??s on 89 IROC
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 26
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From: mad city, wi
Car: 89 IROC, 85 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI, 305 Carborator
Transmission: 700R4, none
??s on 89 IROC
hi, i am workin on my 89 iroc 350 with no mods that i know of.
it starts hard and seems to run extreemly rich. i have white exhaust and an unburt fuel smell.
i did a full tuneup and set the timing. when i started messin the timing it was set very advanced like around 20 and i brought it down to about 9 and it started running and starting better. i checked the code and got a whole buch of them so i reset the computer and went for a drive, the only code i got back was code 42 (est?) and the book i have doesnt really tell me what that all entails.
so my question is what does 42 all entail and what should base timing be for this car, i have foud a few different suggestions on the base point but my car is missing its sticker and id like to take every thing back to base so i can get it to where i want in the future
thanks for any help
it starts hard and seems to run extreemly rich. i have white exhaust and an unburt fuel smell.
i did a full tuneup and set the timing. when i started messin the timing it was set very advanced like around 20 and i brought it down to about 9 and it started running and starting better. i checked the code and got a whole buch of them so i reset the computer and went for a drive, the only code i got back was code 42 (est?) and the book i have doesnt really tell me what that all entails.
so my question is what does 42 all entail and what should base timing be for this car, i have foud a few different suggestions on the base point but my car is missing its sticker and id like to take every thing back to base so i can get it to where i want in the future
thanks for any help
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 329
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Car: 1987 IROC 1991 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI 5.0 TBI
Transmission: T-5 , 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 twice
If your burning some smoke you are burning some coolant somewhere. I would think it may be a head gasket causing your headaches. Water don't like being compressed....
Code 42 shows up as electonic spark timing. Check either the ignition module or try another HEI module. Hope it helps.
Code 42 shows up as electonic spark timing. Check either the ignition module or try another HEI module. Hope it helps.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: mad city, wi
Car: 89 IROC, 85 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI, 305 Carborator
Transmission: 700R4, none
??s on 89 IROC
hi, i am workin on my 89 iroc 350 with no mods that i know of.
it starts hard and seems to run extreemly rich. i have white exhaust and an unburt fuel smell.
i did a full tuneup and set the timing. when i started messin the timing it was set very advanced like around 20 and i brought it down to about 9 and it started running and starting better. i checked the code and got a whole buch of them so i reset the computer and went for a drive, the only code i got back was code 42 (est?) and the book i have doesnt really tell me what that all entails.
so my question is what does 42 all entail and what should base timing be for this car, i have foud a few different suggestions on the base point but my car is missing its sticker and id like to take every thing back to base so i can get it to where i want in the future
thanks for any help
it starts hard and seems to run extreemly rich. i have white exhaust and an unburt fuel smell.
i did a full tuneup and set the timing. when i started messin the timing it was set very advanced like around 20 and i brought it down to about 9 and it started running and starting better. i checked the code and got a whole buch of them so i reset the computer and went for a drive, the only code i got back was code 42 (est?) and the book i have doesnt really tell me what that all entails.
so my question is what does 42 all entail and what should base timing be for this car, i have foud a few different suggestions on the base point but my car is missing its sticker and id like to take every thing back to base so i can get it to where i want in the future
thanks for any help
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
Likes: 10
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Since code 42 is an est code. Id check to make sure all the wires that involve timing are good, check the ignition control module...that could deff be why the car runs like crap. Also take a look at the knock sensor and your distributor in general.
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set base timing to 6 with the est connector unplugged...and when you plug it back in and start the car..itll jump to 8 degrees btc
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set base timing to 6 with the est connector unplugged...and when you plug it back in and start the car..itll jump to 8 degrees btc
Last edited by LoudmouthSS; Apr 4, 2006 at 11:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 7
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Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 383 Stroker
Transmission: Turbo 350
Code 42 = Electronic spark timing circuit (EST)
Generally the ECM has seen a short or open in the EST circuit.
Hope this helps... it's from a General motors Manual...
1.. Clear codes, Idle engine for 1 min or until SES light comes on, turn car off, turn key to "on" position, retrieve codes.
code 42?? if yes goto next step.
Ignition off, disconnect ecm connectors, turn ignition on, use ohm meter in 1000-2000 ohm range, probe ecm harness 32 pin connector (ckt 423, pin d4 white wire) with + lead of meter the other lead to ground.
less than 500 ohms? no = open wire, faulty connection or faulty ignition module (the one in the distributor)
if no goto step 2, if yes continue, probe ECM 32 pin connector (ckt 424 or d5 pin tan/blk wire) below the white wire, with a test light, light lights up, disconnect ignition module 4 way connector, light on?.. ckt maybe shorted to ground. if the light goes off... faulty Ignition module.
step 2, Test light doesn't light up, this step is tricky, more than 2 hands help
With the ohm meter + lead still connected to pin d4 (white wire), and the other connected to ground, take the test light, this time connect the alligator clip to 12v,and the tip of the test light to pin d5, watch the meter carefully, the resistance should jump from 500 ohm to 5000 ohm reading or out of limits for the meters selected range.
Does it? yes = step 4, no = step 3
step 3, no, disconnect 4-way connector at ignition module and meter should show high resistance (open circuit)
does it?? yes ckt 424 faulty connection or faulty ignition module
no, ckt 423 shorted to ground, check for rubbed sires.
step 4, yes, turn key off, reconnect ecm and idle engine for 1 minute,or until SES light comes on, code 42, possible faulty ecm, if light stays off then check connections at the Ignition module and ECM, maybe open or short in the circuit.on ckt's 423, 424
hope this helps. if you have an auto parts store nearby, check and see if they can check the ignition module for you. are you setting the timing with the bypass wire disconnected? it's the tan/blk wire connector along the fire wall. I would try a base timing of 6-8 degrees, then reconnect the timing connector. White smoke = coolant; blue = oil; black = excessive fuel
Generally the ECM has seen a short or open in the EST circuit.
Hope this helps... it's from a General motors Manual...
1.. Clear codes, Idle engine for 1 min or until SES light comes on, turn car off, turn key to "on" position, retrieve codes.
code 42?? if yes goto next step.
Ignition off, disconnect ecm connectors, turn ignition on, use ohm meter in 1000-2000 ohm range, probe ecm harness 32 pin connector (ckt 423, pin d4 white wire) with + lead of meter the other lead to ground.
less than 500 ohms? no = open wire, faulty connection or faulty ignition module (the one in the distributor)
if no goto step 2, if yes continue, probe ECM 32 pin connector (ckt 424 or d5 pin tan/blk wire) below the white wire, with a test light, light lights up, disconnect ignition module 4 way connector, light on?.. ckt maybe shorted to ground. if the light goes off... faulty Ignition module.
step 2, Test light doesn't light up, this step is tricky, more than 2 hands help
With the ohm meter + lead still connected to pin d4 (white wire), and the other connected to ground, take the test light, this time connect the alligator clip to 12v,and the tip of the test light to pin d5, watch the meter carefully, the resistance should jump from 500 ohm to 5000 ohm reading or out of limits for the meters selected range.Does it? yes = step 4, no = step 3
step 3, no, disconnect 4-way connector at ignition module and meter should show high resistance (open circuit)
does it?? yes ckt 424 faulty connection or faulty ignition module
no, ckt 423 shorted to ground, check for rubbed sires.
step 4, yes, turn key off, reconnect ecm and idle engine for 1 minute,or until SES light comes on, code 42, possible faulty ecm, if light stays off then check connections at the Ignition module and ECM, maybe open or short in the circuit.on ckt's 423, 424
hope this helps. if you have an auto parts store nearby, check and see if they can check the ignition module for you. are you setting the timing with the bypass wire disconnected? it's the tan/blk wire connector along the fire wall. I would try a base timing of 6-8 degrees, then reconnect the timing connector. White smoke = coolant; blue = oil; black = excessive fuel
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: mad city, wi
Car: 89 IROC, 85 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI, 305 Carborator
Transmission: 700R4, none
thanks for the answers guys, i found a wire that was bad by one of the conectors and fixed it.
now ive got a couple more ??s
first what should my base timing be, and more importantly what would cause a fuel pressure regulator to go bad?
this one that just went bad is only like 100miles old probably 10hrs or so, the problem with it is that its leaking fuel out of the vacume tube that connects to the plenum, i think thats whats cousing my unburnt fuel smell and the rough runnin. would a clogged return line cause this problem and if so how would i go about checken it out and fixin it. replacin the whole thing doesnt sound like a fun project but any suggestion here would be awsome
now ive got a couple more ??s
first what should my base timing be, and more importantly what would cause a fuel pressure regulator to go bad?
this one that just went bad is only like 100miles old probably 10hrs or so, the problem with it is that its leaking fuel out of the vacume tube that connects to the plenum, i think thats whats cousing my unburnt fuel smell and the rough runnin. would a clogged return line cause this problem and if so how would i go about checken it out and fixin it. replacin the whole thing doesnt sound like a fun project but any suggestion here would be awsome
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 856
Likes: 10
From: West Palm Beach, FL
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: SBC
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Well the stock base timing with the connector unplugged should be 6 BTC
As fas as the fuel pressure regulators go, i know the diaphragm goes bad sometimes, but what causes it i dont know. Somebody else is going to have to answer that part for ya, sorry
As fas as the fuel pressure regulators go, i know the diaphragm goes bad sometimes, but what causes it i dont know. Somebody else is going to have to answer that part for ya, sorry
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 878
Likes: 1
Car: 89' Iroc-Z G92
Engine: TPI 305 G92
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Limited 9 bolt, 3.45
Originally Posted by tzenda
thanks for the answers guys, i found a wire that was bad by one of the conectors and fixed it.
now ive got a couple more ??s
first what should my base timing be, and more importantly what would cause a fuel pressure regulator to go bad?
this one that just went bad is only like 100miles old probably 10hrs or so, the problem with it is that its leaking fuel out of the vacume tube that connects to the plenum, i think thats whats cousing my unburnt fuel smell and the rough runnin. would a clogged return line cause this problem and if so how would i go about checken it out and fixin it. replacin the whole thing doesnt sound like a fun project but any suggestion here would be awsome
now ive got a couple more ??s
first what should my base timing be, and more importantly what would cause a fuel pressure regulator to go bad?
this one that just went bad is only like 100miles old probably 10hrs or so, the problem with it is that its leaking fuel out of the vacume tube that connects to the plenum, i think thats whats cousing my unburnt fuel smell and the rough runnin. would a clogged return line cause this problem and if so how would i go about checken it out and fixin it. replacin the whole thing doesnt sound like a fun project but any suggestion here would be awsome
I run mine @ 15*.....generally 8-12* works nicely.
(There should be a sticker in the front of the hood that gives you some info on the car)
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mustangman65_79
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Aug 11, 2015 03:17 PM





thats much more helpful then what i said heh 
