Ok well i put the 355 in solved quite a few problems..

Now...the car had NO POWER...I'd stomp the gas...it wouldnt pick up at all. So i pulled the dizzy out and found it was a tooth off (i assume) so i dropped it back in at TDC right on the money with cly 1. Start it up...a few problems..finally runs smooth. I pull it out of the garage...punch it..still no power. I cant figure it out.

Things about my car..

1 New injectors...runs rich (maybe i fouled the plugs?)
2 New fuel filter....ran it to empty like 3 times though..is that enough to clog it up?)
3. Timings on 8*


any other suggestions?

 

Check all the basics first. Timing (at 8*) try 10. Whats the fuel pressure? Are you getting wide open throttle? Any check engine lights on? I would put another filter in it, they are cheap.

 

timings good...filters are good...fuel pressure is around 35 @ idle, i lowered it because of the 30lb injectors and the car running rich..

 

ok wait


just went outside and stuck a code reader on it...got code 43

EST circuit had low voltage? or esc- circuit problems

 

Set the fuel pressure correctly. If its running rich its because of another problem, such as electronic spark control. I suggest you get a good manual that tells how to run through the checklist on your esc code.

 

Ok i fixed that by putting in a new knock sensor

now it throws a code 42

 

If it keeps throwing different codes at you I would have a GOOD look at all your grounds. What is code 42?

 

code 42 is similar.. its

Electronic Spark TIming circuit - open or shorted to ground during engine run

Or

direct ignition System fault - bypass circuit open or shorted to ground during engine run

or

fuel cutoff relay circuit - open or shorted to ground

I was having problems with no power...so i thought the dizzy was off a tooth, now i moved it over and it looked to line up with cly 1 better then b4..but now ill look at the timing and its 8* retarded and i have my dizzy as far advanced as it can go. I unplug the bypass circuit and the timing goes all over the place..

Even before i moved the dizzy, the timing was all erractic and the car had no power

 

Go back to square 1. Bring the motor to tdc #1 cyl. R&R distributer. Set timing. It sounds like your out more than a tooth.

 

well it was all erractic...and then i redid it again and it looked dead on with cly 1..but now its still erractic and runs ****ty still, i guess i gotta try again

 

KISS... did you remember to connect the EST wire back up? Have you datalogged the car yet? Any knock? What's your compression? Idle is ok correct? Unloaded will the engine rev freely? Did you remove the a/c system by chance?

 

When i just check the timing w/o the wire disconnected..its 8* retarded, when i disconnect the wire...the timing goes crazy..up and down. Datalogged?. I dont believe theres a knock the engine was just rebuilt and i just replaced the knock sensor as well. Idk what the compression is...the engine was just rebuilt a month a go...so maybe at most 10:1, 9:1? Idle is ok, the engine revs freely, and no the ac is still in there..just missing the drier canister.

Before I thought the dizzy was off a tooth, so i moved it over and a bit, it looked like to lined up with cly 1 better. Now the car runs ****tier, so i assume its the distrib causing all these problems. O and i have the dizzy as far advanced as it can go...if i move it at all...the car wont even start.

 

Supposed to set the timing to 6* with the wire disconnected. Then you connect it back up and the timing should increase.

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...ngtiming.shtml

 

Pull the dist up enought to rotate the rotor 1 tooth back or forward depending where you are getting the interference, it will drop onto the oil pump shaft and won't seat but just crank the end with the coil disc and it will drop right down. Adj the timing to 8 degrees with the wire disc to start and go from there.

 

Ok timing is ok now...i put it at 8 degrees and it had power but not that much and was still pissing out black smoke. So i set it to 12 degrees...starts up spits alil smoke then it starts idling nice and doesnt smoke at all? (this was also after warming up a bit...is this normal?)

Now its just a power issue...it doesnt have much. and it overheated today. So Im going to go to central auto parts and grabbing a new coolant temp guage switch, fan switch and thermostat. I have all low temp stuff...im going to out back the factory 180 thermo and the factory fan switch. Plus all of it is from the previous owner...and *** know what the hell he did, he did everything half assed so..

i went over all the intake and retightened the bolts to it...there was deff a vac leak, im gunna go over them again soon..and use locktight this time

 

now i just went outside...the car started up and purred beautifullly...then i revved it once and the revs shut up very quickly and you could tell that power was there...then the rev came down and i revved it again and it began to run like crap

 

Perhaps just a misunderstanding, but the timing should be 6-8* advanced (BTDC), not retarded (ATDC) - right?

Just checking...

 

I fixed that...the dizzy was off, i got it right now

Ok well...car makes awesome power etc...but it keeps overheating...fans dont come on at all. I have noticed however if i stick the code reader on my car and then put the key in the on position...my left fan comes on?

 

I think that fan coming on is part of the diagnostic mode, but I'm not positive.

 

Ok because he never comes on...ever

Neither of them do. I know 1's controlled by the ecm and other is by the fan switch right?

So maybe the passanger side's 1's motor is burnt out..idk

brand new motor and ive nailed 260 like twice now

..i've got to learn to pay more attention..

 

Not sure how the fans operate - I suppose I could check my service manual.

I think though, one is controlled by engine temp sensor/ECM and the other is supposed to kick in when the A/C is turned on.

 

have you hooked up a scanner to monitor the sensors yet?

 

no i havent.

My dad just tested the wires too the fans...he said they arent getting power...is there possibly a fuse that might be blown?

 

I have a quick question before I attempt this procedure again for the 10th time.. so when you refer to #1 cyl TDC aligning with the 0* mark on the tab, does this happen every 1 revolution of the balancer? or does it essentially need to rotate eight times for each of the 8 cyl to reach TDC?? the reason I ask is cuz I was doing the procedure and the rag didn't pop out but I lined it up to 0* and dropped the dizzy in with rotor pointing 4:30 ... car idles but bad miss during accerlation..

 

Every other revolution, A rag works great, just be sure it pops out. I align the balancer, to the Zero mark because I know this is where it should start , that's assuming that the blancer hasn't slipped, and the Tab on the Timing chain cover is in the correct location.

Did you reprogram the ECM for the 30# injectors?
The ECM can compensate for a -10 to +10% increase, you've increased the flow by 36%. Lowering the fuel pressure for 24s is OK, but for 30s the spray pattern will suffer.

I would use inexpensive spark plugs, w/.035 gap until it's running right. The higher compression, and higher octane (your not use regular are you?) can, interfere with the spark trying to jump a wide gap.

The fan that came on with the scanner test is the primary fan. The secondary should have come on at about 238°F, disconnect and grond the wire, fan should come on. Sure you don't have the KnoCK, and Fan switch connectors crossed?

Once you set the timing to 8° BDTC, and before you reconnect the "Set Timing Connector," rev & hold the rpm steady at about 2000, watch the timing mark with the light, if it's jumping around, there's a problem in the distributor.

I would also readjust the valve lash just for grins (too tight, or to loose can cause a power loss.)

 

alright I just went out there and tried this again... so I remove #1 spark plug put a rag in there, crank engine it popped out right away. continue manually cranking engine a good 4-6 ratchet turns to 0 mark on tab. rotor was facing opposite #1 spark plug so I flipped it around and it was pointing straight down to 6 o'clock. between 1 & 8. so I pulled out dizzy and turned the oil pump a little so when i put dizzy back in rotor pointed to #1 as best as possible. slapped it all back together and would not start. tried turning dizzy nothing. so i took dizzy back out and flipped it 180 deg and fired right up. thing is if I set timing to 0 deg it stalls. and even at 6 deg BTDC like label says it bogs out and backfires through the TB when I blip the throttle. but when I have timing at 12 deg BTDC it sounds alot better and doesn't hesitate or backfire when I blip the throttle. for some reason this just doesn't seem right.. any suggestions?

 

I apologize my instructions were for turning the crank manually. Cranking it to pop the rag usually results with the blancer mark way past Zero, so when you completed the turn it's was at the #6 compression stroke DTC.
It must run properly at Zero, you have a timing problem, you'll have to verify timing gears, balancer & Zero aligment with actual piston TDC with a piston stop.