I might be interested in purchasing a 1991 Trans Am GTA and it has a 350 TPI and was wondering if its a good engine and even a good car to have because ive heard people say that the GTA is not meant to be raced on or something like that but the condition on the car is it has a Mint Body Mint Interior Nice Paint it has 106,000 miles and its probs are it needs brake work cause it pulls to the left and the engine smokes a little bit... if anyone has idea on how to fix these problems or whats causing them that be cool and if it doesnt have any of its GTA decals on it where can I get replacements. The guy said the price is down to 3,000 obo and he said whatever is offered might take the car so... what price should i offer and is the car even worth modding out and etc?

heres the car thanks

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.js...or=&cardist=93

 

Let's take each one of those issues at a time.

The GTA can be raced just like any other thirdgen, in fact the suspension is great for autocross.
The brakes can be fixed at any repair shop but be advised that the GTA brakes are different than some other f-body and it might cost more, specially the rear brakes because of the caliper being different. If the car pulls to the left it might not be the brakes but instead the suspension.
The smoking engine at startup is caused by bad valve seals which can be fixed easily by a repair shop or yourself.
The GTA has emblems, not decals. They can be bought from Pontiworld in Australia, their website is http://www.pontiworld.com.au/ (their emblems are GM certified)
And last but not least the price, the $3K price is good if it is in good condition as you say it is. But if you are buying it thinking it is a GTA then be sure to authenticate it by visiting the GTA Source Page's authentication page located here: http://www.gtasourcepage.com/Authentication.html

Good luck,
-Ozzy

 

Pulling usually indicates a bad caliper on the front. Figure a couple hundred to have it repalced professionally. If you elect to DIY I'm not sure what the caliper costs. Standard 3rd gen fronts are about $11 with a core charge for the old one. Then you have to bleed the brakes, but on a car that old it should be completely bled through with fresh fluid anyway.

If the engine smokes on startup and only occasionally the valve seals are bad. No big deal. The parts cost about $20, and professional installtion is about a couple hundred bucks. If you elect to DIY you need a valvespring compressor and some way to hold the valve up. Air is a good method, but there are others like the old rope method.

If the engine smokes all the time then the rings are bad, and this is costly. The motor would need a rebuild to corrct this. A compression and leakdown test could easily tell you if this is the problem or not.

$3k still isn't bad, but be smart. Use the car's defects to bring the price down. Tell the seller "Well, the brakes are going to cost me about $150, the engine'll be about $250, and the emblems are another $100, and that's the obvious stuff. How's $2,000 cash?" Then bargain from there.

 

1500 Cash and bargain up from there.

None of the problems you described are serious.
It sounds like a great car to start learning on.

SOON as you get it, head down to the auto parts place and buy a service manual on it. Start reading it.. stop watching TV and read the manual. Skip around in it to parts you find interesting.
Read it and study it. If you find this stuff to be fascinating and fun then you'll make a fine gearhead like the rest of us.


If you don't like it or it's just not your 'cup of tea' seriously consider paying someone to do the work and start saving for a newer vehicle that doesn't need work.

Good luck with it.

 

what are some signs i can tell the car is a real GTA? it has a stock 350 tpi but what are other signs i can tell its real i looked at the gta source page but that didnt tell me what i really needed to know i just want to know like physical ways to tell its authenticity but i do know it has lumbar seats

 

The car in the picture is a GTA. The mesh wheels and ground effexs are the way to tell.

 

Well,i dont see any gta emblems on it.Could be a trans am.Only way to tell is too look at the rpos.If it has Y84 then it a real gta.

 

where on the car can i find the RPO code... is it in the VIN Number or somewhere else on the car... also i found a 88 GTA for 5,000 and was wondering which really is the better car a 1991 or 1988?

 

I would go with the newer,unless you like the 85-90 body style better.The 91s i have heard were built a little better and you get speed density which alot of people on here like more.Also whats the mileage on the cars?I thinks its really a matter of personal preference.

 

RPO codes are on a white sticker inside the console armrest storage compartment. 3rd gens don't have a glove box, so this is where GM decided to stick them.

I would definately get the newer car, especially if the price is the same, or more for the older car. The '91 will have stronger 28-spline axels. Speed density EFI, which is much better than the older MAF systems and doesn't use that expensive MAF ($300 at the dealer). The 700R4 only got better with time, and the '91 would be a better trans than the '88. Overall you're a lot better with the '91, even if it needs a little work.

 

On my 91 Formula the RPO codes sticker was inside the little lockable compartment in the rear - the one on the drivers side just ahead of the tail lights....

 

ok lol i know this is prolly gettin old but im still in the process of searchin for my new f-body and yeah i came across a 1989 IROC-Z in black with t tops leather with a 350 V8 and this is the only downsides are it has 141,000 miles needs drivers seat recovered and they want 4,995 for it? it that a reasonable deal? i looked up KBB value and thats what they sat at on it but is that worth it i mean how long would the car last with all those miles? and how much would a 350 tpi rebuild be?

 

Given proper service intervals the 350 TPI should easily be a 250,000 mile motor. As long as it runs smooth and strong, and doesn't puff any smoke I'd say you were in business. EFI engines last a lot longer than their carbureted brethren. Better mixture control keeps overly rich mixtures from washign the oil film off the cylinder walls, which is what eventually leads to an engine wearing out. '89 will also have a roller cam, which lasts almost indefinately since there is basically no friction to wear down the lobes or the lifter feet like a flat tappet cam.

IMO KBB values are much higher than market price. What should really determine the price of a car is the condition its in, and how much you like it. If you can afford it should also factor in. IMO nearly 5K for that car is too high. I would use the mileage and whatever defects you can find to bring down the price. I've also always found that a seller is much more likely to take much less than the asking price for the car when you wave a wad of Ben Franklins in his face. Cash is king.

It sounds like you're going about this the right way though. Buy a car you can drive that only needs a few cosmetic or minor mechanical things fixed. You'll pay more initially, but over the long run you'll save thousands.