Can I switch from SD to MAF? What will this swap require? A new ECM and a MAF sensor,and harness?

 

Why? If it is to make future mods, you'd be far better off to learn to burn your own eproms.

 

Don't do it, SD is great. Supposedly the rumor that SD's are hard to mod was started by the MAF guys! haha

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'91 GTA:
www.fbody.com/members/91WS6GTA

 

Haha

I think the rumor was started by the same idiots who said you cant modify a computer controlled car back in the early 80's.

Dont swap to the thirdgen MAF setup from SD. There is absolutely no reason to do that.

 

Madmax, you remember that one too (about not being able to modify a computer controlled car)?.

The other one that gives me a chuckle is "The biggest source of HP you can make on a computer controlled car is to change the chip".

Well, they were half right, but they forgot to mention "burn your own".

 

Do I remember it? LOL!

In 1986 my friend ripped apart the 305 in his 85 TPI TA, dropped in a Lunati stroker crank, Arias pistons, Lunati cam (rather radical I might add), shaved the @#$% out of the heads, and did some lying to the computer and ran it. I remember the two of us trying to figure out how to lie to it. Everyone who knew what he was up to said it wouldnt run at all. We knew better.

About 2 years later I started messing with the LG4 in my parents 86 GP, didnt really care about what everyone else said. I think it was around 94 I bought a PJ gear drive, against everyones advice, and proceeded to run it WITH a knock sensor.

Yea, I remember the 80's. All the new computer stuff, people paranoid to mess with them. LOL! I was messin with them so much it never bothered me. Now its so common, but then it was very unusual.

I see he still hasnt replied. Kevin got well into the 13's with a 350TPI on what I would call a *slightly* modified SD chip, but you could probably duplicate that on a stock one. Dont worry too much about any minor mods, its the major ones that will get you.
Minor=mild cam, heads, exhaust
Major=NOS, supercharger, radical cam

[This message has been edited by madmax (edited January 30, 2001).]

 

Actually Madmax, after I started to dive into eprom burning, I am amazed on how overly rich my stock eprom (my ADS did nothing to the VE Tables) with a relocated MAT and with my fuel pressure as low as I could go (42 psi). I could have had some major mods to my car and still might have never had to crank up the fuel pressure. There is a lot of room for modificatons with the stock eprom as it is.

Of course, this doesn't get into driveablity or smooth operation issues. But as for the myth that you MUST get a custom eprom when modifying an SD car, it's just that, a myth. I believe that a lot of those eprom writers with their "formula" eproms take advantage of that fact.

But I would recommend that a person consider looking into burning their own eprom. Not because you HAVE TO, but because it does make for a much smoother running motor and maximizes gas mileage. You also will get the best performance possible out of your motor too; though I am going to have to wait until the spring to give my car that "acid test".

[This message has been edited by Glenn91L98GTA (edited January 31, 2001).]

 

Thanks guys! I was just reading through an old magazine I had lying around. It's called "Fuel Injection Basics" It's mostly about TPI, but it's got some ford stuff in there too. Anyways, it said that SD requires a chip change for almost everything. I knew it wasn't true, but back in the back of my mind, I was starting to doubt that I was getting the most out of my mods. I don't have anything "big" except for my exhaust, which really loosened the engine. Letting it breathe is the best, most power richening mod I've done so far. My car has responded really well to the mods I have done. I'm just wondering if I'm getting the most from my AFPR with SD. It's a 305 so I think I set it at 49 last summer. I've been tinkering with the idea of turning it back to 47 if it ever quits raining, snowing or a combination of the two.

 

90Iroc, don't get me wrong. I do agree with the theory of increased fuel pressure giving better atomization and promotes better combustion. The problem is, that a basically stock engine is already on the rich side and really doesn't need any additional fuel.

I am now advocating that burning your own eprom in conjuction with increased fuel pressure is the way to go. Then you get all the benefits of the increased fuel pressure without being overly rich.

Read the article on this link for the introduction on eprom burning. It really is a lot easier than most people think and really optimizes the SD system. The main benefits (besides making optimum HP), is improved driveability and increased smoothness.
https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/promintro.shtml

 

Madmax, I replied to this thread on camaroz28.com asking the same thing Glenn did in his first post. Why would you want to switch?

I am running the stock 305 5-speed chip in my speed density 350. The idle and closed loop specs are stock, while the WOT values have been changed to add a couple degrees timing, add a little fuel, turn the primary fan on sooner, etc. Nothing major.

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West Coast GM Shootout 2001!
1991 Camaro Z28
5.7L 5-Speed (originally 305)
13.25 @ 107.18 MPH
Southern California
Member: SoCal 3rd Gen F-Bodies
Webmaster: SoCal F-Bodies
-=ICON Motorsports=-

 

For thirdgen F-Bodies, Never Ever swap from SD to MAF. Period.

Tim

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• Program your own PROMs!. Read my article to get started!
• Research and Experiment before asking questions.
• This is not a chip store. Go to the classifieds if you want someone to sell you a chip or give you a BIN.

TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

 

Hey Glenn, do you think then, that I should lean the AFPR out? Before I installed the Regulator, my pressure at idle was at 39.5psi. That's the bare minimum. I did the vaccum line plug for the WOT value and set it at 49 (I think). I don't know what my idle pressure is now, because the fuel rail gauge I bought broke. Also right now, I'm pretty sure I've got a bad injector. Will that change my pressure reading?

 

By all means, try it. If the engine runs better then it confirms an overly rich situation. Then you know the proper solution...a fuel pressure change on a basically stock engine needs a corresponding changing in the eprom to compensate.

 

Glenn91, ,I recently read the article on E prom burning and I was wondering where you got the equipment to do this. If you got it from the states what did it set you back in Canuk bux?Well my real question is how much did it set you back either way. I'm interrested in learning how to do this but can't spend a great deal of cash right now.

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1990 Iroc convertible,305 tpi,Black with black leather interior,lowered