Pinging in upper RPMs (huge power loss)
#1
Pinging in upper RPMs (huge power loss)
'91 LB9 5spd. Paxton SN92 supercharger running about 7lbs of boost. Stock internals. Usual bolt ons (full exhaust, ported polished intake, crane 1.6 full rollers etc etc etc)
Was running great until earlier this year. Pining in the upper RPMs during WOT now. Fuel pressure (AFPR) is at 42lbs@idle on 24#svo injectors.
Any ideas? Should I disable knock sensor with a resistor?
Thanks
Was running great until earlier this year. Pining in the upper RPMs during WOT now. Fuel pressure (AFPR) is at 42lbs@idle on 24#svo injectors.
Any ideas? Should I disable knock sensor with a resistor?
Thanks
Last edited by Dissolve; 10-30-2004 at 01:33 PM.
#2
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Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
Who did your tuning?
If it's only at higher RPM, under load, I'd say it sounds like fuel starvation. Tape your fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and see what it reads when you get the ping. Idle pressure looks good, but the pump's volume may be down. If it's a little low when you get the ping, it may just be a dirty fuel filter. If it's badly low, then it's tank-pullin' time.
Don't disable your knock sensor. It's what tells the computer to retard the timing to keep you from blowing holes in your pistons.
If it's only at higher RPM, under load, I'd say it sounds like fuel starvation. Tape your fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and see what it reads when you get the ping. Idle pressure looks good, but the pump's volume may be down. If it's a little low when you get the ping, it may just be a dirty fuel filter. If it's badly low, then it's tank-pullin' time.
Don't disable your knock sensor. It's what tells the computer to retard the timing to keep you from blowing holes in your pistons.
#3
Fuel pressure gauge shows steady increase in pressure as throttle increases. I have a FP gauge in cockpit. Never pinged before on 42#s of fuel pressure. That is the baffling thing. Ran 42#s in all temperature conditions for years, no problems.....until now
I used a resistor to disable my knock sensor before. You need to sometimes because of all the damn drivetrain noise my 1.6 rollers make. I put it back on when I went blown
I used a resistor to disable my knock sensor before. You need to sometimes because of all the damn drivetrain noise my 1.6 rollers make. I put it back on when I went blown
#4
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Car: 1989 GTA Nighthawk
Engine: 389 CID TPI
Transmission: TCI 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23
IF you truly are not having a fuel supply problem you probably have some carbon buildup on top of your pistons due to low quality gas. That means even high octane no name gas. You will have to get it out, many differnt ways to do it. I'd try loading up the tank with Techron first, if that doesn't work some water or tranny fluid into the throttle blades will knock it out. Though I've never tried it on a FI car, just carbs.
Bad on me, check the total spark advance as well. You'll need a dial back timing light to do it.
Fuel first, timing second, carbon third. I'm also assuming it's not getting too hot. What kind of plugs? Did you try going colder?
Bad on me, check the total spark advance as well. You'll need a dial back timing light to do it.
Fuel first, timing second, carbon third. I'm also assuming it's not getting too hot. What kind of plugs? Did you try going colder?
Last edited by 89Warbird; 10-30-2004 at 10:27 PM.
#5
Originally posted by 89Warbird
IF you truly are not having a fuel supply problem you probably have some carbon buildup on top of your pistons due to low quality gas. That means even high octane no name gas. You will have to get it out, many differnt ways to do it. I'd try loading up the tank with Techron first, if that doesn't work some water or tranny fluid into the throttle blades will knock it out. Though I've never tried it on a FI car, just carbs.
Bad on me, check the total spark advance as well. You'll need a dial back timing light to do it.
Fuel first, timing second, carbon third. I'm also assuming it's not getting too hot. What kind of plugs? Did you try going colder?
IF you truly are not having a fuel supply problem you probably have some carbon buildup on top of your pistons due to low quality gas. That means even high octane no name gas. You will have to get it out, many differnt ways to do it. I'd try loading up the tank with Techron first, if that doesn't work some water or tranny fluid into the throttle blades will knock it out. Though I've never tried it on a FI car, just carbs.
Bad on me, check the total spark advance as well. You'll need a dial back timing light to do it.
Fuel first, timing second, carbon third. I'm also assuming it's not getting too hot. What kind of plugs? Did you try going colder?
Timing is at stock as per Ed Wright's recommendation to run with his FastChip
Plugs are AC DELCOs running 2 stages colder
#6
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Car: 1989 GTA Nighthawk
Engine: 389 CID TPI
Transmission: TCI 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23
You still need to check the total timing advance and that can only be done with a dial back timing light. Did this start with a new chip?
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#8
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Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Stock timing is 6*BTDC.
Still as said above you NEED to get the total advance at WOT to see if it is advancing properly. Base timing is great to have in spec, but if your car idles fine and only pings in the top, then you have an issue at WOT, not idle.
With 130k, carbon deposits could very well be the culprit, even with high-quality gas. Use a spray bottle to spray some water into the throttle body while the car is running until you see black crap dripping out of the exhaust tips. That's the carbon getting blown out of the cyls.
Still as said above you NEED to get the total advance at WOT to see if it is advancing properly. Base timing is great to have in spec, but if your car idles fine and only pings in the top, then you have an issue at WOT, not idle.
With 130k, carbon deposits could very well be the culprit, even with high-quality gas. Use a spray bottle to spray some water into the throttle body while the car is running until you see black crap dripping out of the exhaust tips. That's the carbon getting blown out of the cyls.
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Car: 1989 GTA Nighthawk
Engine: 389 CID TPI
Transmission: TCI 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23
Tom3 may be on to something, what RPM is it occuring at? Does it fall flat on it's face?
Also, all advance should be in by 3000 rpm, but you don't have to be at WOT to check it, just run the RPM up and see what you get.
Also, all advance should be in by 3000 rpm, but you don't have to be at WOT to check it, just run the RPM up and see what you get.
#12
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Car: '87 IROCZ
Engine: 395 ZZ4
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.70s
If nothing has been changed on the car or engine, then the root cause would be something that changes with time, like carbon build-up and weak valve springs. Also, spark plugs can change with time, as well as fuel injectors. Concentrate on these issues.
Pull the plugs and check them, do a compression check with leak down. run top end carbon cleaner, use fuel injector cleaner,etc.
How about the fuel filter?
Pull the plugs and check them, do a compression check with leak down. run top end carbon cleaner, use fuel injector cleaner,etc.
How about the fuel filter?
#13
Thanks for the great suggestions. Been so busy at work havent been able to check the board.
The blower redline is before 5k. So I always shift like around 4800 which is well before redline. Car has stock cam but does have 1.6 full rollers. Going to try a few of the other suggestions.
The blower redline is before 5k. So I always shift like around 4800 which is well before redline. Car has stock cam but does have 1.6 full rollers. Going to try a few of the other suggestions.
#14
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by DuronClocker
Stock timing is 6*BTDC.
Still as said above you NEED to get the total advance at WOT to see if it is advancing properly. Base timing is great to have in spec, but if your car idles fine and only pings in the top, then you have an issue at WOT, not idle.
With 130k, carbon deposits could very well be the culprit, even with high-quality gas. Use a spray bottle to spray some water into the throttle body while the car is running until you see black crap dripping out of the exhaust tips. That's the carbon getting blown out of the cyls.
Stock timing is 6*BTDC.
Still as said above you NEED to get the total advance at WOT to see if it is advancing properly. Base timing is great to have in spec, but if your car idles fine and only pings in the top, then you have an issue at WOT, not idle.
With 130k, carbon deposits could very well be the culprit, even with high-quality gas. Use a spray bottle to spray some water into the throttle body while the car is running until you see black crap dripping out of the exhaust tips. That's the carbon getting blown out of the cyls.
How are you suppose to spray water into the plenum if the thing will not idle with the MAF not hooked up?
#15
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Car: 1997 Corvette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73 IRS
Mine will idle at least a little bit. Disconnect the electrical sensor and it should run in limp-home. If it wants to die, give it a little bit of throttle (just a little) and spray the water in.
#16
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Car: 88GTAnotchbac/91 -Z/66 Chevelle
Engine: All strokers
Transmission: Pro built 700r4's
Are running an inline pump as well as the factory pump..
When your chip was burned was it burned with the supercharger spec'd into the advance equation.
When your chip was burned was it burned with the supercharger spec'd into the advance equation.
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