First post here and I would like to say you guys have an awesome forum!! Vader and Trickster you guys are my freakin hero's. I have been reading posts for the last year and this place is cool!!
Ok, on to the problem, did a head swap(due to broken exhaust bolts in the head) with motor out of the car, everything went back in easy enough. Now that everythings back in I can't get the fuel pump to run. Car ran fine before the head swap so I would bet my pump is still good. I have decent spark, timing has been set numerous times and is set at 6 BTDC, and plugs and wires are in good shape and in correct order. Disconnected fuel lines thinking maybe I had reassembled them backwards and turned the key on and fuel was just dribbling out. Kinda like a kitchen faucet on maybe a third of the way. I dont have a pressure gauge but it was on the low side. I then checked my relay and that has been jumped by the previous owner.... So if it worked like that for the last 2 years I am sure its ok now???
Fuses all check out good except for the acc fuse which is not getting power to it. During the hooking up phase of this I ground out the starter wires against the block and fried something cause I lost headlights, dome lights and power windows and locks right after that little incident.
I went out and bought both Chiltons and Hanyes for the
diagrams but still cant pinpoint this one.
Thanks in advance for any and all help in getting this beast fired up!!

 

Definitely sounds like an electrical problem. Unfortunately it's real hard to trace that down remotely. Check in your manuals for the location of the "fusible link". There should be one on the battery positive cable, and I believe there is at leaast one more on the firewall. The one in the battery cable would be my first check. Hopefully a fusible link, which is kind of like a fuse built in line with the wiring, let go before any other damage was done. If that doesn't do it, I'm afraid you'll have to start at the fuse box and work backwards until you found the shorted and probably melted out wiring.

Good Luck, and be sure to let us know what you find. Have a Great Day!



- Vern

 

Nice
thanks Vern,
Fusible links by the battery and starter are all good, power both before and after them.
Firewall fusible link?? any idea where to start looking?
Can you tell by looking when a fusible link has burned up? I have never seen one burn before...
added note
fuel pump relay does have power going to it...

 

Sorry, I don't have any manuals here at work. As far as what one looks like burned up, I've never seen one either. Checking for power on both sides (or for continuity w/ohmneter) says they're good though.

Does the fuel pump relay show any power to the pump when you first turn on the key? "When you first turn on the key" is critical here - our ECM's disconnect power to the fuel pump after like 5 seconds or so if it doesn't see an RPM signal (meaning the engine has started). Does that as a safety precaution so the pump doesn't pour fuel on a possible engine fire.

Unfortunately, you're probably going to have to diagnose the lack of power to all the accessories and that will probably lead you to the solution on this as well.

Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance. Maybe Trickster can offer more info.


- Vern

 

what post would I check in the relay?

 

I got it, checked the diagram in the book...
thanks again Vern,
I got a pm into Trickster now...

 

ok ran a jumper wire from battery to fuel pump check, under hood and got the fuel pump to run. Started the car and it still stumbles and wont idle. Maybe stumble is the wrong word, misses would be better. Again spark plug wires are in the correct order and timing is 6 degrees BTDC.
Fuel pressure is maybe doubled but I still dont think its enough.
When I hit the shrader valve fuel drop jumped up maybe an inch but didnt spray at all.

Anybody???????

 

Hello Broken305Z.

Okay, looking at my schematics here. There is a fusible link that runs to the fog lamps fuse on the fuse block, before it gets there it splits off and an goes to the light switch and the 'ACC" fuse which provides power to the "TAIL & "LID" fuse. An orange wire runs from the "TAIL" fuse to pin "F" of the light switch.There is a small red wire that comes off the battery with a fusible link in it. It goes to the alternator, coolant fan relay, heavy duty fan relay, and an in-line fuse in the engine bay that powers the fuel pump/oil pressure sender switch, fuel pump relay and the ECM. The "ACC" fuse powers the power door locks, power mirros, interior lights, cigar lighter,hatch release, and the convenience center. You can check a fusible link for servicability by pulling on it. If it stretches, replace it. Hope this helps you a little bit. Also, I would take that jumper out of the fuel pump relay connector and put a fuel pump relay on it. I will see about puttin a schematic up shortly for you.

 

THE TRICKSTER COMES THRU WITH ALL THE GOOD INFO AGAIN!!!

HURRAY FOR THE TRICKSTER!!!

:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:

 

Thanks Trickster,
you da man!!!!
I will check into that right now

:hail: :hail: :hail: :hail:

 

just read one of Vader's old post's saying that if the SES light stays on, there is a fault in the system???
anyone know where to look?
still looking for the fusible link from the fog lamps

 

It's down at the starter solenoid, should be two of them going into one terminal lug. BTW, it doesn't go to the fog lamps. It goes to the fog lamps fuse on the fuse panel under the dash. Do you know how to pull up trouble codes off the ECM through the ALDL?

 

CHECK FOR A DENTED FUEL LINE OR A CLOGGED FUEL FILTER...

 

Quote:

i8myz28 CHECK FOR A DENTED FUEL LINE OR A CLOGGED FUEL FILTER...

he's not having a low fuel pressure problem but an electrical. He's not getting power to pump!!

 

Trickster,
Ok, replaced all 3 fusible links going to the starter, no change in running performance and no headlights, etc, etc,. Also the only code I have been able to throw is a 42 when I was setting the timing...
grafx,
I am having low fuel pressure , but I agree with you it's an electrical problem, fuel pump does come on with key in "ON" position but when scanning for codes it seems to come on with a little louder click then humm.

 

You are probably hearing the fuel pump relay clicking. Also have you checked all the fuses under the dash and what is the fuel pressure that you are getting. The wire that supplies power to the ACC fuse is a red wire coming off pin "G5" on connector C100 at the driver side fire wall. That same wire also supplies power to the fog lamp fuse in the fuse block. Check that fuse and see if it has power to it.

 

Trickster,
fuse panel is good except for the "LID,TAIL,ACC" fuses which are showing no power...
still working on the red wire from G5 connector at C100, that would be the large connection under the relays on drivers side, correct??

 

update,
I have 2 red wires going into the c100 connection, 1 has power and 1 does not....
and well checking fuses again I lost dash lights power to ecm fuse, inj 1 inj 2 and probably a few others.
why does my car hate me so much???

 

The other red wire is at pin "A4" of connector C100 and yes it is the big sucker under the relays. Those three fuse, "ACC", "LID", & "TAIL" get their power from pin "G5". If you are not getting power to it then you have a broken wire or a blown fusible link still

 

Trickster,
are these same 2 red wires that go to the other side of the block and down to the starter solenoid? If so I have power to both of them about half way to the front of the block under the fuel injectors on the passenger side...
If not, where does that red wire (with no power) go???? (on the passenger side)

 

Are you checking the two wires I mentioned at the firewall connector. Use a multimeter and check for voltage there by probing the pin and touching to ground. There are several other red wires that run along the passenger side, red wire from alternator to starter solenoid, ac/heater blower motor, underhood light. These run down to the starter solenoid and should have power to them and they are part of the fusible links at the solenoid. For now though, concentrate on the two I mentioned. As for why your car hates you so much. It is like a woman, always wants your attention. (I know some woman on the board is going to write in and claim I'm sexist ) BTW, I don't remember if I asked this before but have you checked all the grounds to the engine at the back of the heads?

 

Trickster,
first and foremost, you are the man, if you ever come see the space shuttle, drinks are on me!! :hail:
could you maybe post the schematic that we are talking about?
the red wire that I believe is coming from G5, where is the first connection on the firewall side? I lose it in the harness back behind the block and I would have to disconnect the entire harness to have enough slack to pull it out, or is that what should happen??
passenger side: alternator has power, a/c blower has power.
leads on the back of heads were good and tight but I will re-check them again to see if they maybe loosened up or burnt...
DUDE, you had to go there with the women thing right???
haha dont worry she is screaming a lot louder than the car!!

 

Okay, Yes I will post the schematic shortly, and a quicker way to check those wires would have been to backprobe the wires from inside the car under the dash. There is a plastic cover on the connector that pops off. BTW, was it the girlfriend or the wife?

 

Ok so if I backprobe them there wont be any power because the other side of the firewall doesnt have power...
definitely the girlfriend haha
I'm sure we have all heard it at one time or another "You spend more damn time with that car than you do me!!!"
yadda, yadda, yadda,
I keep thinking 3 grand for a boob job for her or a supercharger kit.......

yeah I will probably be single again soon

 

I don't think I want to touch the last two paragraphs here.

But anyway, yes that would be the way it would work. Then if you're not getting power there, you know which side the problem is on. If you get power there and no power at the end point, you can backtrack to the connector.

 

Hey dude I have some schematics to send you but no e-mail address. PM me with it.

 

pm sent

 

e-mail sent

 

ok trickster,
I finally got back under the car and re-wired the starter with new fusible links in have power to everything coming from the starter..
and still no change
ran a jumper wire from the battery to the 1 red wire coming from the c100 connedtion that didnt have power to see if maybe I could bypass the harness and it sparked off and started to short...
what the H.E.L.L. do I do now??
I know both of the red wires need power, 1 goes to the ignition switch and the other goes to the fuse box?
Man I couldnt find my way outta this one with a GPS???

 

Hello Mike,

Which pin on C100 did you run the jumper too and which one was not getting power. Was it pin A4 or G5?

 

Hey!!
I got it, one of the fusible link connectors was grounding out on the lower a arm. Changed it out again and wrapped the entire connection in tape and got everything back. headlights courtesy lights, and the big one ignition!!!! fired it up and and still stumbling and dies without 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. I checked the schrader valve after running it and still very little pressure. I am going to buy a gauge tomorrow to get an accurate reading, as well as a fuel filter. It's only a year old but I figure it can't hurt...
If it's not spark it must be fuel correct??





edited to add: Trickster, what is the bare minimum fuel pressure at start-up?? I have read somewhere that the car will run on 27-30 but not too well?