i have decided to go stainless steel braided line on my sending fuel line up to the motor because of the higher psi and the high volume and psi pump I will be putting in. I am planning on running this line from the sending unit all the way up to the engine, my question is should i connect the line into the exsisting rubber line loop that is near the ac compressor on my model, or should i just make my own loop with the line and then connect it up to the thing that looks like a block that the sending and return lines screw into that is just above the water pump? i figure just connect it up to the block since i wouldnt want to connect the new line up to old line that probably couldnt handle the pressure right!

 

the only reason those hoses are there is to allow flexibility because stock lines are hard-lines. so its just fine to route your lines directly to the fuel rails, just make sure they dont get caught up in anything and have them tied away properly.

 

yeah i know that but i figured i would just put a loop in there just in case, i am not right around my car right now but i dont know how it really works, i just know there is like a block that the hard lines screw into after the rubber section right above the water pump, know what i mean

 

does anybody have an imput

 

DONT KEEP THE RUBBER LINES OR THE BLOCK..Its useless for the reasons given... What you need to BUY is A $12 KIT FROM ACCELL,,It comes with 2 o-ring/AN conversion fittings... they screw right into the front of the manifold at the fuel rail... it converts from o-ring tube fitting to a -6 an fiting..

Not hard at all to do... and the less breaks/transitions the less the chances of leaks are.. Heck If I get a chance Ill look around my shop...I know I have the fittings and I might even still have the lines from when I did mine years ago...I could at least measure all of it.. I remember having to buy like a 90 deg -6 end and a 130deg -6 hose end to get the lines routed back cleanly...Ill try to find a pic... Mine looked like GM installed it..

 

cool, well i wasnt planning on doing the return line, not much psi will be going back, so you would do both lines, and yes those pictures would be great. how would you do the filter then, sort of an inline filter that just screws onto end of the line, or keep the stock style way of doing the filter

 

I had a -6 AN in line filter...It was just a cheap one...I dont remember who made it..I think it was a barry grant one. You want/NEED to do the return line... Otherwise youll be smoking fuel pumps in MINUTES.. ... I want to say I got some adaptor couplings from TPIS that did the Tank end.. It was some Saginaw o-ring female to -6Male AN fittings... Ill look for the stuff this weekend.. Im pretty sure I just removed everything and put it in a box when I scrapped my fuel system for a -12 weldon system..

 

my stock pump is running out, i am just trying to get myself set up to where i dont have to redo the pump again if i want to put a bigger engine in. Trying to do everything very nice like the braided lines, most of the old crap that i can eliminate would be best, and make it look professional. especially like things like the block you said to remove, tell me i am not right around my car, from the block, does it just go to the fuel rail then or what.
Another question for you, havent got an answer from anybody else, when you do the regulator, where are the gaskets for the runners at, are the gaskets between the runners and the manifold, or are they in between the plenum and the runners, the kit only comes with two, and on my forum that i started called fuel regulator i think, it shows a picture from someone showing me how i have to get the engine to look to do the regulator.

 

Its HARD to explain without PICS...

but Ill try...

Ill start at the engine and work backwwards...

The fuel rail has HARD metal lines coming out of it...They terminate at the front of the manifold with a flange with 2 fittings welded to it that METAL lines screw into... *****You unscrew those metal lines and add accell adaptors there>>>****** Back to the factory >>The metal lines come out of that and bend 90 down the drivers side of the engine.. they then connect to rubber hoses that take it to the drivers side frame rail...then it converts back to metal and goes all the way to the drivers side rear where there is another bracket/block thing(dont know the technical name) >>> then the hard Output and return line from the tank screw into that Plate>>>>*****You remove fuel hard tank lines from the plate and use the TPIS fittings I was talkiung about to adapt that to -6... then REMOVE all the metal garbage I just listed... then you run 2 -6 lines from the tank line converters>>>all the way to the engine...On the feed line you will break the line somewhere along the frame to mount in a filter... Once up to the engine compartment I ran mine further forward of the original rubber line area.. Securing the line to the rail with wire retainer clips...Screw on clips.. then I curve the lines towards the accell adaptors and put -90 ends on the -6 hose..and installed them to the fittings... MUCH MUCH cleaner.. the only metal line thats left is the 4" that come out of the tank attached to the adaptors... and the 2" of metal line that come off the rail...

At the same time I deleted my charcoal canister.. So I removed that line as well and the canister.. then I took the charcoal canister line and removed it UP to the tank.. I used a ing clamp to clamp on a import car fuel filter>>>Basically just to keep the fuel smell away ***it acts as a vent>>>so you want to muffle the smell...

I could go on for days about all the useless stuff I got rid of to clean up my engine compartment.. I redid all my wiring removing about #40 worth of useless wires etc..

 

if you could on the weekend, could you get me pictures or item numbers, i usually get most of my parts from summit, i was planning on getting my braided line from www.paragonperformance.com, but none of them have fittings on the end. I really want braided stainless steel, do you have braided lines, and if so the lines that you got, do they already have the fittings on them.

 

NO,,, you dont get it with fittings on the end.. You BUY HOSE, and buy fittings... Assembly is EASY... the instructions are on the hose box...It would be IMPOSSIBLE to buy it with fittings on it and not have tons of extra hose or not enough hose.. I basically Install the fitting on the fuel rail...Ran and secured my lines where I wanted them... Then I carefully marked the hose leaving just a small amount of slop for expansion/contraction>>>then removed the lines and cut on the marks and installed the fittings..

 

since i am doing both lines, how much line would you get and then add some extra just in case i need it for something else later. what fittings would you get -6 right you said

 

I got 20' of -6 hose
a -6filter
4 pcs -6 female straight connectors
and 2 PCS of -6 90 degree female connectors***SWIVEL TYPE..MUST GET SWIVEL TYPE...Its a LOT easier on 90's to use swivel than to try and build the hose with the perfect angle..
then the accell TPI fuel rail fitting kit
some fuel rail o-rings for the fittings(GM)
the TPIS adaptors for the rear..
and some home depot retainer clamps to hold the fuel line to the frame rail..

 

is there any reason to get other types of lines than -6, could you go to that website for me and click on fuel lines and see if they would be good enough

 

-6 is a SIZE.. thats slightly larger than stock size.. You buy larger when you need more FUEL... For instance My huge injectors and HUGE weldon pump utilize -12... but your stock fuel pump does not have the output to keep up with really large lines..

the brand does not matter just the size.. Also the Accell easy adaptors only come in -6. otherwise your opening up another can of worms with redoing your fuel rail..

Lets put it this way.. My Supercharged 355 did not need anything larger than -6..

 

Kenwood is there any way that you could give me links to summit of what these accel adapters look like and the tpis fittings as well

 

ok i found the accel fittings http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

could you just link me to the tpis fittings that connect onto the metal lines that come out of the sending unit.

 

Those units screw into your rubber lines which is bad- you'll have fittings all over the place. Just get these:
http://www.amstreetrod.com/9894DBHASR.php4

You need one of each (larger one is send, smaller is return). They screw onto your metal lines and you can run AN lines straight from there- its just one less connection than those fittings shown in a previous post and looks much cleaner.

 

don't forget your fuel filter.
this is the setup we used on my friends 82 Trans Am LT1 we built a few years ago,
-6AN fittings on sender (only shows one as we were waiting in the 5/16 adaptor)


-6AN filter


and the lines running under the car,

 

zepher you might know then, i was told that you couldnt run braided line for the entire system. someone told me that it is only meant to replace a section and use clamps to secure it. the blue and red fittings u use, how do they attach to the braided stainless steel lines, i was told that they arent made to attach to that kind of hose. i dont know what firebirdjosh is talking about, those fittings that i posted screw into the metal lines off your fuel rail not rubber lines. i was also told about some tpis fittings? they are used to convert the metal lines out of the sending unit to -6an hose, do you know anything about these fittings.

In other words i would like to know what size the metal lines are, so i can get an adapter to convert that size to -6an hose. link to summit would be better is possible. so they are two different sizes just like up near the fuel rail.

 

The metal lines are 3/8 and 5/16 and Earls and Russel both sell compression tube fittings that attach right onto the metal line and fit very very tight.

The Braided hose and Hose Ends can be run all the way from the tank to the engine, it's just expensive. The hose end is two peices, red part goes over the braided line and the blue part goes into the braided line and the red and blue parts screw together and make a very tight connection with the hose.

Our senders had high pressure rubber lines with clamps on them, nothign screwed into our senders.
Now, the fuel rail adaptors TPIS makes can be used at the hard lines in the engine bay as well as on the fuel rail so that you can uses Braided between there, whch will be fine.

This is what the tube adaptor looks like,


Here are most of the fittings we used on the 82,

I think that is about $300 in fittings and lines.

 

those compression fittings are only good for 15 psi

 

says who? they are good to 50PSI max pressure.

 

zepher, so the picture of the fittings that show the max pressure, you just screw them onto your metal sending unit lines and thats it. on the feed one, did you just cut the stock threaded fitting off and just put they on. they are only good for 50 psi? what kind of pump are you running then. i am going to run this one:http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D1630&FROM=MG
i know if says 100 psi max, so what would it run at then? whatever the fuel rail psi is set at?

 

I can't recall if there was a threaded end on the sender, I "believe" all 4 lines had rubber hoses on them.

We ran a Walbro 255/lph at 43psi (set at the regulator).

that pump you listed works fine. it will run at whatever your regulator is set to.

 

on my sending on, it has a threaded end at the end, and the other end is the fitting it screws into and then that turns into rubber then metal. the other three are rubber though. so you just screw them fittings on and that is it, just get the sizes that you need which is 3/8 and 5/16.

 

Does anyone have a labeled diagram or pic of the fuel lines coming off the tank. I might have crosssed my vent lines and need to make sure they attached right. My car is a 1987 350 5.7 ltr tpi.