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Removing MAF Screens?

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Old 09-10-2000, 10:00 PM
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Removing MAF Screens?

I am planning on removing my MAF screens. But feel relucent to do so. Should I expect more problems from removing the MAF screens? Or it doesn't affect the engine at all, other than improve its performance? Just want to remove all doubt on hurting my beloved car!

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1989 IROC-Z Convertible
305 TPI automatic
White with black top
Mods:
None to date
Repairs since it was puchased on June 23, 2000
Full Tune-up, New ECM, New PROM, Throttle gasket replaced, New MAF
And it still needs repairs!
My webpage: http://mindspring.com/~humvee
Old 09-10-2000, 10:16 PM
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If you do it right, it wont have any adverse effects from my experience. Thing about it is, you better be really careful and dont mess up the wire in the middle, because you break that and the MAF is scrap material. Try and stick to pulling things away from the MAF rather than jabbing at it with a screwdriver. Sometimes you can get the plastic ring off the ends that holds the screens in place with a knife around the outside of the ring, then its a simple matter of taking them out.
You'll have to weigh the benefit(minimal) vs the risk of accidentally breaking the wire(costly).
Old 09-10-2000, 10:17 PM
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Well, some people have luck with removing the screens, others have said they have low end slight stumbling problems. I personally wouldnt bother with removing the screens, because the gains are minimal if any. The screens protect the sensor wire from debris, and also smooth the air flow within the sensor, trying to make uniform velocity across the wire, smoothing the airflow. There are plenty of other ways to make power in my opinion than screw with the sensor.... I removed the screen on my car last year and noticed no performance gains but also no problems either


[This message has been edited by Kevin G (edited September 10, 2000).]
Old 09-10-2000, 10:47 PM
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the performance increase if any is minimal...think about it...do u really wanna take a chance on a $300 part?

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89 GTA 350 TPI(L-98)Fiberglass "Daytona Turbo" hood the all mighty K&N filter air foil Stage 2 Fastchip(great chip!) B&M Stage 2 shift kit Flowtech(hey they work fine) shorty headers SLP 3'' stainless steel cat-back exaust Crane Cams HI-6S igntion with PS-91 coil MacEwen white gauge overlay's SLP rear sway bar Koni's all around and one kick *** stereo! Ported plenum and SLP runners are waiting to be installed.
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Old 09-10-2000, 10:53 PM
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IMHO I think your much better off spending the time and money(not a lot if your handy) on a ram air system........unless you already have one. That will definetly get more CFM's to your 305. If I remember correctly a stock MAF sensor can flow up to 725 CFM....way more than your 305 needs unless its really tricked out!

There may already be a tech article for a ram air system at this site. I know there used to be.

Mike

Old 09-11-2000, 03:12 AM
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You really don't need to do it unles your engine is very modded. It flows enough stock. If I just had that information Vader wrote on it........................

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87 IROC-Z L98
84 Trans Am H.O.
Old 09-11-2000, 10:39 PM
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Car: 2005 Subaru STI
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Adding more fuel to the fire...

Removing the MAF screens throws off the initial MAF tables in the PROM. Think about it this way. With the MAF screens removed you actually are pulling in slight more air than what the PROM is calibrated for. Thus, you run -slightly- lean. This is where the possible stumbling on acceleration comes from. Its easy to fix if you know how to burn your own PROMs.

For slightly modded engines it is not worth it to remove the screens. But, for really modded engines there isn't much of a choice. You'll have to remove the screens to get more airflow. By "really modded" I am referring to heads, cam, full intake upgrade and full exhaust upgrade.

Tim

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TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.587 @ 107.97mph (1.710 60ftr) on the long runner setup.
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels. Stock Wheels. No Weight Reduction.
Gunning for NA 11's with the MiniRam II and Hooker LT Headers.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Old 09-12-2000, 01:17 AM
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another thing just hit me about this situation tim, is that on modded engines "maxing out" the maf is common it seems. I think removing the screens and fins could help in this department since there will always be a greater amount of air passing through that is not measured by the actual sensor.. sorta slowing down the airspeed over the wires and lowering the GM/s measured. Not sure if it would actually work this way butjust a little thought i had
Old 09-12-2000, 11:01 AM
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Car: 2005 Subaru STI
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Pablo,

That is 100% correct

Tim

------------------
TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.587 @ 107.97mph (1.710 60ftr) on the long runner setup.
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels. Stock Wheels. No Weight Reduction.
Gunning for NA 11's with the MiniRam II and Hooker LT Headers.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Old 09-12-2000, 06:20 PM
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Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: Pro-Built 700R4 2400 ACT Stall
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner 9-Bolt
heh, i felt a 0% increase in horsepower... plus about a week later my MAF went out on me... :|

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89 IROC-Z 350 TPI

-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-Rebuilt 700R4 Tranny
With the goodies to go

-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
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