I replaced my injectors with the ford svo 19# injectors from summit. Now I have a no start issue. Heres the problem:

I got the injectors and installed them. I had a cracked vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator and did not realize this until later. I drove the car this way 30 miles and flooded it badly. I thought that the cold start injector was leaking and the cause of the problem and removed it. I blocked the holes on plenum and fuel rail with jb weld. I then realized the cold start valve was not the problem and the fpr was at fault by the no vacuum to it. now I changed plugs and the car still will not start. Will it start without the cold start injector? my fuel pressure is 45psi while cranking.
how do I check my injectors for voltage to make sure my car is pulsing them I have an 86 z28. Also could these new injectors have been ruined by the extra fuel pressure put to them?

thanks for the help.

 

your car will start without the cold start injector.
the injectors can handle the extra pressure.
go back to basics. did you remove the distributor when changing injectors? are the sparkplug wires on in the correct place?check the ecm fuse at the battery just in case it has blown for some reason. i ran 30lb injectors with a stock chip for a long time and didn't flood too bad and the fpr will still keep fuel pressure within specs without vacuum so i doubt it flooded it bad. if the engine did indeed flood bad, it was probably from a bad injector. i have heard of flooding wiping the oil off the cylinder walls to cause a lack of compression, but have never experienced this myself so not sure as to the likely hood of it. i also got a bad set of plugs from the store one time. 4 out of 5 of the plugs were damaged.

 

the engine did flood bad. the oil has gas in it.
I cannot for the life of me get this car to start. Spins over and sputters pop, pop, pop, like it wants to start but wont. These injectors were brand new from summit. no the distributor was not touched. the fuse by the battery for the ecm is good.
I think im going to call summit to find out if they will take the injectors back. I tested the injector wires in the plug with ignition on and 0 volts is read. the ohms on the injectors are all 15.ohms Should I have voltage to each injector wire when ignition on. the wire colors on the injectors are green and orange with a black stripe.

any help much appreciated.

 

from what i understand, the injectors only get power when the engine is cranking. usually a noid light is used to check for injector pulse while crankiing the motor. if the motor flooded that badly, you might want to check compression. i'm not saying you didn't get some bad injectors, but i have heard nothing but good things about svo injectors. also, recheck fuel pressure to make sure you have good pressure if you haven't checked it since installing the injectors. also, check for spark at the plugs just to make sure something didn't go bad to prevent spark.

btw, the reference to bad plugs in my previous post was supposed to be 4 out of 8 instead of 5

 

The injectors will get 12VDC whenever the ignition is turned on. Only one wire on each of the injector connectors will have voltage. Check the voltage with the negative lead of your meter referenced to a good ground, and not to the opposite wire in the connector. If there is no voltage at the injector connectors, check the 10A fuses (FP/INJ1 and INJ2) in the interior fuse panel:



If the fuses are intact, check for voltage on either end of the fuses. Both ends should have power when the ignition is on. If not, you may have a fuse link or ignition switch problem.

If there is power at the fuses but not at the injector connectors, you may have a wire harness problem.

 

I just checked the injector connectors with a test light and while cranking the test light flashed on the connectors indicating everything is ok from the distributor, to the ecm, then to injectors. I then checked spark on the wires with a timing light and the spark is there.

So the fuel pressure is good. the injectors are getting power. And the plugs are new and spark is comming from the distributor and still no start. WTF this is starting to look like faulty injectors or I am still flooded badly and killed the other set of new plugs.

 

Remove a few of the more easily accessible spark plugs. check their condition. Insulators that are wet with fuel will shunt the spark energy directly to ground. If you find wet plugs, dry them with heat/time or install more new ones. Crank the engine several cycles with the plugs removed to help dry out the chambers. You may have so much fuel puddled in the runners and plenum that the new plugs got washed with fuel on the first crank. I'm not even going to mention how we used to "dry out" the old Mopars with that "wonderful" POS AFB carb when they invariably flooded as soon as the temperature fell below 20°. All I can say was it involved carrying a good supply of books of paper matches and a relatively long screwdriver to hold the choke open. I used to make a killing every winter starting Mopars with that carb and "pump-happy" operators.

FWIW, the injectors should survive pressure up to 50 PSIG (and usually well beyond that) with no problems. 45 pounds is within the range of normal pressure at startup (no vacuum at the FPR).

One thing to consider is not so much the injectors, but the 'O' rings used when they were installed. Ford 'O' rings have a smaller cross section than GM 'O' rings, and may leak vacuum at the lower end or fuel at the upper end. If you used a good (new) set of the larger GM 'O' rings when you installed the injectors, that should not be a problem. If you used the rings provided with the inectors, you may have leakage. As a result, the vacuum leakage may be preventing fuel from being drawn into the chambers effectively on cranking, allowing it to puddle around the valves instead.

Another thing to consider is the pressure regulator itself. If it has a ruptured diaphragm, fuel may leak into the plenum through the vacuum hose, flooding the engine. You can test the integrity of the FPR by simply removing the vacuum line from the FPR while the engine is running or while the fuel pump is running. If there is fuel present at the FPR vacuum fitting, the FPR is damaged.

If that's all good, make sure the IAT and CTS are reporting correct voltages to the ECM. If the sensor resistances are within reason at a given temperature, they should be fine, so long as they are connected. You may also want to verify the TPS voltage, just in case it is high and causing extra fuel.

 

I just pulled the plugs again and they are soaked bad.
I put the air compressor to them and fuel spattered everywhere.
I put an air hose to the cylinders and intake to dry out.

I do have the ford orings and there is no fuel leaking exterior to the engine compartment from the the fuel rail.
though thats not to say the vacuum is stong on the intake end of the injector they could be leaking there. thanks for the help it is greatly appreciated.

I just got new plugs i will try them one more time then i will remove the ford orings and put gm orings in.

anyone else out there running ford svo injectors with the ford orings in their car....Ryan

 

Perform a search. Some are running the thinner rings with no problems, while others have had problems. Try the plugs first. Changing injectors is no easy chore.

 

I just changed the orings on the intake side of injector back to the gm style and the damn thing still will not start. what gives..???

I got fuel pressure. I got spark. I checked the injectors with a light. cranks over and sputters. Im killing my battery and now its on the charger. these injectors cannot be what I bought or they are faulty......

 

Are you sure the plugs are thoroughly dry?

 

the plugs were brand new just installed. I am wondering if this car will even start when outside temp here is 35 degrees when the cold start valve has been removed and the prom has not been updated. I just tried starting it and it still sputters pop pop pop. I have it jumped off from my van with the van running. so electrical supply is good. I pulled the injector connectors off and continued to try to start and the sputtering totally vanished. (I wanted to see if it would improve to see if i was flooded out.)
so I then put some stater fluid in the plenum and nothing happened here again. no improvement and nothing worse but no poping or sputtering. I reconected the injector wires and the sputtering and poping came back.??????WTF

 

I put my old injectors back in with 1 replacement injector that was bad and the car does the same thing no start.

I need a prom change for the cold start injector delete or my car will never start..

 

Plugs still dry?

 

I would leave the SVO 19# in the car.

I would go buy a 89 coded memcal for your car. U will have to do this aftermarket though or learn burning. U need to delete the Vats setup however(chip has it , your car doesnt)

If the injectors are still dry and your sure the fuel pressure regulator isnt leaking into the plenum(thru the vaccum line) it is what I would do..

U guys are forgetting, looking at his sig, he is in Maine, colder it gets worse you are with the deleted cold start and no extra fuel added.

Suprised he hasnt made it run at all however.

Have u had it in a garage with some type of heat and trie to start it?

Are u positive u have the runners and gaskets on the correct side of the engine etc?

later
Jeremy

 

I bought the chevy tpi fuel injection swappers guide book and is says the injectors are not pulsed on long enough to start the vehicle when its cold. Its states this under the cold start valve section. Its snowing and 25 degrees and it will not start. it will pops several times but thats it. I cant seem to get the starter fluid down into the intake on the tpi do to the runners. The way they are configured its very difficult. The stater fluid just pools up in the throttle body. I have sent the svo #19 injectors back to summit. the car never ran right with them installed thats why I removed the cold start valve as I thought it was leaking and the cause of the rich running. Though theyprobably would have worked I am just getting frustrated and needed to eliminate them as a problem. I knew I only needed 1 injector so at the very least it would have run on the 7 cylinders again.

So I am back to square 1.

7 original injectors with 1 replacement.
The only thing changed is the cold start valve is gone. This must be my problem.

I have no real means of heating my garage up to 80 degrees to start it . regulator is not leaking into plenum, the vacuum line is dry. runners and gaskets are on correctly. 40 psi fuel pressure. 45 while pump on. injectors pulsing with light and clicking is heard. ignition firing. ecm power is on. tps unhooked. maf unhooked.

Who do I have burn me a chip? I have looked around here and there is alot of info on diy prom burning but I dont want to get involved just yet. I just want my car to run.
Is it just as simple as to call hypertech and tell them I want it for 89 305ci and delete vats?

thanks alot...Ryan

 

yes plugs are dry. they are new and I keep buying new ones. I have also taken air hose to cylinders evertime I replace them. when I do replace them it takes a while of engine cranking to start getting the pops again. so this indicates not enough fuel?

 

Dont waste the time or the monye on hypertech crap.

Get with someone who can do tuning.

Even try hitting ebay.

Request a cal for a $6E 305 MAF TPI for an auto car. All u need done it the elimination of the VATS so the car will start

Should get u started right there.

later
Jeremy

 

My car still will not start. I had the prom programed at tpi parts for the elimination of the cold start valve. All I can get the car to do is pop. I load the vehicle up with starting fluid and it still justs pops. If you remove the fuses for the injectors the poping will cease also as would be expected indicationg again fuel delivery is not the issue at hand. (This is what throws me off.) The spark is good on all the plugs. the distributor is on correctly. though I have not removed it from when the car was once running good I dont know how the distributor can move when its tight and I cant phyically move it. if the timing rotor gear was frigged up i would not have the rotor move and i would not have spark at all correct?.. The wires are all 10 ohms and are on the correct spot on the cap. New plugs installed too. My question is this. The car acts like the firing order is off somehow? firing at the wrong time basically is what I can come up with. what parts of the ignition circuit could somehow throw off the firing other than the distributor? Could I have a bad computer? As that is really all that is left. I beleive that with a bad distributor or ignition there would be no spark all together other than if the distributor was rotated and it was not.. please help I need some good troubleshooting here.

 

Have you checked/set the base timing?

 

the timing has been set numerous times lately. the timing was last set when I installed my camshaft. The distributor was not removed when I did the injectors. I will pull the distributor and go through setting it again if you guys think it is neccessary. I have not done so do to the fact it has not been touched and it was set right and the car ran good. In my mind I cannot see how the distributor can un time itself. I dont want to introduce other variables into this complicated issue by saying to myself jeese I wonder if the distributor is on correctly...

If my computer ecm was bad would I have spark at all? Can the computer be bad some other way and have spark but occur at the wrong time.

 

Try a compression check. You seem to have everything else....... Or a cylinder leakdown test.....

 

There is no need to remove the distributor to check the base timing. Simply connect your timing light, disconnect the EST bypass, and check the timing at idle RPM.

The possibility exists that the spark is at the wrong time, which is why I suggested this.

 

yes compression check has been done.
the car will not start so i cannot check base timing at idle.

 

I pulled the distributor and low and behold the rotor was not even attached. the cheap as plastic bolts that hold it on broke right off...(hypertech distributor). this goes to show that even if you have spark things can be wrong seriously. I find this odd that the fuel injector goes bad and the distributor falls apart at the same time....ha ha

oh well thank you guys very much for the input. this web site is the best.....Ryan