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Yes from the bottom for those circled in blue. Usually a 6mm would work for the other but if not. I'm unsure if they make a 5.5 MM. one.

 

My '89 version of the SuperRam came with 12 pt 3/8" screws.

You should go out and by a racheting wrench of this size. It will save you hours of fustrasion later on.

 

SORRY, I just checked this out,

Its a 1/4" 12 pt wrench that works.

 

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To the best of my knowledge, there are 4 small bolts for each pair of runners, in thru the bottom into the plenum. That means there are 16 total bolts to remove from the bottom. Of course, you have to remove the TB stuff at the front. Then, if the plenum does not come off easily, maybe the plenum/runners have a sealant an the gaskets.

Also, my plenum has the air temp sensor screwed into the bottom side with a connector, dont rip out the connector as you lift the plenum, raise the plenum just enough to view the sensor and connector and disconnect.

These SRs are a PITA to remove and install. Take your time to figure things out.

 

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I am about 99.99% sure that there are 4 bolts per pair. Your setup seems to have been changed from mine. The 16 plenum/runner bolts go into the bottom and screw into the plenum. There are no nuts on my setup. If you can take a bolt out from the top, then do it.

But look hard for 4 bolts per pair of runners, that's 8 per side. There should be 4 near the middle, and 12 along the perimeter.

 

From your picture, the top left pair of runners (air tubes) have 4 bolts, they are the top one of the two in the red circle and the top 3 blue circles. If this picture is taken from the front of the car, then this pair of runners that I am refering to are located over #6 cylinder, but are the air shafts for #5 and #7 (I think).

You have two SR castings for the runners, each having two pair of runners in each casting. For each side by side air tubes (which I have been calling "pair of runners") there are 4 bolts connecting the runner casting to the plenum. Since, each side by side air tubes have 4 bolts, there are 8 bolts per casting.

I just went down to my car to confirm this.

 

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Done this a million times. Don't touch your runners. At the end of the fuel rails you will see some screws (torx i think). The cylinder shape rod that holds the fuel rail together. You can take the fuel rail apart and sneak it out. Much easier. Just check your O rings to make sure they are good. If not replace.

If you atempt a runner removal, you will need to pull valve covers. If you use a big Allen key with the "round swivel end" you will not have to remove a rocker arm. Got the Allen set from Auto zone.

One last thing. The last guy that had your car was a genius. Relacing those inner screws with a nut and bolt combo is awesome. I did it myself and it saves a ton of time and frustration (swearing too).

 

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Jack,

Whats even better than a bolt and nut combo for the 4 inner bolts, is the advice I got here to drill & tap the runner and drill out the plenum. The bolt will now thread into the runner from the top side, but use plenty of thread locker. A nut could be added on the bottom side for more assurance.

 

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Not sure where you got those injectors or if they will work. I got a set of 24lb. Excels that look like the stock ones. They work good and are cheap. Got them from Jegs. If you think they might not work, you might want get some new ones cuz if you find that they don't work, your gonna have to pull that intake again. And that sucks.

 

One more thing, When you put the nut and bolts back on your Plenum use a lot of RTV so you don't have vacuum issues.

 

Hey Doc, check out my post: 74219 Cam Owners within. can you provide us any insight to our problems?

 

IMO I wouldn't use a nut and bolt combo only because the whole idea of threading the plenum for the screws is so that there is never any chance that something can come loose and finds its way into the motor. I know this setup is a bitch to put together, but after a couple of times I just decided to take all my screws that thread from under the plenum and cut slots on the ends of them for a small flathead to fit. Just stick the screw into the holes as normal but take the small flathead screw driver and tighten by turning counter clockwise from inside the plenum. I works real well and saves time without nuts/bolts. Just my 2 cents.

 

I don't know if anyone answered this for you yet, but as long as you have a smooth machined surface in the bore where the injectors sit, and the o-ring seals against the side of this bore all the way around, it should work fine - to seal. However, the height issue might affect where the injector nozzle sits in relation to the intake port. I would check that to make sure the nozzle isn't sitting up inside the injector "bung", which would cause spray pattern issues. I don't have any experience with this setup so I'm just suggesting some things that came to mind when I read your post.

 

Another hint on the SR - turn your injectors around 180 degress so the electrical connectors are pointing towards the middle fo the motor. Then run the injector harness under the plenum. Not only does it look "cleaner", but if you ever have to pull the fuel rail again it's much easier!!! (the injector connector is what causes most of the interference in getting the fuel rail out).

For what it's worth - I like the way mine was drilled out and the runners tapped for the bolts to go down from inside the plenum. You just have to be careful to not drop one down a runner. Stuufing clean shop rags into the runners can help avoid a problem in this area too.....