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Acessing intake base bolts

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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 06:38 PM
  #1  
SBlackfoot's Avatar
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From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Car: '90 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73's
Acessing intake base bolts

My car has developed a surging idle. Disconnecting the IAC while running didn't help, it still surges. So, I went checking for vacuum leaks and found the surging to get worse when I sprayed the base-to-head running for cylinder #1. Before tearing it down to replace that gasket I'd like to try to tighten those two intake bolts (front two, left side of engine) just to see if they've worked loose over the past seventeen years, but I can't see any way of accessing them. Do I have to take the TB, plenum, and runners off (and possibly the thermostat housing) just to torque those two bolts? If so I might as well save some time and tear it right down and replace the gaskets while it's already half way there. It still has the factory button head Torx bolts (or are they allen head? It's too dark to go double check). I might try a Torx screwdriver bit and a wrench but I can't see that working out too well. Any suggestions?
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Old Sep 16, 2006 | 07:04 PM
  #2  
fire350tpi's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 709
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From: Middleboro, MA
Car: 1988 Pontiac trans am/gta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23's
probly the easiest way is to just take out the TB plenum and then just get a straight line to the bolts, if not runners gotta come out


Because IMO its faster/easier to get them while its of then trying to get it with swivels etc
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 08:29 AM
  #3  
MikeInAZ's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 735
Likes: 2
From: Portales, NM USA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
You mention no trouble codes. If you have a vacuum leak big enough to cause a problem you'll have a Code 44. You can pretty much bet the bolts have loosened over the life of the car. Another quick check is if the bolts you "can" get to have loosened... the ones you "can't" get to probably have as well.

At any rate just getting it over with is better than nickel and diming yourself with unneeded parts and labor. I spent 500 bucks and 10 months chasing a vacuum leak only to find out it was loose intake bolts. Tightened up the bolts and no codes for 6 years now.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 01:12 PM
  #4  
charris's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 20
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From: Versailles, KY
Car: 1978 C10
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
The heads on the bolts are Torx 40.
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Old Sep 17, 2006 | 08:09 PM
  #5  
SBlackfoot's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 859
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From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Car: '90 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73's
No CES light, although I probably should check for codes anyway. Good idea checking the other bolts for a quick test. Those Torx bolts look pretty and all, but a regular bolt would be so much easier.

I may wind up ripping the intake off over the winter and replacing all of the gaskets. Might as well, with the intake out of the way it might be a good time to pull the valve covers and replace the valve stem seals.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 02:19 AM
  #6  
Lucid's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 813
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From: San Antonio, Tx
Car: 86 Camaro Z28/ 87 Camaro IROC Z28
Engine: 5.0L TPI LB9 / 5.0 TPI LB9 w/cam
Transmission: Built 700R4 with Transgo shift kit
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt Posi/ 2.73 10 bolt Posi
I was just about to post this same question. I have a TPI and i hear a hissing sound on the front passenger side of the engine. I spray carb cleaner around the intake base and it smoothes out. Sometimes it runs a little rough, and feels like a vacuum leak, and sometimes it runs like a bat out of hell. The check engine light doesnt come on. I guess ill have to pull the TB off and see if i can get to the bolts. I tried with a torx set from advanced but those hex's on the bottom are lots of fun to get to.
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