I swapped in a t-56 in my car which used to have a 700r4. When I pulled the auto out , my car was running great all around. I couldn't have asked for any better. when the t-56 went in. I could barely get the car to move off the line. it runs extremely lean until about 2500- 3000 rpms somtimes backfiring through the intake. could this be from the diferent gearing or what. Full throttle it runs ok but it seems a little slower. any ideas?

 

Maybe I have no idea what I am talking about. But did you accidentally clip any vacuum hoses, or not plug them in?

 

good thought, but all my vacuum lines are new and plugged in . that was one of the first things i checked.

 

No check engine codes?

 

Nope, not a single one

 

I am not trying to insult your ability AT ALL but are the vacuum lines going to the correct places? Just shootin some idea's out. I cant think of much else that could cause the engine to have a problem during an install like that except for vacuum lines.

 

Yep, yep , fuel regulator , map, brake booster, and cruise control. egr is gone b/c of Stealth Ram. no offense taken

 

So you only replaced the auto with a T56 and the engine runs worse? How is that possible?

I too, am having problems after an auto to manual swap, but my problem is clutch release - it's not happening...

Did you do any other mods that would affect the engine's performance? What clutch did you use?

 

Just throwing out another idea....maybe the distributor cap hit the firewall when you pulled the trans out, damaging it somehow or dislodging one of the plug wires.

 

Did you do something about the VSS hookup (i.e. SGI-5 or tailshaft mod?) If you have no VSS signal to the ECM that can cause problems off-idle, especially with an auto trans prom in a manual car. I've never seen it cause actual backfiring though.

 

thegreatj is correct. no vss signal to ecm = low rpm drivability probs.

i also agree with iroczz3, alot of people forget to remove the dist cap and crack it on the firewall when you remove the auto crossmember and the engine tilts back, i've seen that first hand.

 

couple things to try:


1. you pulled the distrib.... so you could have the plug wires on the cap wrong.

2. if you didnt pull the distrib, the cap hit the firewall. replace the cap and rotor.

3. make sure the two wires that tell the ECM its in nutural are NOT touching.. ive seen people connect the two before... if you connect them, the ECM thinks its in nutural, and you get drivability probs.
disconnect the two, tape them out of the way and presto, zero driving probs.
so simple... but people just dismiss it as "oh, its because it was a auto. "


4. what rear gears do you have? the t56 has a VERY VERY tall 1st gear. stock gearing was never numericly lower then 3.42.
if you have a 2.73 rear gear, its a bitch to drive around. esp in traffic. i know because when i did the swap, i drove it like that for a month.. it SUCKED. swap to 3.42 or better gears, and you'll wake it up alot.

 

The vss is hooked up and working properly otherwise it would have thrown an engine code. I'll check the dist cap but I don't think that is it b/c I removed my intake during the t-56 swap for a little port matching. The clutch is a SPEC stage 3. The park nuetral switch interests me the most. I just taped mine together so i could start my car without touching the wires everytime. How do I bypass that junk? use a manual electrical ignition switch?

Also I have 3.23 gears and I agree it is a biyatch to drive around sometimes. just haven't had the money for gears yet