when changing heads.. what is better to use, bolts or studs?

does it make a difference at all?


also does anyone have a GM part# for a 350 head gasket set for a 92??

 

Studs are supposed to be stronger, but any good quality bolt from ARP will work awesome for your setup....some people have had leaking problems with studs as well....bolts are easier to work with for me. Just make sure you clean and tap all the threads to ensure an even torque on all the fasteners and you'll be set.

 

You might have trouble getting the heads on with studs unless you plan on pulling the engine.

 

ARP's cylinder head studs now come hex-broached (sp?).. Meaning that they have a little spot for an allen wrench at the top. Should make them pretty easy to install once the head is sitting on the block. Boy I wish they came out with those before I bought them..

 

I had heard through the grapevine that you cannot remove the heads with studs in a thirdgen with the motor still in the car. I don't know if it's true or not, but it's something to think about.

 

This is true.. Not enough clearance by far. But if you get ARP's new head studs, it won't be a problem, as you can install them at the same time you would install the bolts on a head installation. Just don't forget thread sealant (liberal amounts) on the threads!!

 

My experience is that the HVAC box on the pass. side and the Pwr. Br. booster/master cyl. on the dr. side.