Arggg.. I have no idea what's wrong with it. My brother (Rob90TA) drove it around some and the next day I tried to start it. It didn't do anything. Usually I have to turn the key once or twice since the starter solenoid is kind of melted by the headers, so it takes a couple tries to find a good electrical contact on the disk inside the starter solenoid. So I figured it was time for a new starter. I just replaced it and also replaced the positive battery cable for good measure. Still, nothing happens. I turn the key and no clicks sounds etc.. I'm getting no codes from the computer except 12 12 12 which is normal, so I guess it's not the VATS system or else there would be codes. The temperature guage goes up when I turn the key, which I guess means that the computer at least thinks I'm trying to start it, so the ignition switch must be working. I thought it could be the neutral saftey switch so I cut it out of the circuit and still nothing. I thought it may have been the battery so I charged it overnight and the headlights work fine but the starter solenoid doesn't even *click* so I doubt it's the battery, besides I put a light bulb in series with purple starter wire and it didn't light up.. so no power is reaching the starter. What in the heck is wrong with it? Has anybody had this problem?

Thanks
(Running out of things to try)Mike89GTA

------------------

4 bolt 350, 10.4:1 Compression, Edelbrock Aluminum Heads 6085, LT4 Hot Cam /w 1.6 full rollers (Crane), Scat Crank, SLP 1 3/4" Headers, SLP Cold Air Intake, Crane AFPR, 48mm TB, ported plenum, stock runners, Accel Super Ram intake manifold, 95Z #24 injectors, stock fuel rails, T5 Tranny, 3.45s, 9 bolt rear, 4 wheel discs, BFG Comp T/As rear, SZ50s in front, Alston SFCs, ES Trans Mount, ES front A-arm bushings, ES front sway bar end links

 

Yes, I've had this alot, and its a 2.8!! I still don't know what does it because it hasn't been doing it recently. It has to have something to do with the starter and solenoid being where they are, because others have had this and replaced their starters and still have it.

------------------
89 RS

Looking For:
87 IROC-Z28 350 TPI

 

Vats problem?

------------------
1987 IROC-Z L98,SuperRam,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Roller, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 3, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, KYB Shocks/Struts, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Polyurethan Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm,

To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here

 

VATs would leave an error code.

 

there is a fusable link inline between the battery and the starter if it melted or went to ground it popped that's why you are getting no juice to the starter try this take the battery charger and go directly to the positive post on the starter if it cranks it is the fuse if not its probably the starter solenoid.headers did me in that way to they get to hot,fix it by lengthening the wires and run them under the motor mount away from the headers

 

Thanks, going to go try that.

 

There is also a "starter enable relay" in there where the juice has to go thru first before it gets to your nuetral safety switch and on to the starter. If you don't have any juice at the nuetral switch, check that relay. It is located behind the driver side kick-panel, down low, probably behind what looks like a "rubber cover"...

KAM

 

I just jumpered the wires in the starter enable relay (large green to large yellow small green to small yellow) and it actually cranked over for the first time! It didn't start though. Just cranked. What does that mean? Is the relay doing it's job then? My dad says maybe the computer doesn't want it to start.

EDIT: I hooked the relay back up and closed it with my finger and it worked. So I know the relay is bad but the car still won't start. I check for fuel and spark (and the air filter) and I have all of them. (I have the headers disconnected and there were clouds of gas vapor coming out so I'm 100% sure I have fuel)

[This message has been edited by Mike89GTA (edited May 27, 2001).]

 

Check the fuseible links and replace that relay.

 

Finally found the problem. I took the ignition lock out and both yellow VATS wires were cut off. I guess when I put my car back together a while ago I didn't put the lock in right and after turning the key a few hundred times they snapped off. Now I just have to figure out how to connect them so it doesn't happen again.