I was getting codes 34 and 36 so i went and replaced both the Burnoff and power relays for the MAF. For a few days afterwards everything was ok. Now almost every time i run the car it idels really rough for the first few seconds of startup and then it throws a code 36. when i replaced the relays, the parts store only had 2 and they were different brands but i figured it would be ok so i bought them. Is it possible that the brand difference of the relays is causing a problems??? I dont think so but i figured id ask. the car seems to run alright but i hate having SES lights. Im thinking it might be the MAF itself, what do you guys think???

also when i jumped the diaognostic link to get the codes, my driver side fan came on, is that normal??? The reason i ask is that under normal driving i dont think the fans are coming on. Im not 100% sure but the fans are pretty loud and i think id hear them if they came on at a stop light. also at the dragstrip last year i used to just turn on the key and turn the A/C on with the engine off to get the fans to turn on to help cool the car in the staging lanes and it wont do it now. Is there a fan relay that might be messed up and only allowing the fans to come on when the diagnostic link is jumped??? thanks for the help. i hate electrical stuff.

------------------
1988 IROC-Z L98
License Plate: STG KLR 1
Engine Mods:
Edlebrock TES Headers, Hypertech Chip, Flowmaster Muffler, Intake Airfoil, Removed MAF Screens, MSD-6A, MSD Blaster 2 GM Coil, bored .030 over.
Nitrous System:
NOS Plate Kit, 100hp shot.
Suspension Mods:
Lakewood Traction Action Lift Bars, Hal Rear Shocks
Trans Mods:
2,500 stall converter, Redline clutches,Heavy Duty Steels, Trans-Go reprograming kit , Heavy Duty 2-4 band, Corvette Servo, B&M Mega Shifter
ET: 13.833@99.30 N/A

"If you can put it on your car, its fair" Quote By Guido
Foundering Member of the Illinois Overkill Crew (IOC)
www.mfba.org

 

sorry, i cant answer most of the question, but the fan is supposed to come on..

 

Replace your CTS to get your drivers side fan to come back on. My friend helped me on this on and IIRC the drivers side fan is controled by the ECM and will kick on when the car gets hot and the radiator fan switch will kick the passanger side fan on when the temp starts to get close to overheating or 228* or whatever it turns on at and you can replace that to get the fan to kick on at a lower temp. The driver side fan is supposed to turn on when the car is jumped but when the car gets to temp and the driver fan doesnt kick on then more than likely the CTS needs to be replaced. One other thing to look for is the connector of the CTS when you go to buy it. I found out the hard way that from '89 to '90 there are different connectors.

The 2 different sensors wont matter for your car running rough. As for the MAF one way to check it (although some dont like this idea) is to start your car and tap the top of the MAF with a screw driver and if the car stumbles then the MAF is bad. I dont know how accurate this is for I have never tried it and if you hit the MAF too hard then you take the chance of breaking the filament. Enough rambling good luck.

 

Code 36 is the burnoff relay or MAF itself. You might try switching the Power and Burnoff relays with each other.... disconnect battery for 5 minutes to clear codes.... reconnect and recheck for codes.

If your codes changes back to 33 then the relay you put on your burnoff is in fact toast or incompatible.

If you still throw a 36 with the relays swapped, providing all connections are clean and making good contact, you may have to replace your MAF.

 

Code 36 can also be caused by a weak battery. Hows the battery doing?

 

The battery looks to be ok. ill have to try switching the relays around to see if i get the other code or not. thanks for the help guys.

 

check thewires inthe connector for the maf should be four as the car ages the little rubber booty around the wires in the weatherpak fray or loosen try pushing the wres into the connector further make sure all theconnectors are good no cutts or cracks if so you couldbe pickng up resistance in the wires throwing a false 36.an easy way to check if themaf is gone is unplug it when it's running if it studders and goes into limp home mode the maf should be good or tap on it at idle both are valid tests to perform my buddy has the same problem everything was changed maf,relays,part of the harness still no luck,my opinion iis some ecm's deal better with mods than others.before i got a code 34 still have to diagnose it but i gutted that thing have been using it for years that way with no problems good luck

------------------
87 trans am 350,L98 aluminum heads,LT4 hot cam,slp runners,slp 1 5/8 headers,3in.y-pipe,edelbrock base,hi flo cat,air foil,afpr,as&m ported plenum,t-5 tranny w/centerforce clutch and a 3.27 9bolt(11.9in. brakes),ed wright's fastchip,relocated iat sensor,tb bypass,accel supercoil,hollowed maf,slp 3in. catback,a/c delete.
oh!no!i think my maf is going!!!!!!!!!!!!

14.10@97mph w/2.01 60'

slp catback is finally on!!!
fastchip prom is in.OH!MAN!
FLOWMASTER S.U.C.K.S

 

I have to try that tapping on the MAF test. the car is definitly running like crap seeing that i pulled back to back 14.9's at the track 2 days ago when i normally run 13.8. Arg i hate doing repairs, upgrades are more my style