OK I just got my TPI swap up and running and have been working on tuning it. I have a BBK AFPR and I bought a fuel pressure gauge from thunder racing. Now my problem is when I hook it up to the Rail with the vacuum disconnected it pulses rapidly between 65 and 85 psi. I thought it should read somewhere close to 35- 45 psi depending on the setting of the AFPR. Is it just a bad gauge or is there something a miss with the fuel pump?

Also I can't seem to get the idle down below 1000 rpm. I have adjusted the IAC and the TPS and have my timing set at 8* . Is there something I am missing in terms of getting my idle down. I figure it should idle between 750 and 900 max and idle between 650 and 800 in gear is that right or am i mistaken?
I have not done anything with my chip yet other then disable vats. It is on ANHY which I have never seen on the boards. Will I have to make adjustments for my cam and exhaust mods in order to get my idle down? I was planing on s_aujp but turning on all the emisions stuff till I get it past its last test

 

Bump

 

Did you leave the vacuum disconnected?? What dose the gage read with the engine off and the key on?? If the pump is all right it should 36PSI. Also where do you have the gage mounted and did you remove the schader valve?

Also you made a swap from LO3 TBI to a TPI system and you did not change the chip. Can't run a TPI with the TBI chip, that is your problem.

 

you say you installed the afpr.....sounds like you need to adjust it. the adjusting screw is prolly threaded to far in. guage is probably good. also, were do you have the vacuum hose connected? should be connected at the rear of the upper plenum to it's own port.....not one shared with anything else.

also, if you still have a tbi chip as DJ suspects, there is where your tuning issues are coming from. if it is a tpi program, where did you get the program/ecm/memcal?

the idle should be set when the engine is a operating temperature. doind it while it is cold can produce unreliable results. plus, factory timing is 6* btdc on most of the tpi's i've heard about.

 

Yes the vacuum was disconnected. It reads 70 psi with key on not running. I connected it to the schrader valve. UMM car wouldn't run at all with a tbi chip or ecm for that matter. harness wouldn't plug in either. Running a 730 ecm with ANHT w/ vats of. ANHT is what this setup came with when I bought it so all i did was go in and turn off the vats so far.
The adjuster for the AFPR is adjusted way out, in fact i have turned it in a few threads( only way I have any adjustablity bc it almost all out) to see if that would make any change in my reading.
When the AFPR is hooked to vacuum it is the prot on the plenum right next were the map sensor plugs in to the manifold.

 

interesting. What kind of gauge is it? is it a permanent mounted gauge on the scrader valve ? if so it needs to be liquid filled to be accurate

are there any vacuum leaks? that may cause the motor to idle high but with fuel pressure that high, the injectors arent gonna like it. they arent designed to run that high. that could be the problem with the idle and bad running.

Try to adjust the regulator more and see if you cant lower it down to 40psi or so.

 

Its a hypertec unit.
"http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog/?action=vshop&vid=6&pcid=164"
Its not a permanent mount only for tning purposes.
I have checked and rechecked for vacuum leaks,
I have another tpi setup here but its a maf setup and i have speed density. I was thinking of swapping the TB if they are the same. Would i be able to do that?

 

Search for settng minimum air, you can't "adjust" the IAC, only reset it. Min air is set by the TB blades, if you TB hasn't been messes with, look down to the right lower side and there should be a little potmetal cap you have to bust out, then set the blades according ly...

But...check to make sure the throttle cable or TC/cruise cable isn't binding and holding the blades open.

Isssue I think, isn't that you have too much fuel...but have too much air...

Did you do a once over for vacuum leaks?

 

adjust, or reset. who cares how i describe the procedure I've tried it and it still didn't solve my problem.
I know its not the cables bc I've disconnected them to be sure.
I've checked and rechecked for vacuum leakes including blocking off as many as I can for the interior and emmisions components, and I've checked the manifold and plenum to make shure nothing is going on there.

 

Until you have the Correct 350 chip installed in the ECM. I would not even guess what to do.

 

well I just got my lower dual fan bracket and my new kickdown cable in so I'm gonna be workin on that tonight maybe if i get time I'll burn the S_AUJP chip for it and see if it helps any. May take it for its first test drive and see how it does. Anyone got any other ideas on this idle problem or why my fuel pressure reads so high?

 

got the idle problem fixed it was a bad IAC i swapped it with one from a spare tb I have for another tpi setup and redid the reset procedure and the idle came down were it should.

But...
now i have a new problem. I took the car around the block for a test drive and pulled into my garage and thats it. I shut it down and now it won't restart. I checked spark but had little time to check anything else but i think it may be fuel related as I sprayed some starter fluid in the intake and she sputtered to life but she kept running until i shut her down again and now nothing she'll sputter if I hit it with some starter fluid but will not run. Any ideas on why she would suddenly stop suppling fuel.
I can hear the pump turn on when I hit the key. My fans aren't working yet so the temp got up over 220 could there be something in the ecm shuttin fuel down bc of the high temp?
I only have tommorow night to work on it till this weekend so I'd appreciate anything I can get to try right now and see if I can get her runnin again. I am in dire need of a car as my daily driver was totaled and its replacement is not here yet. And I still have to re-register this thing and get it to pass emisions.

 

update

Went out this morning and and the car started right up. let it warm up and then shut it down, it would not restart. it cranks but its like its not getting gas. would anything cause the ecm to stop pulsing the injectors? I do not have the temp probe for the fans hooked up does the ecm use this for more then just fan control? could that be what my problem is?

 

First off, "adjust and Reset" are two totally different things, you can "adjust" the start postion of the IAC..look in a manual, you'll kno what I mean...after you "adjust" the IAC, you then reset it.

I know a lot of guys post up and they say "I checked everything, I check ed all the wiring" but in reality, all they do is pop the hood and look for something hanging out.

It's really imperative that you be specific when describing a problem, and describing what you have doe to rectify it...so...to answer your question about "who cares"...

I do.

Off my soap box...

I think the TBI engine have a "clear flood state"...where when you press all the way in on the pedal, the TPSs see's too much voltage, so shuts down (or really limits) the injector PW so just a little fuel squirts...not sure if the TPIs do...but...you might want to check TPS voltage and adjust accordingly.

Another thing I'd be concerned with though as from your description, the engine starts when cool...so you might want to think about the ICM...if it's bad, they tend to not fire when warm.

 

I set the TPS according to the article in the tech section. I had to change it bc my original was not adjustable and read almost 1 volt at closed throttle.
I set the new on for .59 v and it reads 4.6 at WOT
I read on another thread that SD setups should read a little higher at closed throttle the MAF cars.
I have been through the wiring harness a lot bc it was missing a bunch of connector(basically everything going under the engine including to the tranny also the bulkhead connector on the driverside was mangled alot so believe me when i say i have been over the wiring ALOT.

However I have figured out the starting issue. Once i got a hold of the connector for the fan temp sensor in the pass side head and got it hooked up the problem went away. I was under the wrong impression that that sensor only told the ECM when to kick the fans on.

I am however still concerned about my fuel pressure 70 psi on my Hypertech gauge when key on not running and it bounces between 60 and 80 when running. Could a stock fuel pump go that high or is it more than likely a bad gauge

ICM is that a miss type for ECM bc i just put a new one well refurb from autozone in it bc that was bad too. 400 for the whole " complete and un-molested" setup i guess you get what you pay for.

 

I just realized you have SD setup...TPS shouldn't be adjustable, unless you're using the '89-older TPS on your TB.

The SD engine doesn't need the TPS set like the MAF engines, it looks at idle setting on start up, then scales from there...there is a fairly broad range that it will use...but, where you're at is fine and should not cause any issues.

ICM- I'm referring to the ignition control module on in the base of the dizzy, usually if they fail, it's when they are hot

You should have two temp sensors, the one you hooked is for the ECM...it's called the CTS and will cause startup issues/etc...the ECM needs to know what the current temp is in order to adjust fuel/timing...and when to turn on the primary fan...the other temp sensor on the the other side (pass) is for the 2ndry fan.

The fuel pressure does seem pretty high, I didn't think the factory pump could put out that much, but if it's really that high (and the gauge is good), then I'd suspect maybe a clogged/pinched retun line, or maybe something amiss with the fuel pressure regulator...but IIRC, highest I could turn my fuel pressure up (with adjustable regulator) was about 50-55PSI.