Well guys, it's me again.

Did my heads and cam swap a few weeks ago, and finally got a chip burned at PCMforless.com, hoping that this would solve my idling problems, and well...it didnt. Cam is a Comp Cams XR270HR-10, heads are Brodix IK200's.

My car wont hold an idle at all, and Ive adjusted timing from 0* to 12* with no luck (yes, the advance wire was disconnected), but also, it is hard to time this car when it wont idle, the timing mark is all over the place because I have to hold an idle at over 1000rpm with the gas pedal.

Where would be my best place to start to get my car idling nicely? I wouldnt think IAC and TPS would need to be adjusted, but could I be wrong? Help me get this issue resolved guys.

 

With the EST connector removed, the timing should remain almost rock steady at wherever you have clamped it. If the timing is "all over the place" there may be a problem with the distributor, pickup/reluctor, or connections.

 

might have to adjust the air coming in through the throttle body..i know i had too. Punch out the little metal protective cap and raise the idle. The TB might not be letting enough air in..this was my problem. I needed at least a 900rpm idle in drive with my cam. Idles around 1,050-1,100 in park.

afterwards, adjust the minimum air and you should be set.

I know with my car...even with a steady idle, the cars tps voltage was around .3. So with our cars, since our tps isnt adjustable, you can raise the idle until the tps voltage is a .7. My idle was around 2,000rpm at that point lol. After that, adjust the minimum air and the computer will automatically drop the idle according to what your prom is asking for.

 

So, adjusting the minimum air and adjusting the air coming through the throttle body are two different processes? Is adjusting the minimum air adjusting the IAC?

What were your symptoms when you got your new cam? I took mine out for a drive and its just very hesitant and studders, almost as if its missing maybe, but I just put new plug wires on and all are way clear of any heat coming from the headers. Basically its got zero power, worse than when it was stock, but I know this attributes to tuning it right. Hit me up on aim if you can: Guitarjunki17

Thanks.

 

I just swapped my cam, intake, runners, plemun, AFPR...and other things. And its off to a Dyno shop to get tuned and a custom chip made for it. YES, my car idels very bad, and really rich. I have to double pedal it just to move it around.
But I did take it down the road. Starts off slow but it does spin the tires shifting into 2nd and almost gets them shifting into 3rd. I'm sure a nice tune is all my car needs.....my fingers are crossed.
btw, i did set my TPS back to .52, it was set at .84 and my minimun air....I had to turn the idel almost all the way up just to get it to idel at 450rpm's

 

Spark timing at idle in $8D (90-92 MAP system) will bounce around by about 8 degrees. Only way to fix it is in the prom.
Lowering the o2 thresholds for idle will lean it out and get the idle a little better too.
These are a couple of threads about these issues in the DIY-PROM section. I'll try to find them.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...highlight=idle
Theres a link to another post about 1/2 way down.

 

Can you adjust settings in your ECU with an OBDI ALDL cable and software like Datamaster? Or do you have to get the chip reflashed to make any changes?

 

You didn't mention what size injectors or if you have a FPR. I was in the same mess as you when I had the stock 22's. When I installed my Crane cam and AFR heads my car wouldn't idle at all. I just put in 30lb Motorsport's two weeks ago and I nearly s**t myself when my car started idling all by itself again. In the process of shimming my Powermaster starter and waiting for the custom PROM to come in the mail (yeah, yeah, I know DIY. Don't have the patience or a dyno) then she'll be back on the street after 2 fricken years. Good luck.

 

no you can make any changes unless you've got a prom burner and the software accordingly

 

Are you sure you phased the cam correctly? Installed the distributor in the right place?

 

yea if your off a tooth on the dizzy..it WILL idle, but it wont have ANY power...took me like 3 tries and i finally got it right when i stabbed the distributor..

 

If the dizzy was off a tooth, couldnt you compensate with advancing or retarding the timing?

 

i dont think it works that way...

 

U cant be "a tooth off in the distributor"

The only way not going in on the original tooth from when you pulled it would be that you would run out of room due to plug wire length when attempting to advance/retard the distributor the proper amount.

Now you can be 180 out and have number one intake TDC set to number one exhaust TDC. that wont run every time or cough and chug like mad.

Basic settings like timing/TPS/IAC are critical on a modified motor and the only way to properly cure it will be thru tuning.

later
Jeremy

 

See, this is what is so frusterating, because all of this kind of stuff has been done and is reading correctly.

In Datamaster, TPS is set at .71 idle, 4.22 WOT
IAC is at 40 counts
Timing is okay
Spark advance is fine, which I would think means that the distributor was installed right....ect.

It is running rich though, 14.1+ (15 in some instances), but im sure that is a result from whatever the main issue is.

 

I know it has been awhile for you, but did you ever get your car to idle? If not I just want to add a little tid-bit that has happened to many of my friends with modified 3rd gens. You get all your stuff in order, new parts, TPS Voltage, timing, etc.... HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!!!! If you purchased a NEW IAC VALVE you MUST adjust the needle to 1-1/8" extended. You adjust it by pulling the spring down and screwing it in or out. Get to 1-1/8" and tada idle much better! I did this on many cars, but my buddy with an ATI Blower was the most suprised, he was ready to spend thounsands of dollars to get it to idle when something you can do for free worked like a charm.

P.S. If you already knew this, then please excuse me I am not trying to insult anyone's intelligence, I'm just trying to help.

To the neverending pursuit of more speed!

 

Thank you for your help, but the IAC valve is the one that was still in there. And yes I am still trying to figure this out, but I only get to work on it maybe once a month, since I am up at college, so I barely get to touch it.

The distributor and cam are definately lined up, but I still cant get an idle...I just dont know. I'm going to buy a new distributor because I feel that this one might be shot because of different reasons, so we'll see what happens there.

Thanks again