Stuck AFPR help. warning long story
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 741
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From: Long Island NY
Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7L 355 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4 with TCI rebuild kit and valve body mods
Stuck AFPR help. warning long story
i installed a new crane adjustable fuel pressure regulator recently, and read the instructions...... (stupid me) and in there, it said it reccomended to use THREAD LOCKER so, remembering i had some in the garage i put some on all the bolts, and locked that sucker down. after the installation, i decided to start adjusting the bolt and check fuel pressure. i started the car, noted fuel pressure, it was normal, screwed the bolt down a bit more and noted pressure. in the notes it said to screw the bolt down until it touches the spring, then start noting pressure. i did this, but as i got further down the bolt seemed to start to get harder to turn. realizing this and fearing stripping, i turned it the other way. and GREAT the head of the bolt snapped right off...... seeing this, and after gaining my composure from being extremely pissed, i decided i had to take the regulator off in order to get the broken bolt out, seeing as there was too little of the bolt sticking out to grab on with a vice grip or equivalent tool. i go to take it off, and i start loosening one of the bolts and i see that the TR-10 socket that came with the whole package started to twist...... and at the same time the bolt wasnt moving anywhere. seeing this i tried to turn it the opposite way to make it straight again, and kept repeating the process to try to loosen the bolt. finally the bolt cracked loose, so i moved onto the next bolt. but as soon as i started to turn it, the TR-10 socket started to torque again, and then SNAP...... tip broke right off. noting all of this, i realized i was going to need a TOUGH TR-10 socket, so i went on snap-on's website and bought one for 22 bucks..... a few days later i recieved the socket, so immediately i used it to try to take the remaining bolts off. i continued where i left off, and the snap-on seemed like it was doing the job, however i was being extremely cautious considering the TR-10 socket is so thin, regardless if it is snap-on quality, it is fragile. i get to the LAST bolt, try to start to loosen it, and it wont budge. try to turn the other way, keep rotating back and forth, and it just wouldnt move, and then, you guessed it. the snap-on SNAPPED. i removed it, took a look and sure enough it had a crack going down the side of the tip. ill attach an image later. anyway, i called snap-on, and they delivered me another one free of charge. i just got that one in the mail today...... we'll see what happens
Another good reason to use Apex driver bits. They are the OEM that manufactured the actual punches and inserts used in the header dies when the bolts were made. They were the original licensee for Torx profile punches, dies, and drivers.
I would also avoid using any permanent threadlocker on the security T-10s for the FPR. At most, Loctite 222 service removable would be required. I reassembled mine with anti seize compound instead of a thread locker. They SS machine screws tend to lock into the aluminum all by themselves, anyway, since they are Orlo pattern screws.
I would also avoid using any permanent threadlocker on the security T-10s for the FPR. At most, Loctite 222 service removable would be required. I reassembled mine with anti seize compound instead of a thread locker. They SS machine screws tend to lock into the aluminum all by themselves, anyway, since they are Orlo pattern screws.
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