Well, I finally got my stroker engine installed along with a Pro-Built tranny. But the engine will not start.

I have spark, the distributor is installed correctly, double and tripled checked that. #1 spark plug does fire. However, I believe that I have no fuel being delivered to the chambers. I have 58psi fuel pressure.

So what would be wrong with my stuff????????????

I tried to get the error codes, but the ECM would not flash anything, not even the 1-2 sequence. What do I check?

To get the codes, I inserted a paper clip into the two right most holes of the top row of dianostic connecter, and turned the key to the on position. Is that right?

I am referring to my '87 IROCZ in my sig.

 

Hey Doc,

Glad to see the "bighoss" is in.

Look at the fuel savings you'll be getting if you leave it as-is

I don't think I'd want to hit a new motor with starting fluid, so I think I'd pick up a noid light and see if the injectors are actually firing when you spin it over, most of the discount AP stores carry noidlights for about 10 bucks, IIRC.

 

You're on the right track. The ECM should blink 12 when you ground A to B with the ignition on. I'd look for a ground wire you for got to hook back up.

 

Where would that ground wire be?

I connected 4 ground wires to the back side of the pass head and 3 (i think) to the back side of the drvr head.

 

I just got back in from rerunning the error code test on the computer. The computer does flash 1-2,,, 1-2,,, 1-2,,, 1-2 etc.
No error codes are stored and the computer (apparently) is working OK.

So, now what do I do????

Could a wire associated with the fuel injector harness have been broken or pinched off on the back side of the motor?

 

doc,

You need to see if the injectors are getting pulsed, re: the noid light.

You can see if there is 12v on the line (if not check the fue box INJ1 and INJ2 fuses).

You should see 12v on the lines and pulse when cranking...at least the first few cranks.

You don't have something goofy with the TPS setting? I/e like 5v indicating WOT at crank RPMs?
I think you've got all the grounds covered...then again, you did clean the head surface so the connections are not "on paint"?

 

The heads are clean where the grounds are bolted on.

Do any of the wires coming from the two connectors which connect to the distributor have anything to do with the fuel injectors firing. I may have broken one wire inside the insulation of the 4 wire connector.

 

All right now, where in the heck is the fuse box on my '87?????

One would think that I would know right where it is, go figure,,, man I am so fustrated. It took seven mounths to complete this project and now I am getting no fuel.

 

Drivers side hush panel right above the brake pedal

 

Very possible, since the injectors won't fire unless there is a refernce pulse from the dizzy.

 

I am unsure of your exact Bosch injector but some do not like 58 psi. They can go static and lock with that much pressure. Can you get at the AFPR easily???? Get the car started on low 40's pressure and work from there once its running.

 

I've checked the fuses, no problem, both 10 amp fuses for the injectors are good.

I will set the fuel pressure down to 48psi and attempt another start. I have 24# SVO injectors,,, they have worked before at 56psi,,, so I dont think thats the problem but will try lower fuel pressure.

 

i had this problem and i had the dist. wire and the wire that plugs under the back plenum switched around. just a idea

 

This car is such a piece of ****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have lowered the fuel pressure to 43psi, engine will not start.

I've check the connectivity of all 4 wires on the connector on the back of the distributor, engine will not start.

The ECM flashes the 1-2 sequence and no error codes.

All ground wires are bolted to the back of each head.

I bought a noid test light for the fuel injector connector, no light,, so no pulse width being sent to the injectors.

This is just as I suspected, I am getting no fuel, but WHY!!!!!!!!!!!


I think its time to buy some dynomite and blow this car up!!!!!!!!!

 

doc,

With the key on and an injector harness unplugged, you should read 12volts on the connector to ground. If no 12v, then ohm each pin to ground, if no contiuity to ground, then suspect a broken wire/poor connection(assuming you don't have 12v).

Did you check the TPS voltage? I think we have a "clear flood state" when cranking the motor and the TPS is too high, the ECM will not pulse the injectors.

But come to think about it, you should get something to fire, since you have an '87, you have a cold start valve, which is independant completly of the ECM.

Could it be you've flooded this completly?

Pull a plug and see if it's fuel soaked, pull the dipstick and see if you're "making oil". Smell it for fuel as well.

 

Mike, thats what I left out of the last post,,, I checked the TPS voltage at closed throotle and I get 0.65V.

Someone asked me if the distributor has voltage. Well, I dont know. How do I check if the distributor is getting voltage?

Also, if I'm low on oil, will the injectors pulse? Because I put in 5 quarts, but I have a 6 to 7 quart oil pan with an oil cooler.
So do I need oil pressure for the engine to get fuel?

About the key on and have 12V at the fuel injector connector: I assume this is from one of the two pins in the connector and ground. Is that right?

BTW: I installed a SuperRam intended for an '88 car, so I do not have the ninth injector anymore. I simply compensate by adding more fuel at startup via a new Eprom chip. I've been running the '88 SuperRam for several years with no related problems.

 

I have more info:

Both terminals on the #1 injector harness have 12.5V with key on.

Both terminals of the 2 wire connector on the back side of the dizzy have 12.5V with key on.

The purple/white wire in the 4 wire connector at the dizzy does not have power with key on. If fact, none of the wires in this 4 wire connector have power with key on.

Is this my problem???? And if yes, then what do I do about it?

Can I run my own 4 wire loom from the ECM?

The purple/white wire apparently connects to the B5 at the ECM.
Should I replace just this one wire?

 

IT LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The final test that I ran was to connect a noid light to #1 injector harness, and connect a test light from positive battery to the purple/white wire at the dizzy with the key on. If the noid light flashes as I connect from battery to P/W wire, then the dizzy module is bad. So I replaced my MSD pro-built dizzy (part #8366)with my factory original 1987 dizzy and the engine fired right up.

Can you believe it!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

A few Posts back it was:
and
So what's it going to be the next it lets you down? cause there'll always be a next time.

 

Good deal.

 

I want to thank everyone who helped with suggestions above, I really appreciate. 8mike9, razor, greenfrogg thankyou. There are 10 to 15 guys on thirdgen that I really respect for their knowledge and willingness to help.

As far as the other guy is concern, OK I was venting. Cant I vent a bit on here?

 

Venting is good.
Can't argue with that.