I don't know whats causing this.

Purchased new battery/alternator during Thanksgiving break. Started thinking I was noticing a prob then. However, had to leave shortly thereafter, and didnt get back to car until @ Christmas.

I keep getting this prob that when I drive the vehicle, it will slowly sap the juice from the battery.

For instance, this morning I decide to give her a spin so see if I still notice it after I re-installled a new ignition switch/lock cylinder.

She cranked right up on first turn of the key. I drove @ neighborhood for about 30-40 minutes. Still noticing this slow drain goin on. I pull back into the driveway, attempt to crank again, and while the battery isnt completely dead, it fails to start the car because it doesnt have enuff juice left in it to turn the starter.

This is what I've done to the car lately so that it might help/eliminate any new ideas:

-New Battery
-New Alternator
-New Belts
-Distributor completely rebuilt.
-New spark plugs
-New plug wires
-Checked/replaced any faulty fusible links @ starter
-New Ignition Switch
- IAC & VSS sensors both brand new and calibrated.

-There is no corrosion on the battery cables/terminals.
-The (-) battery terminal is also grounded directly to the engine block.
-All cables feel tightened down snugly with no play in them.

This has me got me stumped.

I'm inclined to think that it might have sumthing to do with my starter, but, I don't understand why (if it is my starter) or how it could be causing this when I have no probs initially cranking her when the battery is re-charged.

I can't be the only one that this has ever happened to.

I'm just running out of ideas, but, I want to learn what the heck is going on.

Sorry for the long post.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

Sounds like your new alternator isn't charging.

 

Is there any possible way to track the problem by using a multi-meter?

Btw, my SES light is on, but, when I test it, all i get is a continual code 12.

 

If I recharge the battery and crank it back up again, can't I check for proper voltage or sumthing (or lack thereof) by using the multi-meter on the charging system?

I'm just not too electronically-minded, I just dont know exactly how to do it on my own.

Thanks again.

 

If you have a meter, put it on the battery and see what you have. Should be 12.8V or so charged. Then measure it with the car running. It should be above 13.5V Next turn your lights and wipers on, and see what you have for voltage. It shouldn't drop to the battery voltage. You need at least 1 more volt running with stuff on to charge enough to stay ahead of the load. If you don't have that, your alt isn't pulling its weight.

 

If you have a meter, put it on the current setting (amps). Next, disconnect the positive lead. Connect the two leads of the multimeter between the disconnected cable and the battery post. The ignition needs to be off. Make sure the car's door is closed! The dome light will draw too many amps and possible pop the meter's fuse. Next, observe how many amps are being drawn. It shouldn't be too high, as the only things powered are the computer memory and radio. Now, start pulling fuses ONE AT A TIME until you get a current drop on the meter. When that happens, you've found your drain. Begin looking for wires or components that are faulty within that circuit. I had this same problem with my formula; the car couldn't sit more than a week without needing to be jumped. It turned out there was an old Alpine alarm tucked under the dash that was still wired into the accesories circuit. I never knew it was there until I did this procedure. The meter read about half the original value when the appropriate fuse was pulled. After I pulled the alarm and chucked it, the the problem went away. Drains are a real PITA sometimes, so be patient. Good luck!

 

Now, I get the chance to sound really stoopid.

Umm, the multi-meter that I've got is basically divided among OHM, TACHx10, DC Volts, and "Dwell" ( along with a *10A* setting at the 3 o'clock position).

I'm honestly really not sure exactly what setting I should have it on for *AMPS*.

After re-charging the battery (and testing with the MM set on *DC VOLTS*) I get a reading of 13.41 off the battery.

So, I go ahead and hook the battery back up to the car and start the ignition. I let it idle a couple minutes and check it. I get a reading of @ 12.39.

I let it continue to idle a lil longer and return to re-check for any drop in voltage. It appears to be stable.

So, then I turn the car off and remove the key from the ignition. I then disconnect the (+) and check the fuses (one at a time) using Tommyguns procedure with the MM still set to *DC VOLTS*.

The 13.41 reading remained constant.

Now, I get the feeling that I'm supposed to be using a diff setting (or a diff MM) to read the amperage, but, I'm not so sure I even have the proper type of MM to check the amperage.

Any further insight would definitely be welcome.



Thanks.

 

Using the current (Amps) setting in series with the battery and cable will help isolate a drain when the car is off, but you said it was draining while driving. The reason you get a lower voltage with the car running is because it's running off the battery. Your alternator isn't working.

 

OK. I'll take it out and go up and get it tested.

Thanks for such a fast response!

 

Problem solved!!! :hail: :hail: :hail:

I don't know if this might also have made a difference, but, when I installed this newest alternator I also relocated the (-) battery cable ground that I'd mounted on the block.

See, I had initially just bolted the (-) terminal cable onto the lower face of the block, by itself with a stud.

This time, I mounted it a little higher on the block and sandwiched it between the side of the alternator's lower mounting bracket and the block itself.



Anyway, it 's running great!

Thanks!!!

P.S. I'm sure the *new alternator* didn't hurt, either!