More power
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 85
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Car: 87 trans am WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
More power
I just recently bought an 87 trans am and am looking to get some more power out of it withought blowing too much cash. my model is a fuel injected v8 5.0 and already gets pretty good speed but i want some more off the line speed and torque. Any good ideas?
Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 164
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From: Pine Bush, NY
Car: 88 trans am, and 06 focus DOHC
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.56 screaming pave eating :-)
definately bigger gears will help i have 4.56 posi rear in my 88 trans am and it runs like a SOB
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From: Syracuse, NY
Car: 1992 z28
Engine: carb 355
Transmission: wc T-5
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi 10 bolt
is it TBI or TPI? Also... is it all stock? Any bolt-ons?
If your looking for cheap, easy mods, I would start with opening up your intake a bit...(for TPI gut out your air box and throttle body air foil)
Then move to exhaust...gut out your cat, etc.
Another thing you can do if you'd like is advance you're timing a few degrees
That stuff should give you a bit more ummff
If your looking for cheap, easy mods, I would start with opening up your intake a bit...(for TPI gut out your air box and throttle body air foil)
Then move to exhaust...gut out your cat, etc.
Another thing you can do if you'd like is advance you're timing a few degrees
That stuff should give you a bit more ummff
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From: Avatar: My 34' 1989 Scarab III w/ twin 454's (502's Started!)
Car: 1989 Wellcraft Scarab III
Engine: Twin 454's
Axle/Gears: Twin Mercruiser Bravo I's
Moving to TPI board where you should get better results.
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From: south Louisiana
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 85 L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock 10 bolt-3.73 eaten posi
to start, no throdle body!!! (its a waste of money, trust me i know)
K&N filters gut your air box . no more than 10* of timeing.(remember tpi's do all of there work down low) and a cat back. if you have the money after that get some headers. a custom tune will do wonders also.
IF YOU PLAN ON BRINGING IT TO THE TRACK, GET SOME SUBFRAME CONNECTORS BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!! even if you dont its a great investment.
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From: Victoria BC Canada
Car: 87 Camaro IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
you can bypass the throddle body coolant, run it from the heater core straight into the intake, that increased my throddle response. get and adjustable fuel press regulator and you can accurately set your fuel press. lets see...other cheap mods...get on of those throddle body air flow pieces...cut away the cat. run with 94 pump octane(you can be cheap and get the 87 pump octane but you have to use the fuel injector cleaner too, and its cheaper for me to run the high octane fuel). oh you can also use a high flow MAF sensor, they are fully adjustable fo adjust for rich/lean and flow like 40% more air than the stock one(without removing the screen)
i guess it depends on how much you wanna spend...mayb 2000? you can upgrade your exhaust with headers. and mayb port your runners. mayb you can also get a multi spark module.
really thers no suck thing as a cheap mod.
adjustable fuel press regulator: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...46141_-1_11175
air foil thingy: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...46171_-1_11175
adjustbale MAF sensor: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...56613_-1_11175
multispark module: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...47792_-1_11191
i guess it depends on how much you wanna spend...mayb 2000? you can upgrade your exhaust with headers. and mayb port your runners. mayb you can also get a multi spark module.
really thers no suck thing as a cheap mod.
adjustable fuel press regulator: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...46141_-1_11175
air foil thingy: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...46171_-1_11175
adjustbale MAF sensor: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...56613_-1_11175
multispark module: http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...47792_-1_11191
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 365
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From: Melbourne,Fl
Car: 1989 TRANS AM GTA
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: BW 3.27
Long tube headers 130-150 "check summit"
Cat-back without cats unless you get tested "250-300"
afpr 80-100
air foil 25-50
coil and module around 100 for both
cam 150-300 depending on brand and kit
If you are thifty you can get all of that for a 1000 or less and that would make a huge difference in power i spent 40 bucks on my cold air kit by taking out the charcaol canister and cutting a hole and having a 3 exhaust pipe bent to relocate the k/n filter behind the fog light then i sprayed it with a shiny coat of high temp engine paint"black" it looks good and saved me alot of money then you can do the hot water bypass and bump the timing and you will be very pleased with what you have and surprise alot of people that will give you crap over having just a "305" when all they see is your rearend...lol
Cat-back without cats unless you get tested "250-300"
afpr 80-100
air foil 25-50
coil and module around 100 for both
cam 150-300 depending on brand and kit
If you are thifty you can get all of that for a 1000 or less and that would make a huge difference in power i spent 40 bucks on my cold air kit by taking out the charcaol canister and cutting a hole and having a 3 exhaust pipe bent to relocate the k/n filter behind the fog light then i sprayed it with a shiny coat of high temp engine paint"black" it looks good and saved me alot of money then you can do the hot water bypass and bump the timing and you will be very pleased with what you have and surprise alot of people that will give you crap over having just a "305" when all they see is your rearend...lol
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Car: 87 trans am WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
I havent really got much time to drive since i just got it registered but how fast do you think this car is compared to other cars on the road today (305) and how much would gutting out the air box and bumping the timing belt help me alone?
Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
From: Pine Bush, NY
Car: 88 trans am, and 06 focus DOHC
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.56 screaming pave eating :-)
gutting the air box and putting a k & n filter will give u much more air into the motor
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From: Victoria BC Canada
Car: 87 Camaro IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
camaros are a pretty fast car on the streets...i know i can rape those honduhs left right and centre, mustangs, all kinds of cars...thats why i always travel in the merge lane to pass all those hosers. the only thing ive done to my car is put in the fuel press regulator and the airfoil thingy and the throddle body bypass.
EDIT: i lost to a 240z once but i ran outta road so i had to let him go past so i could merge...im still pissed about that guy
EDIT: i lost to a 240z once but i ran outta road so i had to let him go past so i could merge...im still pissed about that guy
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,386
Likes: 2
From: Toronto CANADA - GM Parts Rep.
Car: 1987 Iroc Z28
Engine: The KING of the 3rd gen TPI's.
Transmission: Beefed up T5
Axle/Gears: Aussie 3.45's
camaros are a pretty fast car on the streets...i know i can rape all kinds of cars...thats why i always travel in the merge lane to pass all those hosers. the only thing ive done to my car is put in the fuel press regulator and the airfoil thingy and the throddle body bypass.
----------
Simply drive it off a bridge
Last edited by freestylzz; Jan 10, 2007 at 10:27 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
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From: Victoria BC Canada
Car: 87 Camaro IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
no i think the asian dudes only have K&N filters and some h-core body kits. but i like to pretend they have straight 6 skyline engines.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 793
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Richmond 3.73
Well I have an 87 that I just modded pretty well.
1st thing you need is a good set of spark plugs, spark plug wires, Cap, rotor, and coil.
2nd get a different intake, there are post on here where ppl have made there own. I spent the money and bought the SLP cold air induction kit.
3rd, headers and a nice exhaust.
4th, depends on the funds. I spent $860.00 on a Richmond 3.73 gear. I had to update to a series 3 carrior.
5th, New or ported intake, new or ported Plenum, new or ported runners.
6th New cam (roller cams new are at least $250.00) Mine was $280.00.
New springs, New Valve seals, Adjustable fuel pressure reg., new timing chain and gear.
Get a good tune done. My lil 305 runs pretty good.
Any questions just ask me, ive done all this in the last 18 months on my car.
1st thing you need is a good set of spark plugs, spark plug wires, Cap, rotor, and coil.
2nd get a different intake, there are post on here where ppl have made there own. I spent the money and bought the SLP cold air induction kit.
3rd, headers and a nice exhaust.
4th, depends on the funds. I spent $860.00 on a Richmond 3.73 gear. I had to update to a series 3 carrior.
5th, New or ported intake, new or ported Plenum, new or ported runners.
6th New cam (roller cams new are at least $250.00) Mine was $280.00.
New springs, New Valve seals, Adjustable fuel pressure reg., new timing chain and gear.
Get a good tune done. My lil 305 runs pretty good.
Any questions just ask me, ive done all this in the last 18 months on my car.
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Posts: 339
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From: North Battleford, Saskatchewan, Canada
Car: 91 GTA & 92 GTA & 92 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI & 350 TPI & 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 & 3.23 & 3.23
You can check out my sig for some ideas. Unfortunately, I didn't baseline my 91 GTA when it was stock but I estimate that my car would run a 15.8-15.9 at around 87 mph.
Senior Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
From: Northern California, Redding
Car: Red 1987 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.45
There's no way to get much more out of a 305 without spending lots of cash. Start by replacing the complete exhaust system, headers on back. Next install a 3.4X or 3.7X ring & pinion set. That should clean out your wallet for now, and make the car feel pretty fast off the line.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Car: 87 trans am WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
Thanks alot, my car is already pretty fast withought any mods, its not like a corvette or anything but basicly any sports car with a v8 is gonna have a good amount of speed, even if it is 15 years old, but to my surprise my car actually runs really good. I just want some more acceleration power so when these little rice burners wanna act tough at a red light and rev there little moded up 4 cylinders i can just step on the gas and blow past them. Would getting a custom tune and a higher set of gears make a big differance by itself?
Senior Member

Joined: May 2002
Posts: 845
Likes: 0
From: Northern California, Redding
Car: Red 1987 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.45
Unless you have a California car, or a G92 optioned car, you probably have a 2.73 gear set. Changing to a 3.4x (I think a 3.42 fits in the same carrier) would be the direction I'd go.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
From: Long Island
Car: 1985 Trans Am/ Recaro w/webbed headrests (AS5)?
Engine: Code F
Transmission: 700, shame, ain't it?
Axle/Gears: 3.27 Borg-Warner posi
K&N intake mod
check out this page http://87tagta.tripod.com/coldair.htm I like the idea, it's simple and cheap. Get rid of the coolant flowing through you throttle body as well. A nice Flowmaster muffler is an affordable item, and so is an Accel coil. Definitely program your own chip, unless you only want to spend about $150.00 once, then a Hypertech chip is out there. The differences are marginal from a stock chip, but if you don't want to DIY, it's a feasible solution, but most people will tell you DIY. Stock chips bring the fan on at 220, which sucks!! Aftermarket and DIY chips can do better. Also, I don't know what kind of reaction I'll get from this suggestion, but I get great response from going down to the local Mobil station on an almost empty tank and getting 3 gallons of Cam2 (110) for twenty bucks, then pouring 11 gallons of 93 over it. (Don't want to burn the exhaust valves) Smells sweet, and BURNS REALLY NICE... It usually runs about 180, and the fan doesn't come on at all. Water pump and radiator are sufficient. (I don't drive it every day)Of course, I don't have plastic tanks on mine, a heavy duty radiator is usually a good investment. Also, pick up a Haynes manual, has all the basics, AND a table so you can figure out what kind of rear you have. Remember, SEARCH the 'net thoroughly. There's all kinds of info out there if you look...
Last edited by crapper_mekanic; Jan 11, 2007 at 06:03 PM.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 1,940
Likes: 2
From: Glendale, AZ
Car: 4 Mopars total
Engine: Pentastar power
Transmission: T/F and New Process
Axle/Gears: Three 8 3/4's & one 9 1/4
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 793
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Richmond 3.73
ouch for sure!! That 1st gear must be a killer with a 700r4! LOL!!
Anything over a 3.0x gear ( i think its a 3.02) is a series 2 carrior.You have to jump up to a series 3 carrior for anything higher. I love my 3.73 gear. Its a fun gear!
Anything over a 3.0x gear ( i think its a 3.02) is a series 2 carrior.You have to jump up to a series 3 carrior for anything higher. I love my 3.73 gear. Its a fun gear!
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 765
Likes: 1
From: Chico/Antioch California
Car: 1989 iroc Z Hardtop
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
ever 3.7x's are a little high for a tpi car. 3.2x's-3.4x's seem to work best.
There are a TON of tech articles on the main page that anyone just starting with a tpi car should read.
There are a TON of tech articles on the main page that anyone just starting with a tpi car should read.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 8,494
Likes: 414
From: Sophia, NC
Car: 2016 Camaro SS + 1986 Z28
OK, don't wanna be cranky, but the amount of CRAP spewed forth in this thread is insane. I just couldn't allow this to stay here on TGO without throwin' out some knowledge.
First and foremost, sounds like you have a pretty nice car!
Nothing wrong with a 305.
Most late model imports and mustangs and f-bodies and trucks, heck pretty much anything can run with a thirdgen L98 (350 TPI), let alone the LB9 (305 TPI). No shame there, be proud of what you have, but also be realistic.
Absolute insanity. Horrible idea. Those gears would get you about 50 feet, and then you're out of gear, assuming you can even get traction. TPI motors LOVE tall gears (numerically lower) not deep (higher) gears. ...but you do "probably" have a 2.73 or 2.77 gear. A nice 3.23 or 3.27 would be great, or possibly even a 3.42/3.45. I believe the 2 series carrier accomodates up to a 3.08 gear (not 100%), but regardless, of what carrier, or what rear, a GREAT bang for the buck would be to find a Borg Warner 9 Bolt with a 3.27 gear and PBR rear discs. With the PBR rear discs, you're probably lookin' to spend around $300. Just swap the whole darn thing, and step up your rear end strength, gear ratio, and brakes.
Bypassing the throttle body is certainly not a BAD mod, it's not gonna make a big difference either. I surprised anyone can actually "feel" the difference. Not a bad mod though.
The throttle body "airfoil"? Sure, if you can find one for free, but don't waste your money.
Cutting away the cat won't make a big difference unless the entire exhaust system is upgraded, and then you have to worry about emissions/inspections and all that crap. Bad idea? No, not really, but It's not the answer he's looking for I don't think.
I don't think you can actually do any porting on the stock runners. The manifold and plenum sure, but not the runners. And even still, that will add upper RPM power, but not low end grunt like he's looking for.
The MSD unit? Again, not a BAD mod, but it's not gonna be a real seat of the pants thing. They'll help fuel mileage a little maybe, and MIGHT add a little throttle response, but most people with stock or mild engines don't actually "feel" anything. But hey, ya never know.
Long tubes? On a 305? On a TPI? -No. - Headers are a GREAT idea, but pick up a set of 1 and 5/8" shorties of the classifieds for cheap and be done with it.
Air foil? See above.
Cam? Sure, but that doesn't sound like the type of work this guys looking for. I could be wrong though. A cam is a good idea, but remember, you'll need tuning, so it's not as simple as a cam and lifter kit.
Ditching the charcoal canister? Do you know WHY there's charcoal canister? Would you remove the radiator? How 'bout the brakes? It's not in there so you can grill burgers ya know? It CAN be done properly, but if you're gonna throw it out there, explain what it's for and why you're doin' it, and how to do it properly so your fuel system keeps working. I realize some people have done it without issue, but there's a difference between doing it on your car and suggesting someone else do it. ...but this guy's got a Camaro, so he already has a cold air intake, so no need to change anything. K&N's are a good thing though.
MAF? Totally not needed. Heads, intake, exhaust, cam, computer, ALL need to be changed/upgraded before the MAF becomes a restriction.
Good post. I love step one, I totally agree.
Step two- again, it's a camaro, it's got cold air, just get some good filters.
Step three- Totally agree. The exhaust is a major restriction.
Setp four- gears are good, but seems pricey. I like my idea above better.
Step five. Cool, I'm with ya, but like I mentioned, this guys looking for grunt off the line. Still, in the beginning stages of modding, power is power, right?
Step six- Cams are good. The question is really budget I think.
New valve train is a good tune up idea too.
You'd feel it, yes, but I wouldn't say it'd bea big difference. You tell me, are you gettin' smoked by 75 feet, or are you losin' by half a car length?
Again, gears are good. A 3.42/3.45 gear will require a new carrier, if you currently have a 2.77/2.73 gear. See my 9 bolt swap idea.
Don't go Flowmaster. Their crossflow design (OE) doesn't flow well at all, get a different brand.
Programming your own chips is great, but requires quite a bit of research and trial and error. GREAT idea, but it doesn't seem feasible in this case. With that in mind, Hypertech is NOTa reasonible alternative. They are WAY too pricey for hardly any real benefit. Your best bet would have it dyno tuned at local speed shop. If not possible, try PCM for less, or Superchips. Those aren't tuned to your car specifically, but they're a lot better than the Hypertech or JET type chips, and often they're a bit less expensive.
Here's my two cents:
First and foremost, tune the car up. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fluids, all the regular stuff. That should be a given. K&N filters are cool too. Very possible to feel a difference. You can remove the baffles under the air filters too. That'll help. We really need to know what you're capable of, and what your budget is to further. The coolant bypass really isn't that big of a deal, but of course, it's all but free. Might as well do it. Exhaust is probably the next step. At the very least, get a catback system. Headers would be even better. Like I mentioned earlier, the 9 bolt swap is great, and it's a bolt-in mod. That'll improve your gear ratio. You'll feel it too. What kind of tranny are you runnin', 700R4 automatic? Maybe a budget 2200 stall converter? That made a HUGE seat of the pants difference for my car.
If you did a complete tune up, did a few "free" mods, and added a better exhaust system, you'd feel the difference, no doubt. Then gears, then torque converter. NO DOUBT you notice a HUGE difference, and you still won't have really even got to the motor. PLUS, all those mods will still be beneficial if you decide to make and major motor changes.
There are a thousand different ways to go, and there are really not many wrong answers. A few mentioned here, but most aren't wrong per se. I harped a little on the coolant TB bypass and the airfoil. It's not that they're wrong, but they just won't help much. I know, I know, they all add up, and they do, but just understand what helps, and what HELPS!
Hopefully that "helped".
First and foremost, sounds like you have a pretty nice car!
Nothing wrong with a 305.Most late model imports and mustangs and f-bodies and trucks, heck pretty much anything can run with a thirdgen L98 (350 TPI), let alone the LB9 (305 TPI). No shame there, be proud of what you have, but also be realistic.
definately bigger gears will help i have 4.56 posi rear in my 88 trans am and it runs like a SOB
you can bypass the throddle body coolant, run it from the heater core straight into the intake, that increased my throddle response. get and adjustable fuel press regulator and you can accurately set your fuel press. lets see...other cheap mods...get on of those throddle body air flow pieces...cut away the cat. run with 94 pump octane(you can be cheap and get the 87 pump octane but you have to use the fuel injector cleaner too, and its cheaper for me to run the high octane fuel). oh you can also use a high flow MAF sensor, they are fully adjustable fo adjust for rich/lean and flow like 40% more air than the stock one(without removing the screen)
i guess it depends on how much you wanna spend...mayb 2000? you can upgrade your exhaust with headers. and mayb port your runners. mayb you can also get a multi spark module.
i guess it depends on how much you wanna spend...mayb 2000? you can upgrade your exhaust with headers. and mayb port your runners. mayb you can also get a multi spark module.
The throttle body "airfoil"? Sure, if you can find one for free, but don't waste your money.
Cutting away the cat won't make a big difference unless the entire exhaust system is upgraded, and then you have to worry about emissions/inspections and all that crap. Bad idea? No, not really, but It's not the answer he's looking for I don't think.
I don't think you can actually do any porting on the stock runners. The manifold and plenum sure, but not the runners. And even still, that will add upper RPM power, but not low end grunt like he's looking for.
The MSD unit? Again, not a BAD mod, but it's not gonna be a real seat of the pants thing. They'll help fuel mileage a little maybe, and MIGHT add a little throttle response, but most people with stock or mild engines don't actually "feel" anything. But hey, ya never know.
Long tube headers 130-150 "check summit"
Cat-back without cats unless you get tested "250-300"
afpr 80-100
air foil 25-50
coil and module around 100 for both
cam 150-300 depending on brand and kit
If you are thifty you can get all of that for a 1000 or less and that would make a huge difference in power i spent 40 bucks on my cold air kit by taking out the charcaol canister and cutting a hole and having a 3 exhaust pipe bent to relocate the k/n filter behind the fog light then i sprayed it with a shiny coat of high temp engine paint"black" it looks good and saved me alot of money then you can do the hot water bypass and bump the timing and you will be very pleased with what you have and surprise alot of people that will give you crap over having just a "305" when all they see is your rearend...lol
Cat-back without cats unless you get tested "250-300"
afpr 80-100
air foil 25-50
coil and module around 100 for both
cam 150-300 depending on brand and kit
If you are thifty you can get all of that for a 1000 or less and that would make a huge difference in power i spent 40 bucks on my cold air kit by taking out the charcaol canister and cutting a hole and having a 3 exhaust pipe bent to relocate the k/n filter behind the fog light then i sprayed it with a shiny coat of high temp engine paint"black" it looks good and saved me alot of money then you can do the hot water bypass and bump the timing and you will be very pleased with what you have and surprise alot of people that will give you crap over having just a "305" when all they see is your rearend...lol
Air foil? See above.
Cam? Sure, but that doesn't sound like the type of work this guys looking for. I could be wrong though. A cam is a good idea, but remember, you'll need tuning, so it's not as simple as a cam and lifter kit.
Ditching the charcoal canister? Do you know WHY there's charcoal canister? Would you remove the radiator? How 'bout the brakes? It's not in there so you can grill burgers ya know? It CAN be done properly, but if you're gonna throw it out there, explain what it's for and why you're doin' it, and how to do it properly so your fuel system keeps working. I realize some people have done it without issue, but there's a difference between doing it on your car and suggesting someone else do it. ...but this guy's got a Camaro, so he already has a cold air intake, so no need to change anything. K&N's are a good thing though.
MAF? Totally not needed. Heads, intake, exhaust, cam, computer, ALL need to be changed/upgraded before the MAF becomes a restriction.
Well I have an 87 that I just modded pretty well.
1st thing you need is a good set of spark plugs, spark plug wires, Cap, rotor, and coil.
2nd get a different intake, there are post on here where ppl have made there own. I spent the money and bought the SLP cold air induction kit.
3rd, headers and a nice exhaust.
4th, depends on the funds. I spent $860.00 on a Richmond 3.73 gear. I had to update to a series 3 carrior.
5th, New or ported intake, new or ported Plenum, new or ported runners.
6th New cam (roller cams new are at least $250.00) Mine was $280.00.
New springs, New Valve seals, Adjustable fuel pressure reg., new timing chain and gear.
1st thing you need is a good set of spark plugs, spark plug wires, Cap, rotor, and coil.
2nd get a different intake, there are post on here where ppl have made there own. I spent the money and bought the SLP cold air induction kit.
3rd, headers and a nice exhaust.
4th, depends on the funds. I spent $860.00 on a Richmond 3.73 gear. I had to update to a series 3 carrior.
5th, New or ported intake, new or ported Plenum, new or ported runners.
6th New cam (roller cams new are at least $250.00) Mine was $280.00.
New springs, New Valve seals, Adjustable fuel pressure reg., new timing chain and gear.
Step two- again, it's a camaro, it's got cold air, just get some good filters.
Step three- Totally agree. The exhaust is a major restriction.
Setp four- gears are good, but seems pricey. I like my idea above better.
Step five. Cool, I'm with ya, but like I mentioned, this guys looking for grunt off the line. Still, in the beginning stages of modding, power is power, right?
Step six- Cams are good. The question is really budget I think.
New valve train is a good tune up idea too.
Would getting a custom tune and a higher set of gears make a big differance by itself?
Unless you have a California car, or a G92 optioned car, you probably have a 2.73 gear set. Changing to a 3.4x (I think a 3.42 fits in the same carrier) would be the direction I'd go.
A nice Flowmaster muffler is an affordable item, and so is an Accel coil. Definitely program your own chip, unless you only want to spend about $150.00 once, then a Hypertech chip is out there. The differences are marginal from a stock chip, but if you don't want to DIY, it's a feasible solution,
Programming your own chips is great, but requires quite a bit of research and trial and error. GREAT idea, but it doesn't seem feasible in this case. With that in mind, Hypertech is NOTa reasonible alternative. They are WAY too pricey for hardly any real benefit. Your best bet would have it dyno tuned at local speed shop. If not possible, try PCM for less, or Superchips. Those aren't tuned to your car specifically, but they're a lot better than the Hypertech or JET type chips, and often they're a bit less expensive.
Here's my two cents:
First and foremost, tune the car up. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fluids, all the regular stuff. That should be a given. K&N filters are cool too. Very possible to feel a difference. You can remove the baffles under the air filters too. That'll help. We really need to know what you're capable of, and what your budget is to further. The coolant bypass really isn't that big of a deal, but of course, it's all but free. Might as well do it. Exhaust is probably the next step. At the very least, get a catback system. Headers would be even better. Like I mentioned earlier, the 9 bolt swap is great, and it's a bolt-in mod. That'll improve your gear ratio. You'll feel it too. What kind of tranny are you runnin', 700R4 automatic? Maybe a budget 2200 stall converter? That made a HUGE seat of the pants difference for my car.
If you did a complete tune up, did a few "free" mods, and added a better exhaust system, you'd feel the difference, no doubt. Then gears, then torque converter. NO DOUBT you notice a HUGE difference, and you still won't have really even got to the motor. PLUS, all those mods will still be beneficial if you decide to make and major motor changes.
There are a thousand different ways to go, and there are really not many wrong answers. A few mentioned here, but most aren't wrong per se. I harped a little on the coolant TB bypass and the airfoil. It's not that they're wrong, but they just won't help much. I know, I know, they all add up, and they do, but just understand what helps, and what HELPS!
Hopefully that "helped".
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Victoria BC Canada
Car: 87 Camaro IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
mayb we should be asking him how much he wants to pay and what he wants from the car? a street/strip application or just a daily driver with some pazaaz?
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Car: 1987 IROC 1991 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI 5.0 TBI
Transmission: T-5 , 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 twice
First of all I have to say congradulations on the good laughs.
My day is a little brighter. There are stickies for you guys that post some vague answers. Undoubtedly the best mods to start with without a doubt is the exhaust; start with some headers, long tubes on a 305 might be a little overkill unless your pulling out some serious numbers. On a stock motor, cheap bolt-on for more bang for the buck. But ONLY after it is running right; better to have a good running motor before modding the crap outta it (plugs, wires, rotor, cap, oil, fuel filter, air filter, adjust timing, you get the point). Then start with the mods. Mnorton and Abubaca have great advice, take some notes.
My day is a little brighter. There are stickies for you guys that post some vague answers. Undoubtedly the best mods to start with without a doubt is the exhaust; start with some headers, long tubes on a 305 might be a little overkill unless your pulling out some serious numbers. On a stock motor, cheap bolt-on for more bang for the buck. But ONLY after it is running right; better to have a good running motor before modding the crap outta it (plugs, wires, rotor, cap, oil, fuel filter, air filter, adjust timing, you get the point). Then start with the mods. Mnorton and Abubaca have great advice, take some notes.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 793
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Richmond 3.73
just for reference 3.08 is the largest you can go with a series 2 carrier.
You have a 2.72 now. Its not worth the $$ to update to a 3.08 gear.
Swap the whole diff. Or upgrade to a series 3 carrier. Rule of thumb 3.73 for autos. 4.11 for manuals.
If your plan on racing at the drag strips and you have a 3.73, you will still be at the end of your 3rd gear at the end of the 1/4 mile.
Glad we made you laugh ResurrectingZ.....but you just repeated what almost everyone els said.
You have a 2.72 now. Its not worth the $$ to update to a 3.08 gear.
Swap the whole diff. Or upgrade to a series 3 carrier. Rule of thumb 3.73 for autos. 4.11 for manuals.
If your plan on racing at the drag strips and you have a 3.73, you will still be at the end of your 3rd gear at the end of the 1/4 mile.
Glad we made you laugh ResurrectingZ.....but you just repeated what almost everyone els said.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 8,494
Likes: 414
From: Sophia, NC
Car: 2016 Camaro SS + 1986 Z28
Rule of thumb 3.73 for autos. 4.11 for manuals.
....of course, the TPI itself is another concern. I don't have as much experience myself with this, but lots of guys are backing way off the deep gears with the TPI and getting better ETs, since you have less time in each gear with the long runners. Food for thought.
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
Car: 1987 IROC 1991 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI 5.0 TBI
Transmission: T-5 , 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 twice
[quote=tenpin842;3184144]Well I have an 87 that I just modded pretty well.
1st thing you need is a good set of spark plugs, spark plug wires, Cap, rotor, and coil.
2nd get a different intake, there are post on here where ppl have made there own. I spent the money and bought the SLP cold air induction kit.
quote]
Not to argue with your first thing in order, but I would rather put in a set of headers first to replace the restrictive stock exhaust manifolds than a CAI. Whats the point of letting it breath if it has to hold its breath? IMO on a stock motor the headers will net anywhere from 15-20hp that is an easy bolt-on over a CAI. The rest of your ideas I can agree with.
1st thing you need is a good set of spark plugs, spark plug wires, Cap, rotor, and coil.
2nd get a different intake, there are post on here where ppl have made there own. I spent the money and bought the SLP cold air induction kit.
quote]
Not to argue with your first thing in order, but I would rather put in a set of headers first to replace the restrictive stock exhaust manifolds than a CAI. Whats the point of letting it breath if it has to hold its breath? IMO on a stock motor the headers will net anywhere from 15-20hp that is an easy bolt-on over a CAI. The rest of your ideas I can agree with.
For gears, my personal thought is the 3.42s. I switched from a 3.42 to a 3.00 rear end, and let me tell you I HATE it. It only makes me about .2-.3 slower on the G-tech, but it makes it far funner to drive.
A better question may be what skills and tools do you have. If you're good with your hands, mechanically inclined and have the tools to back it up you're probably gonna be in a way different boat then someone who's paying to have stuff done (READ:TONS cheaper) and if it's not cheaper you're going to be investing in tools rather then labor which isn't bad on it's own. My costs were more then a bit lower when I started working on cars till I got outfitted decently and now they're a ton lower. You only buy tools once, you buy labor every time. Start small and work your way up, even a basic tune up is a good spot to start for someone that's never worked on an engine before. It's amazing how quick you'll build up confidence and start tackling progressively larger projects. Ask anyone around me, I'd say at least 80-90% of weekends I do at least SOME wrenching on my ride over the summer. Usually nothing HUGE but a little thing that may take an hour or two. In many cases it's not usually one or two big things but the dozen little ones you do that add up.
There are extensive guides on how to port heads, intakes and things of that nature (check my home page in my sig) IMHO that's gonna be among the cheapest HP/$. On this front, a good starter project is pulling the plenum off and porting it, if you install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator it's dumb NOT to do it. There's maybe $10 of gaskets involved in porting the plenum, and most people say they notice a difference. The TB coolant bypass is good too, nice simple project.
A better question may be what skills and tools do you have. If you're good with your hands, mechanically inclined and have the tools to back it up you're probably gonna be in a way different boat then someone who's paying to have stuff done (READ:TONS cheaper) and if it's not cheaper you're going to be investing in tools rather then labor which isn't bad on it's own. My costs were more then a bit lower when I started working on cars till I got outfitted decently and now they're a ton lower. You only buy tools once, you buy labor every time. Start small and work your way up, even a basic tune up is a good spot to start for someone that's never worked on an engine before. It's amazing how quick you'll build up confidence and start tackling progressively larger projects. Ask anyone around me, I'd say at least 80-90% of weekends I do at least SOME wrenching on my ride over the summer. Usually nothing HUGE but a little thing that may take an hour or two. In many cases it's not usually one or two big things but the dozen little ones you do that add up.
There are extensive guides on how to port heads, intakes and things of that nature (check my home page in my sig) IMHO that's gonna be among the cheapest HP/$. On this front, a good starter project is pulling the plenum off and porting it, if you install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator it's dumb NOT to do it. There's maybe $10 of gaskets involved in porting the plenum, and most people say they notice a difference. The TB coolant bypass is good too, nice simple project.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 85
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Car: 87 trans am WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
My dad and his buddy have a garage with every machine or tool ever made. I definetly have the resources to do it by myself, my dad used to be a mechanic and has done a few project cars to so im on good shape in that area.
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 562
Likes: 0
From: south Louisiana
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 85 L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: stock 10 bolt-3.73 eaten posi
i stand by what i said in my first post. and as far as the gearing is concerned.... 3.23 or 3.42s. for your case if you want to stay with your gear carrier, for money resons, the 3.08 will be a nice mod in its self. there is a big diff between 2.77 and 3.08. but judging from the amount of money your spending intake and exhaust. and maybe the stall (a 2200 stall will be more than enough) will give it a nice boot in the butt.
good luck, and most of all have fun doing it.

good luck, and most of all have fun doing it.
Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 365
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From: Melbourne,Fl
Car: 1989 TRANS AM GTA
Engine: 355 L98
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: BW 3.27
I won't argue that, but I also won't agree. It's really up for debate. For all intents and purposes, the 700r4 4th gear and T5 5th gear are the same. Not exactly, and they're are some closer ratio boxes, but for the most part they're the same. Both the 3.73 and 4.11 are too deep for anyone who mentioned "fuel economy". I drive on the highway quite a bit, and I'm spinning 'round 2800 at 75mph with a 3.27. I'd think 3.42/3.45 would be as deep as I'd go. Like I said, that's totally my opinion.
....of course, the TPI itself is another concern. I don't have as much experience myself with this, but lots of guys are backing way off the deep gears with the TPI and getting better ETs, since you have less time in each gear with the long runners. Food for thought.
....of course, the TPI itself is another concern. I don't have as much experience myself with this, but lots of guys are backing way off the deep gears with the TPI and getting better ETs, since you have less time in each gear with the long runners. Food for thought.
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