened them down. this also allowed me to bend the fuel lines to where I wanted them routed making for a cleaner engine bay. Since the Fuel-In was the line with the high pressure, this coupled with tightening all the fittings again stopped all the leaks to the engine. the return line is very low pressure so I just used the remaining fuel injection hose, and brass pipe fittings and couplings to connect them. No leaks whatsoever on that and it has been working and functioning great. 42.5 psi FP according to gauge readout (non adjustable regulator). good luck

 

Did you put some oil or petro jelly on the rings before you seated them? (both ends) You may have torn one

 

Well, I removed, re-oiled, and re-seated the injectors and they seem to be ok now...they looked good upon removal too - it is quite possible that the fuel I saw collecting at the bottom of #2 injector could actually be fuel leaking from the front cross-over fitting and finding its way to the lowest point along the fuel rail...

The front cross-over line is now leaking worse since I tightened it up more. Are the front fittings supposed to have o-rings in them or just seal by compression?? They don't have o-rings in them now and they leak just by priming the fuel system with pressure. Fuel is clearly spilling/spewing out at the fitting under the throttle body.

Help

 

I had no problems with my HSR install at all. I removed original fuel lines tho and bought aftermarket ones. They run from the back of the HSR down to the original lines under the car. If you are using the stock fuel lines then you will need o-rings for them. Not sure if this helps cuz I dont know which way you chose to do the lines.

 

It's not the stock fuel lines that I am having trouble with...I replaced them with new braided lines and new Earl's fittings - works like a champ!

I am having trouble with the Holley supplied hard line and fittings that connect one fuel rail to the other, at the front of the intake and just below the throttle body. Do the factory Holley fittings need o-rings to seal correctly? If not, then why are my fittings leaking like crazy after tightening them down more??

My self-fabricated lines are tight and dry as a bone, but the hard line and fittings that Holley supplied are not sealing at all

 

Loosen the fittings where the flare is then loosen the two bolts holding the fuel rails to the manifold. Tighten the rail fittings back up and then tighten the fuel rail to manifold bolts. Unless you've damaged the flare or the seat on the fittings it should seal.

I, also, had no trouble with them.

As far as the regulator goes, it didn't take me long to figure out I needed to turn in around so the vacuum nipple faced out. Then, the fitting was close to the distributor and is a pain to put on, but it's a lot easier to adjust the regulator now!

Also, for anyone else reading this thread in the future; BE SURE TO CHECK INSIDE THE FUEL RAILS BEFORE INSTALLING THEM! There were aluminum shavings inside both of mine.

HTH

 

on the fuel cross over line there most definately are supposed to be o-rings mine came with the o-rings slid on to the fittings they were just sitting on the fittings urs might have fallen out in the package or in the box.

 

im am in the process of finishing my stealth ram install all i have to finish is spark plug wires for my headers and finishing my chip burning

 

O-rings are supposed to be on the flare fittings that attach the cross over tube to the 90* fittings that go into the rails?

Are you certain?

 

The O-rings go onto the 90* fittings that screw into the fuel rails. Put a small amount of Vaseline on the O-rings before you screw them in there.

 

I just put an o-ring on each of the flare fittings and tightened them down with no issues...Now I see the real problem. I had previously changed the 90* fitting under the throttle body to a narrower one and it is now the leaking fitting...

I have the fatter, Holley supplied fitting and will try that, but now I have to modify the TB cable bracket (same reason I went with the narrower fitting)...there is a very recent post about the TB bracket hitting the fuel rail fitting...

 

Well, I fixed all of the fuel leaks, but now the engine won't start

I have fuel pressure (obviously), but it just cranks, cranks and then "hisses" at me when I let off the starter...Any ideas? I am about fed-up with this thing

 

Yeah, there's your problem!

Probably have the cylinders washed down (hissing past rings)from all the key on cycles, or any other number of things with that many changes, (valve ajustment). Go back, check everything, and don't give up until it runs!

Or, step away from it for a bit until you feel fresh.

 

Thanks for the motivation That's twice now that you have helped me get back into the garage and figure something out.

I checked the timing and found the following:

- pulled #1 plug, and luckily the balancer mark was already close to TDC.

- turned the engine by hand until TDC and stuck a wire in the spark plug hole, finding the piston right at the top, where it should be.

- Removed the distributor cap and found the rotor pointing to #6

Problem found, now to pull the distributor and turn it 180* to bring it into phase.

Just thought I'd share the simple steps it takes to fix a simple issue. Hopefully it will fire right up after I have dinner and finish this thing.

 

well i suppose you got it to fire correct? btw welcome to the boards

 

turn your AFPR around on the fuel rail so the screw is facing out towards you then you can adjust it easy, as one of the other guys already said.