I just installed the Stealth Ram on my 87 355 TPI. It had the cold start injector. I tried to start the car last night with the wiring clip for the CSI just sitting there. It would turn over and almost fire but not quite. I tried adjusting the timing and that didnt help at all. Do I need to get a chip for the cold start injector delete like the 89 chips? I was under the impression that the car would start anyway, it would just be more difficult. what have you guys done about this? Thanks

 

Best bet would be to have it deleted from the computer. While you are at it, you might as well have any adjustments made to the chip that need to be, based on the mods you have done.

 

You'll be much better off if you just swap to the '89 code. All you have to do is swap out the memcal and you'll be good to go. You get faster datarates with the newer code anyway (in case you ever need to log/scan the ECM data.)

 

Thanks guys I will definitely be getting at least a new chip if not the whole '89 memcal. However, I am still curious if the car would even start with the way it is now. Has anyone done this?

 

I put a stealth ram on my car while at the same time putting on headers and a y-pipe, new exhaust, and march underdrive pulleys. Since then the car runs like crap. It will barely stay idling if at all and in general doesn't run very well. I have messed around with the tuning and replaced the maf and esc as well as the maf power burnoff relay. I emailed holley and they never responded. Any help that anyone could provide would be very useful.

 

I put a stealth ram on my car while at the same time putting on headers and a y-pipe, new exhaust, and march underdrive pulleys. Since then the car runs like crap. It will barely stay idling if at all and in general doesn't run very well. I have messed around with the tuning and replaced the maf and esc as well as the maf power burnoff relay. I emailed holley and they never responded. Any help that anyone could provide would be very useful.

 

is your timming right?

 

What do you mean by "I have messed around with the tuning?" What exactly have you messed with?


RSN.....you should be able to get it started if it's warm outside, but the colder the air is the harder it will be to start. You COULD spray some carb cleaner into the intake and get it fired up that way, but I don't recommend it unless you have to move the car and there's no other way.

 

I have set the timing on my car, right now I have it set at about 2 degrees advance becuase I thought I heard it knocking. I also set the TPS within factory specs as well as the factory idle setup. I put the winaldl on it today and it is telling me that it has low MAF voltage. I have a reman MAF on the car and I am not sure what this means.

 

just an update:

i was able to start the car in approx 30 degree weather. all i had to do was adjust the timing some more. It's still not timed perfectly and it doesnt idle very good (sort of sputters from around 450-550 RPMs), but it runs and the only leak is from the stupid o-ring water neck.

 

If he does that, his car won't start at all. It will just turn over and over and the injectors won't fire.
He'll need one with VATS disabled.

Did you get the HSR with the adjustable fuel regulator? If so, did you note the pressure and adjust it yet?

Most people who use one of those chrome waternecks have issues with it leaking. I am using a cast iron waterneck from a TBI car with the sensor holes plugged up and I have no leaks.

 

I got the non-adjustable regulator.

I fixed the waterneck leak by adding a regular thermostat gasket.

What do you other HSR users have your base timing set at? I'm hoping that adjusting that will make it idle a little better. I'm going
to be getting into PROM burning in the next week or two hopefully so that should help it run better.

 

that's why I asked about the timming, the fact is our cars are old and many w/ the cold start injector still start with out it. it may crank longer or fire and die but, do start and stay running with out much of a issue