Does anyone have any pictures of the way they moded their valve covers to work with 1.6 rollers?

 

Which rockers are you using? GMPP and Crane Gold 1.6 roller rockers do not require any modifications because they are built specifically for our application to fit.

Just check the clearance when you put the valve covers back on... mine did not require any modifications, a perfect fit. If you do need to modify the baffles on the bottom of the valve covers, simply use some tin snips or side cutter plies to cut the section away.. should be very simple and straight forward.

 

the local machine shop charged me 30 bucks to cut mine out

 

what are the pros and cons to 1.6 roller rockers on a stock motor? What kind of HP and torque gains are we talking about? Who's the best manufacturer?

Thanks!

 

Pros, more power. Cons, you'll be on the loud pedal harder, possibly reducing fuel milage.

Here is a thread with a stock car dynoed with 1.6 roller rockers and exhaust; https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...light=1.6+dyno

It wasn't the thread I was looking for.. there is a thread on the TPI forum somewhere where a guy with an absolutly stock TPI L98 went to the dyno. The next day he installed 1.6 roller rockers (and nothing else) and went back to the dyno. He had an impressive increase in both horsepower and torque. Wish I could find that thread now.. something like 10 or 12hp and 18tq if memory serves me correctly. And that is at the wheels.

Best manufacturer is subjective. As far as I know GM Performance Parts and Crane Gold's 1.6 roller rockers do not require any modifications to the stock valve covers and stock baffles to work, whereas other brands do. (the GMPP roller rockers are made by Crane)

 

I bought my 1.6 narrow body, self align roller rockers from CNC MotorSports, I think they're made in house for them or something. They're blue, CNC'd parts and they've worked great. I did no valve cover modification whatsoever.

 

Are you saying the only con is that I'll want to push the gas more?

 

thanks xxcoltxx - for the picture, but i can not see much. Do you have a picture of the inside? What does the inside of the baffle box look like? I would like to know what to cut before i start cutting

 

no im sorry,no before pic,once you pull it off and look at it youll understand what needs to be done,my rockers are wide body so I had to do it,or get new valve covers.If you havnt bought the rockers already Id do what these guys say and go with the crane gold,I went the cheaper route...basically just gut them out,bolt guides and all,just dont over tighten your vavle covers when you reinstall,with out the bolt guides they will flex inward if you over tighten them,causing the rockers to hit the covers

 

GMPP rockers:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...9&autoview=sku

The bottom says they're 1.5 stamped steel. The top says 1.6 aluminum. HMMM

Crane Gold:

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...=KeywordSearch

Do I want CRN-10758 or CRN-10759?

No clue what CNC ones to look at

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com

 

my post is going off corse - I want baffle help, I already have rockers. I am looking for pic's or good instructions to modify my baffles

 

Do you have guide plates in your heads? What people are showing you here is that you may need to change rockers. You can simply take a die grinder or a dremel to the baffles and cut them out.

Here's the 1.6's from CNC Motorsports you would need:
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...96&CtgID=14982

 

I am using stock ported heads with lt4 hotcam & springs. I just don't know what to expect when i cut the baffle. The baffle rubs a small amount on the side of the rockers where the swivle piece that bolts to the head. the arms them self clear

 

Be careful with this project. I did it on my stock 350, and not only had pushrod interference with the holes in the head, but upon taking the heads off, found a few of the valves had been kissing the pistons. I never expected the clearances to be that tight, since they're fairly low compression.

Good luck

TA