was wondering if i could some how wire the cold start switch into the four injectors on the driver side of the car to make the switch activate those injectors during cranking the car over, instead of the actually CSI. the reason for me asking this is, the car is an 88 iroc with the Holley Stealth Ram intake on it, the prom has already been tuned by previous owner to eliminate the egr, and the car runs flawlessly after it is started up, but it takes me cranking the engine over for aproximately 5 seconds before it even trys to fire, and after a prolonged time it kills my starter and battery, i dont know how to tune or have the equipment to tune, i would like to eventually, but i cannot right now. so would my rigged up wire idea above work, or am i going about this the wrong way, and what would be a better way?

 

That's not going to work... the CSI is a different design made to handle that consistent current instead of a pulse. Your battery dies eventually from 5sec starts? Whats up with your charging system...

 

the charging system is fine, im not saying that its completely killing my battery, im just using common sense that if normally it only takes half a second of cranking over to start the car and it takes 5 seconds to to start my car that means my battery and starter are taking 10 times the beating that is nessisary, and over time its going to wear my starter out 10 times as fast as it should. (not to mention its embarrassing to start the car when people are around).

so how would i go about getting this thing to start in a normal fashion without tuning the prom?

 

I think you have a bad fuel pump relay. It isn't starting until it reads oil pressure and then turns on the fuel pumps when that relay dumps. Thus the prolonged starts. See if when you turn the key on if you hear the fuel pump coming on.

 

I agree. When I first deleted my CSI, I did no programming and it still started fine.

 

I unplugged mine and it seems to start fine.

 

i have checked to see if the fuel pump comes on when i turn the key on, and it does for about 3 seconds, i have checked the fuel injector resistence, they all read 15.2-15.3

the guy who did the did the prom for the car said that its hard to start because the egr is not there, but i dont know if thats true or not.

what else is there to check?

 

EGR shouldn't affect starting. It isn't used during cranking, nor when idling. It's default position is closed, which is how it should be when cranking the engine over, so I can't imagine why it's defeat or removal would affect your start-up (unless it was removed in a bad way and somehow allowing a vacuum leak into the intake).

 

it has the Holley Stealth Ram intake so there is no provision for egr. i was under the impression that the CSI was the problem for my hard start issue, but after hearing from the two guys above and after some searching that the removal of it shouldn't affect my starting. i have the autoXray scan tool, and its not giving any codes, and all values seem to be fine. i tried spraying fuel in the TB to see if im lacking fuel during startup, but its kind of hard because i have to tighten the duct back on the TB so the air goes through the MAF, and i dont think that its helping.

 

Well, if the pumps are coming on, then it probably isn't your relay. I just rebuilt my motor and it hard starts sometimes too now. However, i dumped all the emissions stuff, changed the heads over to 305 heads on my 350 block and swapped the chip with a tuned/reprogrammed chip. I also have a semi-wild cam due to the way i ground it. I think my hard start is in the chip personally...you may have the issue there. Either the stock chip you have isn't happy with the set-up you have changed it to, or if you had one burned, it may not be right for your application possibly. Im not sure where to point you from here...hopefully someone will have another idea or can give you more info.