Does anyone have a link to a site or pics on how to modify TPI rails for rear exit? I know street & performance offers this, but I was looking for something cheaper. I know this can be done I just don't know what I need to do. Pics would help if anyone has them.

 

I'm Wondering the same thing

Graham

 

Just did this today...very easy,,,I got an 85 fuel rail with the cold start fitting on the rear, even though I don't use the cold start, as I'm running ARAP code. Street and Performance sells a couple of fittings..1 that fits where the cold start connecter was...converts to -6AN. The other fits the regulator where the return port is. Got both fittings for about $30...since I had already plumbed my fuel line with braided line, it was very simple to move the lines for the rear connection. Just make sure you cut the original fuel and return lines from the rail, and plug the hole. I used a bolt I could screw in, and some JB Weld. Works GREAT, and really cleans up the front of the motor

 

Do you have pics or part numbers?

 

I'd like to bring this back up... Does anybody have a little more info about doing this?? I need to route my fuel lines out the back of my fuel rails. A few questions
1. what is the best way to add the rear fuel line in the rail
2.what is the best way to plug the front/old hole in the rail.

thanks!

 

I saw this same pic being run on ebay for 85.00 for converting your rail. I'm working on the same conversion now.
What I'm doing is taking a -6 AN fitting and drilling out the inlet and silver soldering it to about an inch of my return line that came out of my regulator. You really don't have enough meat to thread the regulator outlet.
Then you can use the 180 AN fitting on return line. The cold start will accomadate the pressure side.
I hadn't decided what to do on the original pressure side yet, but I like the JB weld idea. Will it stand up to 40-50 lbs?
Ron

 

I just did this as well. I'm using the 9th injector, so I had the other rail drilled and tapped. Had the front of the rail sealed and welded. Regulator is drilled and tapped. I still have to get the fittings yet.

 

Yea I got that photo off E-bay. does it matter which rail you add the rear exit to??

 

I sealed up the cold injector port with JB Weld and have had no problems. I took the fitting out, roughed up the inside with sanpaper, cleaned it with brake cleaner, the applied JB Weld to the whole interior of that fitting. Then I just screwed it back into the fuel rail. This way I could always just remove the fitting if I changed my mind later.

I wish I had seen a reasonable cost rear fuel exit back when I was making fuel lines up. Routing around the accessories and water pump was a PAIN. (I have a non-serpentine setup)

 

I am curious as to why people are doing this Mod ?

 

cleans up the front of the engine a little bit

 

ahhh sweet man , thanx for the tip

 

This is s little better Idea. I'd still like some explanation on the drilling out the fuel rail ends and putting the fitting in the FPR. Anybody??

 

I recently did this type of mod. One thing you'll want to do is on the PS rail there is an actual washer / restrictor inside. The ID of the fuel rail is around .380 inshes but this restrictor only has a .100 passage. SO, most people do this type of mod for a few reasons. 1) Bore out the restrictor for larger horsepower apps 2) Change enter/exit locations of lines and also install SS Braided fuel hose. When I did it I bought new Earl's fittings and had them welded in place. Make sure you dont have anodizing on the fittings as the welder will have to clean it all off to do the job. I'll take pix later this week and post them. My engine bay is MUCH cleaner looking now and this mod helped.

 

AC, Where is this restricted passage you speak of? I am converting my return line to the rear exit using the fitting from speed & performance. While its apart I'd like to open this restriction.

 

Any more pictures of this mod? If I want to go directly from the fitting to the steel line, do I just use a tube nut/sleeve?

 

Why would you want a hard line on the rail?
What are you doing to allow for engine movement?

 

I was just thinking for fewer connections. Isn't that what the factory had, but just going to the front of the engine? Did it have something to allow for engine flex? I'm not originally tpi and I'm using new fuel lines, so I don't know.

 

See
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/post...920-post3.html

 

There are hard lines from the rails to around the side of the motor, and from there to the frame rail hard lines are rubber hoses. Without something to isolate the vibration and motion of the engine you'll eventually crack a hard line.

 

Thanks for the clarification. Anyone have a list of fittings to go from the AN fitting on the rail to the braided hose to the steel lines? I would like to move away from the screw clamps and barbed fittings just for peace of mind.

 

I've ALWAYS bought my stuff from anplumbing.com They have the TPI hard line to AN conversion fittings that are needed as well as everything else.

 

I went to anplumbing and found what I needed, thanks. Here's the adapter to go from hard line to AN fitting if anyone's interested:

Part#165006

 

Umm, the parts you actually need are:

Part # 9894DBH 14mm x 1.5 -6 Female Metric W/ internal Oring seat to AN male

Part # 9894DBJ 16MM x 1.5 -6 Female Metric W/ internal Oring seat to AN male

Part # 991955 16mm x 1.5 -6 Fuel Injection / Power Steering Adapter. Male -O-Ring Seal

Part # 991954 14mm x 1.5 -6 Fuel Injection / Power Steering Adapter. Male -O-Ring Seal

With those 4 parts you can build any length style SS braided hose you need to go between the hard lines on the frame rail to the existing fuel rail hard connections. If you have AN fittings already on your fuel rail configuration then you don't need the last 2 parts I listed.

 

Wow! I'm glad I found this thread, there is some good info here, and the link to the adapters I really needed!!

I'm doing the same thing on my rails, except I'm coming in the front. I have a set of factory hard lines to the frame up there, and I want to add a larger filter with a replaceable cartridge.
If you are going to tap one of the rails, you will need to start with a 1/4 NPT thread starter tap (For a 1/4 NPT tap, you need a 7/16 bit.) . This is a good size I think, and it is what I drilled my rail for, where the steel insert is at the front. ( I don't know what is under the caps at the back.)You can get -AN adapters for what ever to 1/4 NPT. After you get the starter tap in as far as it will go, you will need a full depth tap to get it threaded down farther. I drilled the regulator housing about a 1/4 of an inch deeper, then used the two above taps to get it threaded all the way. The -AN adapter sets almost perfect, and it can be removed if I need to.




I drilled out the restrictions in the front as well.

Here is a thread I started, with a few before pics.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...teel-line.html

Scott.

 

Check the fitting size on the fuel rails
The early rails had 16mm supply and 14mm return.The later ones have 16mm on both

 

Those are not for high fuel pressure, the soft brass ferrule will not bite the line tight enough (and the alu body will gall or strip long before you get it leak free if it starts leaking because of surface irregularities) If you are hell bent on using something like that, get a set of steel fittings or stainless like from Swagelok (be prepared for sticker shock)

These adapters are nice for plumbing an additional tranny oil cooler or for use in some other low pressure application.

 

What do you recommend then? I have bare 3/8" steel lines custom bent from the tank right up to the back of the engine.

 

37 deg, flare w tube nut & sleeve

 

I've been thinking about this thread, and I'm almost convinced to hit the rail and the regulator from the rear. I can cut my fuel lines back by the transmission, and flare them there. Is a 37 deg. flare something that is pretty common, as far as finding an adapter to go to -AN fittings? I don't have a flaring tool, so I need to buy one. Is the fuel line going to require a single, or a double flare? Can I pick up a flaring tool to do this at Home Depot?

What is the option, if there is one, for re-installing the factory fitting, and making a factory connection, just farther back.

Scott

 

Stock line is non seamless, it requires a double flare. Look at the imperial eastman 400F and then look at the price tag. You can't do this with a cheap china tool. The cheapest source for a tool that would do it is most likely aircraft spruce

The factory setup is an o ring connection, it requies an even more expensive swage tool.

 

I'll buy the good flare kit. I don't have one, and have needed one on several occasions, and now this really justifies it for me. It figures the factory setup would be more, but I thought I'd ask.

There is a industrial tool house here in Corpus (weekend house), they likely have one there. It's where I bought my bottom taps and all of the quality tools I need.

Thanks!

 

Does anyone know where to get the adapter to fit the 9th injector hole?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY...item3a585b85e2

This kit, has the block off plate, plus the fittings to run custom fuel lines.

 

I bought mine just last week from Street & Performance. I got the fittings that convert the cold start injector (~$14) and regulator (~$24) outlets to 6an. Give them a call and they'll hook you up.

 

Thank You!!

I googled street and performance, and there were several sites that came up. I even pm'd someone from this thread for info, but he was too busy to help. It sucks when you have a $14.00 part you can't find holding up progress.

Thanks again, you really helped me out!!

 

here is street & performance site http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ page 62 part 6 and 6a are what I used and drilled and taped front of pass. rail for a pipe plug.

 

You know those 2 hard lines that come off the fuel rail hardlines?
Can you change those to flexible lines? Cause I bent one of mine today... And need a new line in a few weeks =(
It's the bottom one, (the one closest to the camera)

 

Yes, you have the 88+ lines there, there's an o ring seat flared end at the bottom too (frame rail), undo those and you have the same connections there as in your pic. Get a set of adapters and you're set. (On the 87 and earlier models the hard lines are a good bit longer, they run up almost to the brake master)

You'll need a 16mm x 1.5 female o-ring and a 14mm x 1.5 female O-ring to -6 adapter. (16mm = feed, 14 = return)

These are the fittings (w/ 145deg aeroquip hose ends screwed on, ignore those):


This is an 87 car, the later ones will have the lines go up a shorter length...idea is the same though

 

I dont want to run a new line all the way to the solid lines. I just need to reun from the fuel reail hard line to the rubber line... Do you possibly have one you can sell?

 

So why not replace the hard line section you mangled? I have some but I live in the Netherlands, shipping would be more than what a new or good used one costs over there. Maybe one of the sellers has one?

Your idea of running from the rail hard line to the stock rubber line, might as well run a single line all the way to the frame hard line. If you connect it to the rubber line you'll need 2 male 16x1.5 and 14x1.5 fittings, instead of the females. Hardly a difference.

 

Oh, I seee what youre saying. How much would that set me back to get the fittings and braided fuel line to run to the hardlines that run by the booster? HJopefully around $50....?

 

Fittings:
1x EAR-9894DBHERL $10.39
1x EAR-9894DBJERL $10.39

Summit hose & hose ends:
2x SUM-220687 90deg -6 hose end $13.95 ea
2x SUM-220690 straight -6 hose end $4.88 ea
1x SUM-230603 -6 hose, 3 ft (not sure if 3 feet cuts it, MEASURE) $14.95

so that's about 75 pop for both hoses.

 

So that's all i need to run from my fuel rail hardline to the hardline near the booster? you mean 2 x the braided line right?
Thanks for your help bro.
Does earl have black fittings by chance?

 

no 1x baided line. Measure how much you need. It's 3ft but they also have a 6ft roll for less than double that. If you need more than 3ft buy that. You have to cut the line yourself and put the hose ends on.

Summit has the fittings in black, the hose too (the black nylon hose is easier to work with too! doesn't cut fingers and can be cut with scissors and doesn't fray as easily). I have never seen the adapter fittings in black, only blue and bare alu.

This is using Russell ProClassic hose, didn't know summit had theirs in braided all black too: (SUM-240603 for 3 ft), similar to what you'd end up with minus the pumbing for the FMU and not going to the rear of the fuel line (custom minram setup)

 

Okay, sweet. How do I put the hose ends on to the braided line? Or nylon line?

 

K, is this schematic right?
14mm adaptor > 6an straight hose end > braided hose > 6an 90 degree hose end > 14 mm adaptor

16mm adaptor > 6an straight hose end > braided hose > 6an 90 degree hose end > 16mm adaptor

 

You unscrew the rear from the assembly, put it in a socket on a ratchet and set the ratchet to turn counter clockwise. Hold the hose with one hand and with the ratchet whilst turning CCW "screw" the hose on. The ratchet allows you to get more grip on the collar/socket part of the hose end. Check if the hose is fully seated but not protruding into the fine thread where the front part of the hose end screws into. it must be completely clear or you will strip out the threads. Start the pointed end into the collar, inserting it into the rubber hose. Apply a little lube to the threads and with a set of spanners assemble it all. I like to use box end spanners and an wrenches as not to damage the fittings. The black ones take a lot more abuse than the colored anodized ones. if using box ends just make sure you can remove it later on. Some assemblies have a larger B-nut (the end that screws into the AN fitting) so if you slip on a box end wrench you have a problem.

Watch this, the sharp chisel is only applicable for steel braided hose, not needed for the black hose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDSozy6MZto&eurl=

This guy puts the collar in the vise, if you want to scratch it, do that. This is where I use the sockets. If using anodized I spray a bunch of thick lube into the socket so it helps avoiding scratches. Where he screws the hose in clockwise, that's why I recommend doing it with the ratchet CCW! You will not have the collar flop around like this guy has it in the vise. You have the whole ratchet in your hand to control it with good leverage. Holding just the collar in your hand will give you cramps sooner or later. Also, the way this guy screws it on with the hose, it's next to impossible to see if the hose slips out. Use the vid for reference to see how it goes together. I don't approve of that method (I have assembled countless hoses, have used it all, aeroquip, russell, earls, xrp, KB, fragola, summit & jegs brand, goodridge)

The summit or jegs ends are more than adequate for this kind of stuff, no need to spend money on expensive XRP or Aeroquip ends.

 

Oops, I forgot 2 fittings. You'll need a 14mmx1.5 male to -6 male and a 16mmx1.5 male to -6 male too, this is for the engine side. That would bring the total close to $100 for 2 lines.

These:
EAR-991955ERL
EAR-991954ERL

fuel rail:14mm/16mm male to -6 male -> -6 90 deg hose end -> hose -> -6 straight hose end -> 14/16mm female to -6 male frame rail.

You can use a 45 deg. one on the frame rail side, it may help you get a straight shot over to the engine, they are almost triple the money though (around $14)

Once assembled however, you can flip the hose either way, one end 90 deg. one end straight flip it around and it's the other way around since there is a female to male connection on both ends

 

Cant I run the adaptor to a straight hose end, then to the hose, so I don't have to do the 90 degree stuff?