355, HSR, protopline 200cc heads, and a cc306 cam. 230/244 and 544/576 lift on a 112.

Ran 8.66 at 84 w/ a slipping clutch. The clutch wasn't that bad. The motor should be going 7.70's not 8.70's. Still trying to get the tune straight but I can't see myself picking up a full second in the 1/8 from a tune. I don't know even where to start.

 

I'm not sure I understand - if you have a slipping clutch and a questionable state of tune, why don't you start with them?

-B

 

I think that cam looks way to outragous for the motor! I think your heads are also way to big! What pound injectors are u running are u getting a good air/fuel mixture? are u running lean? I think you have a big problem with to much air goin through and not enough fuel to compensate. Plus ur air vilosity in ur heads may not be very high making the fuel just kind of pour into the cyclinder rather than a mist goin in! Look at all those possibities and see what happens but it really looks like a lack of proper fuel into the engine!

For the 1/8 I would have built a motor that built huge torque to get me moving and down to the finish line as fast as I could, cause u dont have much time to get goin!

I bet if u ran in the 1/4 mile u would be kind of impressed cause ur car will breathe really well up top so u would see some good gain in higher rpm.

Just my opinion as to where to start, not sayin im right or wrong just look at the big picture of what ur buildin the motor to do!

 

Could be a number of things, what's your 60' times look like? Gearing? As you mentioned, the tune and slipping clutch will hold you back. Get those squared away and tune for best mph, don't be too concerned with ETs yet.

I believe you should be able to get your car in the mid-high 7s at over 90 mph if tuned right. The CC306 is a big cam for an 1/8th mile setup, IMO. But as mentioned above it should scream up top in the quarter. You might be better suited with a comp xtreme 230/236 cam....its aggressive ramps should give you better low and mid range torque than the 306 even though duration at .050 is the same. That's the cam I'm running on my HSR 350, and coincidentally it runs 7.7s @ 90 in the 1/8th.

 

I think it's a big cam, but I woudn't call it outrageous.

When i ran the 8.70 it had stock 3.42 rear, now it has a 9" w/ 3.70's, not much difference and i'm running a 26x11.5 slick.

60' was a depressing 1.9-1.8 I used to pull a 1.85 on a 245 NITTO! I'm not any faster on slicks. >

 

I have been working with FB on the tune. We really havent had time to actually drive it around to get the tune good because we can barely get the damn thing to roll from a dead stop. On tip in the O2s plummitt (SP?). I've done quite a bit of tuning and am about to pull my hair out if I dont figure it out soon. I'm pretty much going to try one more thing and if it doesnt fix it then I'm all out of ideas. I'll be at the point where I'm going to need someone who is more expierence to look at it.....any takers :?:

 

How did you install your cam is it straight up or advanced ?
where is your base timing set?
are you getting any detonation?
does it have an idle problem?

 

The cam was installed straight up, no advance.
Base timing is at 6*
No knock count or detonation.
seems to idle happily at 1100rpm.

 

What are the blm at idle? Did you adjust the ve table? I am assuming it is going lean at tip-in? Add some timing/fuel, and check for vacuum leaks and proper tps adjustment.

 

During closed loop they are 108 at idle (way rich). Yes it is definately going lean on tip in! I'm going to try and add some timing as well as make a few adjustments mentioned in this link https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=230547 I'm hoping this will help clear things up! I also think we have a vacum leak near the FPR, but I'm sure Bird is checking into that! If anyone wants to look at a scan or bin drop me an email at poorboy08@adelphia.net

 

A CC306 doesnt have that much lift, are you running 1.6 rockers? You probably really need to do some datalogging and run your bin through VE Master a few times to get those BLM's off of 108.

 

Proper air pressure and burnout with the slicks can mean as much or more than .3 seconds. Just because you don’t think the clutch is slipping that bad doesn’t mean that it is you’re not loosing considerable time. If your ignition timing is too low at launch (you need a lot with the StealthRam), it could cost you .3 seconds or more. A/F could easily cost you .1 - .2 seconds. Plus,,, with that cam and HSR your launch rpm and technique will be TOTALLY different compared to a TPI and smaller cam. It might take you a couple trips to the track,,, but it is possible that you could shave significant time with “the perfect launch” and full clutch engagement. So assuming the worst,,, there’s a good chance you could drop more than a second in the 1/8 mile.

However,,,, say everything is not that bad off and you are driving it like you stole it,,, your first step should be a leak-down compression test to make sure everything is OK as far as combustion goes. Aside from seeing something obviously off / wrong on the car after scanning it,,, or within the first 15 – 20 minutes of plundering under the hood,,, that’s where I start with troubleshooting.

Also, with no more gear ratio increase than you made, considering the additional weight and parasitic draw from the 9” (compared to the stock rear),, it could be entirely possible you not gain any,, or lose ET from the swap. My SS slowed down right at .08 seconds (on a low 11 second ride) when I swapped the stock rear with 3.73 gears and Auburn unit with a Detroit Locker 9” with 3.90 gears. However, the 9” has held up to massive abuse and much more power for over 10 years with no problems (knock on wood).

 

Yes, I'm using 1.6 rockers.


And thanks for everyone's help.

 

After some intense thinking I have concluded a 150 shot of NOS should correct the problems you presently facing...

 

After these problems are fixed I plan to spray 300 through a direct port. A 150 shot is for stock motors.

 

Free Bird,what is your bottom end specs...using factory block?

 

4 bolt studded mains
eagle h-beam rods
JE nitrous pistons
total seal rings (gapped at 32 on first ring)
ZZ4 forged crank

 

Nothing wrong with your parts. Spend more time at the track tuning, and get the idle-part throttle tune correct first.

 

Thanks, I thought I had done all my home work before I put the motor together, but sometimes you start doubting yourself when things don't perform the way you had planned.

 

There is no doubt that this will need to be correct...but dont you think the BIG hesitation off the line should be priority? I mean its really a PITA to get the SOB moving. What bout FP, what kind of FP do you think would be suiteable for this setup? FB, what is your FP at right now, I forget?

 

Set the fuel pressure wherever you want it, mine is at 45psi. Since you are changing the ve tables, set the fuel pressure and don't touch it, or everything will be knocked out of whack.

You need to get the idle blms close to 128, then do part-throttle from there. Have you adjusted the lower ve table at idle yet?

Is your initial timing correct? A little more advance at idle will make it feel/idle better.

 

I'm going to go over a couple of scans this evening and get a chip ready to roll. I'll post up the changes that I made.