LPE 216 cam?
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From: Winnipeg,MB,Can
Car: 1991 GTA
Engine: 5.7L L98
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.23
LPE 216 cam?
Has anyone used this cam before. Will it work with stock heads or do you have to upgrade valve springs or something. What type of numbers are guys pulling with this type of cam?
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Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1987 Iroc-z
Engine: 355/Edelbrkhds/lpe219cam/MiniRam/
Transmission: 700R4/3.27 9bolt
Have 219 cam, ran it with stock heads for a few years. I needed new valve springs and would highly suggest stronger rocker arms. Needed a Torque converter do to higher idle. Custom chip was necessary too (to raise idle and stuff)
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
We just installed this cam in my GF's rebuilt 355. We had her 083 heads decked to clean, pinned the studs and also had the spring seats machined and had comp 986 springs installed. I guess you can use stock springs, but I wouldnt. Even with the low lift, the ramps are pretty agressive. We have this on a 8:6:1 forged motor waiting for a blower. I called LPE and they said the cam should work great.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 382
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From: Winnipeg,MB,Can
Car: 1991 GTA
Engine: 5.7L L98
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I just talked to LPE and they reccomended the LT4 Valvespring kit for the L98 heads cause i would like 1.6rr. Should fit without any machining i was told. Hoping for 300 HP at the crank.
FWIW, that lift wouldn't clear my heads in stock form. I measured, and with some fudge factor a cam of about .480-.490 lift would clear. Not anything higher. I'd think you'd push it with 1.6rr and that cam. Measure first to be sure.
You can try offset keeps and shim up the springs accordingly. Watch the pressed in studs though.
You can try offset keeps and shim up the springs accordingly. Watch the pressed in studs though.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Winnipeg,MB,Can
Car: 1991 GTA
Engine: 5.7L L98
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally posted by 91Z28-350
FWIW, that lift wouldn't clear my heads in stock form. I measured, and with some fudge factor a cam of about .480-.490 lift would clear. Not anything higher. I'd think you'd push it with 1.6rr and that cam. Measure first to be sure.
You can try offset keeps and shim up the springs accordingly. Watch the pressed in studs though.
FWIW, that lift wouldn't clear my heads in stock form. I measured, and with some fudge factor a cam of about .480-.490 lift would clear. Not anything higher. I'd think you'd push it with 1.6rr and that cam. Measure first to be sure.
You can try offset keeps and shim up the springs accordingly. Watch the pressed in studs though.
I'm speaking of your retainer to valve seal clearance. The springs aren't part of that determination.
If you're going to pull the heads and have the spring pockets worked over to use the LT4 springs, then you'll be fine as you can have the valve bosses cut down for more clearance as well.
There are springs that can handle the lift without cutting the spring pockets, but that's up to you to decide if you want to do that or not.
If you're going to pull the heads and have the spring pockets worked over to use the LT4 springs, then you'll be fine as you can have the valve bosses cut down for more clearance as well.
There are springs that can handle the lift without cutting the spring pockets, but that's up to you to decide if you want to do that or not.
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
If I were going to get my spring pockets cut I would HIGHLEY recommend a duel spring with a good seat pressure. LPE told me to use the comp 986 Duel springs with 130lbs on the seat and 280 open. I called comp and they said to use the 987 springs with 125 on the seat and 325 open pressure. I ended up going with the 986's with a nice retainer and lock set. If your going to do it once, do it right.
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