so i converted my l03 to tpi and when I went to check the timing it was like 3 inches to the left of the timing marker and when the esc wire was plugged in I was getting SES light but the car would always start and run real rough puffing lots of black smoke. well I pulled the timing back to 6* advance and the car started actually puffing white smoke like it should when it is 31* outside. oddly enough the SES light went off with the esc wire still unplugged. after I retighted the dist. clamp and started the car again to recheck base timing the car barely would run unless you gave it throttle. if you let off it would stall out. so I turned the dist back to about where I started and was able to get it running idling and got my SES light back, but when I brought it back to 6* advance it would stall back out. in fact the closest to normal timing I can still keep it idling at is the far left edge of the timing marker. when you plug the esc wire back in I lose my SES light now but it stalls out if you let off the throttle. I will mention that the car was not at operating temp (only a tick above 100 mark) when I did this. but I thought base timing was the same no matter what the temp is outside. so I ask you what the heck is going on here? I can't get tunerpro going right now to read the code that comes up when it stalls so I am relying on you guys to have some ideas.

 

Are the plug wires 1 position off or possibly the dizzy is 1 tooth off? recheck the position of the rotor straight up at TDC.
I've had that happen before with the dizzy advanced so far it wasn't noticed until I really checked into it. Kind of a simple thing that can really make you wonder. We all had those.

Edit: And if you have one of those fancy timing lights with the advance **** on the back, make sure it was st at "0" when you made the readings. Don't ask me how I know.

 

if you could please elaborate on this dizzy thing.

edit: when you say dizzy assume you mean the dist. but even if I missed by tooth wouldn't I be able to get the correct timing back by turning the dist.?

 

If your reading the wrong plug wire because of the shift in positions it will look very funny and your not seeing what you think you are.
( Dizzy yes, it takes to long to type distributor)
Something to check anyway, I've done it before and confused myself after swapping it out.
The best thing is to recheck that the rotor is pointing at the No 1 position at TDC. Just to be sure.

 

so let's assume I am off by a tooth, this would mean that I am prob. ahead one tooth which would cause 0* to be "moved up" to say somewhere around 15* or so right? because the car will idle on its own right around there and I don't get the SES light when I plug the ESC wire back in.

 

ok so you added tpi....

did you hook up the egr sylenoid? if that is off it iwll run just like you said real ruff no idle you;ll mess with timing for evere and never get it to run right.

egr syl is on the pass side rear of intake funnt looking plastic thing

 

the egr solenoid is hooked up correctly I think but I will check it. tommorrow I will put the dist. 1 tooth back and see what happens. anyone else have any other insight on what else could be wrong?

 

Don't just move it to try it. Turn the motor until its at TDC and take off the cap. Check to see if the rotor is pointing to the correct location. If not, then move it.

 

how do you get the engine to top dead center? do I just manually turn the crank until the mark is at 0* on that marker?

 

did you change balancers or timing covers when you changed over? When I put the l98 long block in place of my l03 I put a new balancer on (for the 350) and the mark was then in the wrong place for my l03 timing cover marks. I had to get an aftermarket timing tab and set it up with that to get the timing right.

 

Good point Travlinman, I didn't even consider that possibility.
The easiest way that I do it is to take out the no# 1 spark plug (unplug all the connectors from the distibutor) and have somone bump crank the motor around until you hear or can feel the air compress and push out of the spark plug hole. Line up the timing mark to the line at that point. Pull off the dist. cap and look where the rotor is lining up.
Looking at the disributor from the front of the car, the rotor should be about 4 O' clock position pointing to number 1 plug wire. If it seems far off then pull it out and drop it back in.
Hope that helps.
Jp