Modifying TPI fuel rail hard lines?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,926
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From: Tucson, Arizona USA
Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
Modifying TPI fuel rail hard lines?
Has anyone cut the hard lines off and modified the fuel rail to tap fittings for braided lines? Aren't these lines press fit into the aluminum rail? Can they be removed easily?
Willie
Willie
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,926
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From: Tucson, Arizona USA
Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
My preference is not to buy adapters to fit into the existing hard fuel line ends (16 & 14mm) but to remove the hard lines and tap into the fuel rail. This would result in a much cleaner look.
Willie
Willie
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,926
Likes: 5
From: Tucson, Arizona USA
Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
That's it! Chris, what are the specs on the fittings, including the red plug in the front?
Willie
Willie
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
Likes: 125
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by Willie
That's it! Chris, what are the specs on the fittings, including the red plug in the front?
Willie
That's it! Chris, what are the specs on the fittings, including the red plug in the front?
Willie
-- Joe
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 2,926
Likes: 5
From: Tucson, Arizona USA
Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
The issue here is I don't know what to expect once I start drilling. Are the end caps simply plugs and if so, they look kind of large. Once drilled out, is there enough material left to tap threads? If not, what then? I just don't want to mess up a perfectly good fuel rail.
I'm going to contact Street & Performance. They work on these all the time from what I understand.
Willie
I'm going to contact Street & Performance. They work on these all the time from what I understand.
Willie
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
Likes: 125
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
Originally posted by Willie
The issue here is I don't know what to expect once I start drilling. Are the end caps simply plugs and if so, they look kind of large. Once drilled out, is there enough material left to tap threads? If not, what then? I just don't want to mess up a perfectly good fuel rail.
I'm going to contact Street & Performance. They work on these all the time from what I understand.
Willie
The issue here is I don't know what to expect once I start drilling. Are the end caps simply plugs and if so, they look kind of large. Once drilled out, is there enough material left to tap threads? If not, what then? I just don't want to mess up a perfectly good fuel rail.
I'm going to contact Street & Performance. They work on these all the time from what I understand.
Willie
Good luck though!
-- Joe
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Willie can you Tig weld?
I know this is for LT1 fuel rails but Just apply the same to your stock rails with the fittings.
http://gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0409htp_snow/
I know this is for LT1 fuel rails but Just apply the same to your stock rails with the fittings.
http://gmhightechperformance.com/tech/0409htp_snow/
Once I had the fuel line cut off, I squared the fuel rail up against the disc on my belt/disc sander and sanded on it until I had removed about .125 inches. Only remove as much material required to remove the rest of the steel line and get a flush surface for welding. Once you get the line out you can sand down the threads on the large diameter of the reducer fitting until it fits inside the fuel rail. While a lathe and a mill would have been nice for these operations, a belt sander will get the job done.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
What you could do is take a fuel rail from a car that has the cold start injector and put your fitting there, then plug the original fitting. Just a thought!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I have a couple rails laying around, I'll see what I can do with them if anything. I think that end piece is just a flat cap/plug with an o-ring or press fit thing of some sort. I'd imagine below that is just a hole of constant diameter, because from the way they'd have to machine it there wouldnt be any reason to do anything else.
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