What Cam do You recommend???
What Cam do You recommend???
Hey people,
I have a question for the experts out there. I have an 86 TA and it has the infamous sh*&&y "peanut" cam on it. So I want to replace it, but the problem is I don't know much about cams. I would really appreciate it if somebody could E-mail me a nice explanation of what a cam does, and where it it.
Other then that, what can would you recommend for a 305 TPI with 700R4, All Stock. Price is an issued. Also where can I buy this cam.
Thank you in advance for your time people, I appreciate it.
-Max
-'86 Trans Am WS6
-305 TPI with 700R4
-All stock until I fix all the problems
I have a question for the experts out there. I have an 86 TA and it has the infamous sh*&&y "peanut" cam on it. So I want to replace it, but the problem is I don't know much about cams. I would really appreciate it if somebody could E-mail me a nice explanation of what a cam does, and where it it.
Other then that, what can would you recommend for a 305 TPI with 700R4, All Stock. Price is an issued. Also where can I buy this cam.
Thank you in advance for your time people, I appreciate it.
-Max
-'86 Trans Am WS6
-305 TPI with 700R4
-All stock until I fix all the problems
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 938
Likes: 1
From: Hinesville, GA USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
OK.
First, there relly isn't a real good reason to start looking for power first thing by switching cams. There's TONS of low-buck/no-buck mods that can be done to TPI motors that are less painful and can actually make a decent motor. For a motor that doesn't run to it's full potential to get a cam swap doens't make sense. We also need to know what kind of driving you do and what your future expectaions are. The only way to make it all work well is to have a 'balanced' setup.
Get it running well stock. No trouble codes, decent mileage, then start with things like an airfoil and fuel pressure regulator. Underdrive pulleys, K&N air filters, gatorback belt, port the upper plenum, Bosch Platinum plugs, high-performance wires, cap, rotor, coil, ignition module, maybe some headers and a cat-back, perhaps a torque converter matched to the cam. After that, the cam is becoming more of a restiction, and go to a cam like a Crane Compucam. A 305 TPI doesn't need a lumpy cam, a Crane 2032 or 2040 will work fine. These are relatively inexpensive flat-tappet TPI cams that don't require a prom change (althoug that will help). You can get them though Summit ( www.summitracing.com for catalog)for $134.99. Change the valvesprings and pushrods while you're at it. Repeat, change the valvesprings and pushrods while you're at it. Change valve seals while changing valvesprings. Porting the lower intake base or bette yet, changing it while it's off is n EXCELLENT idea. Just don't go crazy.
Now the explanation. I am hardly the most qualified to tell you, but will try anyway. A cam's job is nothing more but to open and close the valves in the combustion chamber at a predetermined point per crankshaft revolution. The cam does nothin more than lift the valves a certain amount and at a certain point. It's far too difficult to get into an explanation of how to choose the best cam, I'm still debating that myself. The best explanation is in the tech section of this site. Hard for me to put it into words in a short paragraph at 12:00 am. Choose a Crane Compucam cam, or another similar to it, and if you need help, post a thread or e-mail me. Duration and lift are hard to summarize. Summit tech support should be able to help you pick out a cam. As I said before, make sure you tell us your plans with the car.
I don't think I forgot anything, anybody?
[This message has been edited by dhirocz (edited May 14, 2001).]
First, there relly isn't a real good reason to start looking for power first thing by switching cams. There's TONS of low-buck/no-buck mods that can be done to TPI motors that are less painful and can actually make a decent motor. For a motor that doesn't run to it's full potential to get a cam swap doens't make sense. We also need to know what kind of driving you do and what your future expectaions are. The only way to make it all work well is to have a 'balanced' setup.
Get it running well stock. No trouble codes, decent mileage, then start with things like an airfoil and fuel pressure regulator. Underdrive pulleys, K&N air filters, gatorback belt, port the upper plenum, Bosch Platinum plugs, high-performance wires, cap, rotor, coil, ignition module, maybe some headers and a cat-back, perhaps a torque converter matched to the cam. After that, the cam is becoming more of a restiction, and go to a cam like a Crane Compucam. A 305 TPI doesn't need a lumpy cam, a Crane 2032 or 2040 will work fine. These are relatively inexpensive flat-tappet TPI cams that don't require a prom change (althoug that will help). You can get them though Summit ( www.summitracing.com for catalog)for $134.99. Change the valvesprings and pushrods while you're at it. Repeat, change the valvesprings and pushrods while you're at it. Change valve seals while changing valvesprings. Porting the lower intake base or bette yet, changing it while it's off is n EXCELLENT idea. Just don't go crazy.
Now the explanation. I am hardly the most qualified to tell you, but will try anyway. A cam's job is nothing more but to open and close the valves in the combustion chamber at a predetermined point per crankshaft revolution. The cam does nothin more than lift the valves a certain amount and at a certain point. It's far too difficult to get into an explanation of how to choose the best cam, I'm still debating that myself. The best explanation is in the tech section of this site. Hard for me to put it into words in a short paragraph at 12:00 am. Choose a Crane Compucam cam, or another similar to it, and if you need help, post a thread or e-mail me. Duration and lift are hard to summarize. Summit tech support should be able to help you pick out a cam. As I said before, make sure you tell us your plans with the car.
I don't think I forgot anything, anybody?
[This message has been edited by dhirocz (edited May 14, 2001).]
Thanks for the help dhirocz. As we speak I am working on some of those low buck mods you decribed. My concern was that the peanut cam was just soooo restrictive that it really hampers my engines abilty to produce power. If that is not the case I will wait to do all the cheaper mods first.
BTW What are underdrive pulleys and a gatorbelt.
I really appreciate a lengthy cam-for-idiots explanation.
-Max
BTW What are underdrive pulleys and a gatorbelt.
I really appreciate a lengthy cam-for-idiots explanation.
-Max
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 938
Likes: 1
From: Hinesville, GA USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
Underdrive pulleys are pulleys that are smaller than stock so they rotate engine accessories at a slower speed. They come in sets of 2 or 3, 3 are better but more expensive. They make a small crank pulley (which slows down all accessories) then depending on application, make a bigger alternator pulley so it runs at factory speed for charging purposes while the other accessories that don't need to run as fast don't, freeing up some horsepower due to parasitic loss. Easy to install. A gatorback belt is made by Goodyear and they are made with a special rib pattern that further decreases drag. Expect 8-10 HP with u-pulleys, 4 with a belt. The belts are harder to find, not many parts stores carry them. They also are more expensive.
As I said before, more gains are to be had with a cam swap when the cam is more of a resrictive piece. If other things are more restrictive than the cam, you wont see as much benefit. But when the cam is the weak link...
On a stock 305 the peanut cam still sucks, but you need to mod the whole package for noticeable benefit. Worry about the cam last. While you're at it, you may consider saving for some aluminum 'Vette heads to replace the 305 heads with, unless you know someone who can do porting...they're pretty inexpensive and bolt right on.
Before choosing a cam, make sure you read the section on cams in the tech section of this site.
As I said before, more gains are to be had with a cam swap when the cam is more of a resrictive piece. If other things are more restrictive than the cam, you wont see as much benefit. But when the cam is the weak link...
On a stock 305 the peanut cam still sucks, but you need to mod the whole package for noticeable benefit. Worry about the cam last. While you're at it, you may consider saving for some aluminum 'Vette heads to replace the 305 heads with, unless you know someone who can do porting...they're pretty inexpensive and bolt right on.
Before choosing a cam, make sure you read the section on cams in the tech section of this site.
don't look at this tech crap thats for camero freaks you have a trans am the hp is rated at 210 and the tourque went down to 270 i have the book to prove it the name of it is pure excitement from pontiac.
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 938
Likes: 1
From: Hinesville, GA USA
Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by NUN:
don't look at this tech crap thats for camero freaks you have a trans am the hp is rated at 210 and the tourque went down to 270 i have the book to prove it the name of it is pure excitement from pontiac.</font>
don't look at this tech crap thats for camero freaks you have a trans am the hp is rated at 210 and the tourque went down to 270 i have the book to prove it the name of it is pure excitement from pontiac.</font>

OK, both are peanut cammed, both are TPI. The guy want's to know how to make his car faster, and I'm trying to help him do it in an orderly, balanced way. Who the hell cares if the Trans Am had 5 more hp? We don't need to be starting arguments. I've seen this crap on other posts. They're both GM vehicles. Both are the same except for a few small differences, who gives a $hit? Get over it of get off this site!
If you don't believe the tech on this site, which was written by some Camaro 'freaks' (which is almost identical to a Trans Am) who know their $hit, then find another site that agrees with you. I'm sure it'll be real easy.
This site is apparently not good enough for you, since you're convinced you're smarter than everyone else here. Maksik7, if you need help on your swap, feel free to e-mail me. I'm sorry you have to put up with this BS, just trying to help you, man.
BTW: I also have a GTA Trans Am so I have at least an idea of what I'm talking about...
[This message has been edited by dhirocz (edited May 15, 2001).]
NUN... actually the numbers for my car are 190 HP and 285 TQ.
dhirocz... thanks for the help I will mail you if I need any help with the swap. Its just that I figure that the cam was a big restriction even on a stock engine. That is becasue in 87 the T/A was virtually unchanged except the peanut was changed for a decent cam. That bumped the #'s up to 215 HP and 295 TQ so I figured it was the peanut's fault my car is slow.
I guess I'll just have to do everything else first, or just swap in a 350 with a good cam and be happy
-Max
dhirocz... thanks for the help I will mail you if I need any help with the swap. Its just that I figure that the cam was a big restriction even on a stock engine. That is becasue in 87 the T/A was virtually unchanged except the peanut was changed for a decent cam. That bumped the #'s up to 215 HP and 295 TQ so I figured it was the peanut's fault my car is slow.
I guess I'll just have to do everything else first, or just swap in a 350 with a good cam and be happy

-Max
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
IROCZDAVE (88-L98)
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
1
Nov 19, 2015 07:03 AM




