Guys,

Running this Lingenfelter Cam with a Superram intake on a L98 355. I was wondering what kind of vacuum you are getting? also wondering what kind of drivability you are getting? My car likes to bounce around like a dragster at red lights. Is anyone having the same condition?

 

I have the same combo with SLP headers and Edelbrock heads. Vacuum at idle is 16 -18 inches. Idle has a noticeable lope but not unbearable. Driveability is good.

 

I have edelbrock heads and SLP headers too... what is your base timing at? Who did your chip? Did you ever have vacuum issues? I don't have any leaks...

 

Base timing is 8 degrees. No vacuum leak problems at all. The secret to that is careful assembly and following the instructions. I am running the aftermarket Accel 6.0 computer so no chip burning was necessary.

 

Cool, thanks for the info. I am going to change my timing to 8 as well, at 6 now. I am working with a chip guy to perfect the tune as well. One question, did you play around with your program to attain a good idle? Any program settings help vs. others?

 

Did you ever have any Code 33 issues?

 

I run that cam in my 91 with SD. It runs like crap sometimes, but I still have some tuning issues to get sorted out. Once you are properly tuned, the car should run extremely smooth! Sometimes at a red light when the car is running good, it almost sounds stock.

 

Damb, If you say that it almost runs stock then that gives me some hope. Mine is lumpy as hell. Do you have any tuning tricks that helped you?

 

To tell you the truth, I had faster prom burn me a chip. We still have some work to do next summer, but they know there stuff. For a mail order chip, I am impressed.

 

I am suspecting a distributor problem. The only stock 1987 part I am running now is the distributor. I adjusted my timing the other day and it was jumping up and down 2degrees. Might be part of my rough idle problem.

 

Hey, I just noticed you have a formato chip aswell. How was your tune for the first chip they sent you?

 

what type of time do you get outa that combo 219/SR/AFR180s

 

My first chip had issues. I am currently on my 4th chip from them. We are working out some bugs. Formatos fixed my code 33 problem but still having some stalling when shifting from Park to reverse. Jeremy is playing with the IAC tables to fix this. If you are having issues, don't hesitate to have them burn more chips for you. You paid your money, if it doesn't work correctlythey will help to get it right. What I have doe to help them see what is going on, I have bought a ALDL cable from Craig Moetes and downloaded TunerProRT (free). Then I record the car idling and download it to an Excel sheet. I then email the spreadsheet to show them how the car is running. Takes alot of guessing out of the tuning process.

 

Ever since I installed the suprram I have had the same problem. On my 350 and 383 same thing. It also likes to die if I rev it up. It comes down and dies. At that time when it died we looked at the IAC counts and it was Maxed out meaning it was trying to compensate but was not enough. I have heard that the solution may be in the MAF tables.

 

It's funny because I was going to quote exactly what Mkos just did. Mine dies going into reverse as well. I usually put a foot on the gas and the brake at the same time to keep it from stalling.lol I have also gotten 3 chips from them, and there is still much work to be done. I do have to say that they are extremely helpful though!

 

Winnipeg GTA, I have run a best of 13.2 to this point. I have major traction issues though!! The car gained 4-5mph in the traps going from my first prom to my second, due to a lean issue I had at first. Now the car is too rich, so I think in the end it will trap 109mph. I would say it is a mid 12 second car with traction.

 

Funny, we are all revealing the same problems to each other. I wish some people that solved these problems would jump in and tell us how they did it.

The Formatos are trying to figure it out for me so I will keep you guys posted. Unfortunatly, it is a big guessing game at this point and very frustrating.

 

I would recommend to get back to basics,

1) do the idle air procedure, but set the RPM at 650 RPM (not the 450 RPM called out in the procedure).

2) Set the static timing to 6 or 8 degrees, remember to disconnect the EST wire. You can NOT set the static timing without disconnecting the EST wire.

3) set the TPS to .60V.

If the above is done correctly and the engine hunts for idle, then you have a vacuum leak.

Also, the cams LSA has alot to do with the lope. LSA of 114* or higher are very ECM friendly. These cams should always have a smooth idle. LSA of 112* is still ECM friendly enough, might get a bit of lopyness. LSA of 110* or lower are difficult to get to idle nicely with the ECM, custom chips help alot here.

Of course, if you have done alot of engine mods, then a custom chip will get you the max at of your system.

I strongly urge that you guys learn how to 'burn' your own chips. Costs about $200 to $250.

Another also, your car can NOT be properly tuned thru the mail.

 

Thanks for info.

About tuning through mail, I agree to a point. I do own all chip burning gear from Craig Moetes and use TunerProRT. I am sending my dataloging spreadsheets to my Tunerguy via email. He is then making changes from there. My master plan is to get my cars tune "ruffed" in and tweak the chip myself from there. I am new to chip burning so I was hesitant to jump right in. My car has major tuning problems. I was getting code 33/bogging, shifting from Park to reverse causes stalling, Hot starts take 1-2 turns of the key, IAC counts were 0 and I had to have the idle set screw all the way out to attain idle. My tuner guy fixed everything except: Stalling and Hot starts. we are still working on that. Any input on those issues?

 

Comments on your last post, Jack,

If you do the idle air procedure, setting the RPM at 650 RPM, by doing this you are requireing the IAC to screw out enough to make up another 750 RPM (or whatever the ECM commanded idle RPM is set at in the chip). This is what I did with my 395, my IAC is at 6 to 10 now at warm idle. Remember, when you set the idle air, the IAC is disconnected and is fully closed, not allowing any air past the TB plates.

Hot starts 1 -2 turns of key: You have either too much gas or not enough. Look for the cranking PW vs coolant temp table. Changing this table at the appropriate temps will solve this problem. It worked for me, I had the same problem with my 395.

Shifting park to reverse stalling: Again there is a table which effects the RPM dependent where the shifter is. Also, this stalling might be a lazy IAC. It may not be able to react fast enough to maintain the commanded RPM.

I hope this helps. The overall tuning issue is complicated. What I try to do is to look at one issue at a time. Burn a chip and check it out. Like I said in another post, I've burned about 30 chips for my 395.

 

Doc,

I have done the base idle set procedure a million times, I'm cool there.

As for when you said: "Shifting park to reverse stalling: Again there is a table which effects the RPM dependent where the shifter is." When you get a chance can you check to see exactly what that table is called. I am looking at TunerProRT now (at work) and I'm not sure of the one your talking about.

 

I am at work also, my tuner stuff is at home. I use TunerCat. So my table might be called something different than your tuning software.

I'll get back to you later tonite.

 

Oops, there is no one table for your stalling problem when shifting from park to reverse.

I use TunerCat, so my tables may be labeled different than your tuner, and your tuner might have tables that TunerCat does not show.

In my "constants table" there is a parameter labeled "idle speed adder in park/nuetral'. I got this at 50 RPM. My ECM commanded RPM for a fully warmed up engine is 850 RPM.

Also, I think the IAC park position is important here, because when you shift to reverse, it is like adding a brake to the engine, so to maintain RPM, the IAC must turn out adding air pass the TB plates. Based on this the table labelled 'IAC park (steps) vs coolant temp" is important. At 80*C, I have 20 steps.

And also, it might make a big difference, either the ECM is in open loop or closed loop when you shft from park to reverse. Most of the time, I would assume that you would be in open loop mode.

BTW: at what RPM did you set the engine at when doing the minimum idle air procedure?

 

Like 1000 rpm. which is where the engine really smoothed out when in Park. That's probably to high, right? My ECM rpm is at 900.

 

Wow, 1000rpm is way to high. I have not set the idle since the rebuild so I think I am gonna try that.

Jack..I idle at 825-850 once I'm at opreating temp. I am glad to get some more info on this. I must say I built most of the motor myself, but I have never tuned anything before. I have only gotten as far as reading the scanner and relaying info to faster prom(Formato).

Doc--If my chip is set to idle at 800rpm, what should I set the idle at using the procedure??

 

Make sure you do minimum idle procedure and reset TPS. Once you adjust the idle screw it changes the TPS setting.

 

Thanks jack, I've reset min. idle before, but not since the new engine. My tps is self adjusting (I think all of the 90-92 MAP cars are) but I still Adjust it anyway.
I am suprised that formato would set your idle at 900 and mine at 800. Or was the idle bumped up when you told them you were having problems?? Don't meen to ask so many questions, I am just trying to get as much info as possible. Also, what are you BLM's at Idle and WOT??

Thanks

 

Actually, my idle is set at 875 (my mistake). I wouldn't worry about that to much, every car is different. I plan on playing with chip burning after we can solve my other issues so that might change.

My BLMs were dead on at 128 and my Target AFR was at 13.19 which Jeremy said was almost perfect (he likes to see as close to 13.3 as possible) WOT for me isn't an issue at this time. The stalling and sarting issues are.

Don't worry about asking to many questions, I have been bothering people about this stuff for a long time. I stop asking when they stop answering. I just got off the phone with Jeremy and he is sending out another chip today.

Did you ever buy the chip burning gear? You would be surprised how cheap it is. I bought all my stuff for about $150 (give or take). Also have a ZIF socket that allows you to pull the chips with moving a little lever rather than prying it out. Cool stuff. Craig Moaetes is the man. He is an Engineer and makes all this stuff as a side job. The software is free.

 

I am kind of doing what you are, trying to get a rough baseline chip for now, then working off of that. I am buying a blower(procharger) so I am going to have to learn to burn! I tried buying the equipment from a guy here in Canada to save all the hasstle, but he keeps delaying the proccess. Guess I will take the same path you did, sounds like a great price! Please keep me posted, as I will you. This could get interesting.

It sucks because the car parked for the winter, so I can't do any tuning until spring now.

 

I am in Buffalo and we are expecting snow any time now. I usually keep my car in my brothers barn for the winter but this year I am keeping it home in my garage trying to work out this tuning stuff. I wasted the whole summer rebuilding the motor and installing it. I hope to figure this stuff out so I can actually enjoy the car this upcoming summer. It is mostly a cruise night car. Most everything under the hood has been machined and polished including my superram, valve covers, alternator, etc. Rather be standing next to the car drinking beer and shoot'n the $hit with other car enthusiasts than turning wrench all day.

 

I have the same views as you really. I wanted a reliable, streatable combo that I could deal with. I actually have the car all sanded and ready for paint. i go to the track a couple times a year, and upset a couple C5 vettes on the street this year. For the most part though, the car is in the garage. I drove it about 1-2 times a week this year.