today i was about to start the project and start installing the vette heads on a rebuild 88' 305 TPI, the stock 305 heads are obviously cast iron, and it never pawned on my head that i prob. couldnt use stock head bolts on an alluminum head. My question is this, im installing 88' corvette alluminum heads, can i use the stock cast iron head bolts on the alluminum head, i heard i might need to use washers(grounded washers) because when i tighten the bolts the torque could be more aqurate. Is that right, what else do i have to do to get a nice tight fit, im not really crazy in spending $100.00 on head bolts, im out of the job , what can i do???????????????

please someone help me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You should be able to use your present head bolts but you will need washers. GM sells them under part#14011040. You will need 34 of them.They are about .60 cents a piece.

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92Z28
89GTA

I have a spare set of new ARP washers if you're interested drop me an e-mail, i'll part with them for $10.

Another problem that might not have occured to you yet is the center 4 intake bolt holes arn't going to line up with the heads, you will need to grind them for the different angle to fit.

are u serious

if your current heads are from 1988, then you will need to modify the angle of the bolt hole in the manifold. you can do it easily with a drill, just elongate the hole.

Joel,
I don't understand why they won't line up? Are you referring to the problem with pre-87 heads and the 87+ angled bolt holes? He has both 88 heads/intake/block(from what I can understand).

Brendan

if both the heads and the intake are 87+ you shouldn't have to modify anything

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1991 banditt2 #130 of 600
Project 350 TPI Banditt II
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I am 99% sure that all of the aluminum vette heads recieved the old style bolt pattern on the intake.

Just get some ARP headbolts dude...cheapest I've seen are $30 a set, and it's better to be safe than sorry! I'm not sure but I don't think you need to retorque the heads when you use ARP bolts, anyone know this for fact?

He's right, the AL vette heads have the traditional straight center intake bolts.

Sorry for the bad surprise, I usually end up finding out the hard way. I 2nd the new head bolts, the ARP's are great insurance, don't get studs, the heads are impossible to get off with the motor in the car unless you double nut the studs and pull them out.

There's three sizes of bolts, the longest go in the top side, the 2 medium lengths go on the ends and the smalls go along the bottom.

I usually slap some permetex teflon on the threads and put some moly on top and underneath the washers, take them up in three steps in the right sequence, I usually go 35, 55, then 70 lbs. ft. Stock specs are 65 lbs ft, but trickflow says 70 so I'm not too sure, I always crank em to 70 though.

Another good thing about the ARP's are they are necked down so they stretch more and hold their clamping load alot longer through heating and cooling cycles.

I don't know if I should go back and re-tighten them after a couple heat/cool cycles, some people tell me to and some say don't bother....I guess it couldn't hurt.

The vette heads do not have provisions for the EGR, they used a riser tube from the passenger side header to the manifold. The vette head is a centerbolt head so if you have perimeter bolt valve covers now you will have to purchase/find a set of valve covers and bolts. Lastly that I can remember the exhaust ports on the head are .100" higher than the standard head.

Jeff

wait ARP bolts for $30.00 dollars are u serious, is that the whole bolts (34 bolts) if it is ill buy that, do me a favor, im rarely home can u look me up the part # for the ARP bolts for an 88' alluminum L98 head. thank