Best TPI mods
Best TPI mods
What are the best components(runners, TBs, etc...) to use ,best value $ to HP gained. What have been your experiances with different such components. BTW Im looking into getting the vortec heads and TPI base.
Thanx.
Thanx.
Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 401
Likes: 0
From: MNT.Washington, KY
Car: 87 Iroc
Engine: L98
Transmission: T-5 3.42's
24 pound infectors run about $250 a piece, but holy crap do they make a difference. You may want to try an inexpensive Comp Xtreme energy cam and an Edelbrock RPM intake...port your heads, as well...more air=more power....
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,287
Likes: 0
From: Warsaw, Indiana
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 427 LSX
Transmission: Turbo 400
unless your injectors are bad, don't listen to the previous dude.
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1991 Firebird
350 L98 (was a 305 TBI),T-5,Edelbrock TES and cat back,Accel manifold
NOS,subframes,jegster torque arm,MSD Digital 6
AFPR,Lakewood lcas
Hurst linelock,SLP cam (206 212 .480 .486),relocated battery,cold air,Hypertech chip,centerforce df,clutch
poly bushings and mounts
AFR 190s
Harland sharp 1.5 rockers
autopower rollbar
12.33 @ 114.83 juiced uncorrected
13.510 @ 102 non juiced uncorrected
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1991 Firebird
350 L98 (was a 305 TBI),T-5,Edelbrock TES and cat back,Accel manifold
NOS,subframes,jegster torque arm,MSD Digital 6
AFPR,Lakewood lcas
Hurst linelock,SLP cam (206 212 .480 .486),relocated battery,cold air,Hypertech chip,centerforce df,clutch
poly bushings and mounts
AFR 190s
Harland sharp 1.5 rockers
autopower rollbar
12.33 @ 114.83 juiced uncorrected
13.510 @ 102 non juiced uncorrected
Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 483
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, Tx
Car: 88 Trans Am
Engine: lt1 intaked 355 makin 277 on 25 psi of fuel pressure and stock timing :)
Transmission: A4 stock... that moved a mobile dyno a foot shifting into 2nd :)
just do filters and air foil..... remove baffles in air box and mas screens removed....
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305, TPI,compucam 2030 cam, air foil, 8.8 wires, accel super coil, dynomax headers, custom y-pipe, cut out, 80 series flowmaster, just installed my 3.08 posi disc brake setup...(3.42-3.73 on the way). and a stage 4 chip :0). hittin a sad 15.1 after the chip with 2.73 open diff....
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305, TPI,compucam 2030 cam, air foil, 8.8 wires, accel super coil, dynomax headers, custom y-pipe, cut out, 80 series flowmaster, just installed my 3.08 posi disc brake setup...(3.42-3.73 on the way). and a stage 4 chip :0). hittin a sad 15.1 after the chip with 2.73 open diff....
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Well, as others have suggested, get the air intake system upgraded as much as possible with some sort of a cold air intake setup and high flow air filters (K&Ns or the like). Porting the plenum is a fairly easy mod and will yield some good gains for free... Exhaust system upgrades are also a good area to work on to go with increases in the intake system... The stock manifolds are very restrictive as well as the stock Y-pipe and converter. Swapping in a nice header kit with a nice Y-pipe is a very cost effective mod (not to mention a weight loss mod for the car). A High flow converter will help exhaust flow as well. Then a nice cat back will complete the exhaust system.
You are better off doing bolt on type mods right now that will help somewhat now and even more when you get the motor tweaked up with cam, heads, intake, etc... So any air intake or exhaust system mods will yield good results now and work hand in hand later on when you buildup the internals of the engine.
But just remember that everything works together to help the engine do it's job more effeciently, so there really is no true 'best hp for $$ mod' ...... except maybe the free mods
......
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1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam
My GTA
The Minnesota F-body Club
You are better off doing bolt on type mods right now that will help somewhat now and even more when you get the motor tweaked up with cam, heads, intake, etc... So any air intake or exhaust system mods will yield good results now and work hand in hand later on when you buildup the internals of the engine.
But just remember that everything works together to help the engine do it's job more effeciently, so there really is no true 'best hp for $$ mod' ...... except maybe the free mods
......------------------
1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam
My GTA
The Minnesota F-body Club
Ive since reconsidered my head selection. Im now looking at a pair of gm phase 2 heads from scoggin dickey. im going to call today to see about price. im not wanting to get into the factory short block at this time. if it ends up happening ill let you guys know. right now im really worried about my stock speed density prom working with the new heads. ive got to get the trans pulled out to get it rebuilt. which brings me to my second concern, my drivetrain, will it be able to handle this much power.(about 350 hp im guessing) or should i wait get everything together(heads, headers, runners, TB, new prom) before I start with it.
BTW ive got the L98 in my z28 just in case anyone was wondering.
BTW ive got the L98 in my z28 just in case anyone was wondering.
Trending Topics
Ok heres the situation im reconsidering the vortecs because of the need for new base. Now im looking into a set of GM Phase 2 heads from Scoggin Dickey. Im calling today on prices. at this time im not looking to going into the stock short block. I have a couple concerns 1) will these heads work with my stock speed density ecm 2) will my stock drivetrain be able handle the power. my trans is coming out anyway (had to get it rebuilt) or should I wait and get every thing together be fore i start adding stuff. such as heads, headers, TB, runners, new PROM.
------------------
My Cars:
1992 Z28 L98 700r4 2.73gears gutted airbox, K&N filters, Flowmaster muffler.
1982 Z28 305(BLAH!) Stock (oh well)
My best Time with the 92 9.54 in the 1/8th (first time out)
------------------
My Cars:
1992 Z28 L98 700r4 2.73gears gutted airbox, K&N filters, Flowmaster muffler.
1982 Z28 305(BLAH!) Stock (oh well)
My best Time with the 92 9.54 in the 1/8th (first time out)
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 4
From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
I am surprised Matt didn't make this suggestion; but I think getting Eprom burning equipment should be your FIRST mod, ESPECIALLY if you plan further modifications in the future.
A properly optimized eprom even on a bone stock engine will help with power (along with improving driveability and fuel economy). Best yet, the perfect time to learn to modify your eprom is when your engine is as stock as possible. This way if you make a change (and possibly make a mistake and disable your car) you can revert to the original eprom as a "safety backup".
It is far easier to learn eprom burning when you DON'T have a major need for an eprom JUST to get the engine to run half decently. The changes you'll make will be subtle, but they will make a difference. I have over 1,200 differences between my eprom and my original eprom (when I run it through a Binary Compare Program).
The total cost to get into eprom burning is under $250.00 for the burner, the software and the Flash Proms. Craig Moate has a FREE scan tool software that works well for MAF cars.
Then once you feel that you have made some progress in your learning how to burn eproms, then you can tackle modifying your motor AND make the necessary changes to the eprom to get the most out of your mods. AND, you don't have to go and buy a new eprom EACH TIME you mod your engine.
A properly optimized eprom even on a bone stock engine will help with power (along with improving driveability and fuel economy). Best yet, the perfect time to learn to modify your eprom is when your engine is as stock as possible. This way if you make a change (and possibly make a mistake and disable your car) you can revert to the original eprom as a "safety backup".
It is far easier to learn eprom burning when you DON'T have a major need for an eprom JUST to get the engine to run half decently. The changes you'll make will be subtle, but they will make a difference. I have over 1,200 differences between my eprom and my original eprom (when I run it through a Binary Compare Program).
The total cost to get into eprom burning is under $250.00 for the burner, the software and the Flash Proms. Craig Moate has a FREE scan tool software that works well for MAF cars.
Then once you feel that you have made some progress in your learning how to burn eproms, then you can tackle modifying your motor AND make the necessary changes to the eprom to get the most out of your mods. AND, you don't have to go and buy a new eprom EACH TIME you mod your engine.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,609
Likes: 0
From: www.thirdgentech.com
Car: 2004 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T-56
Actually, I would recommend the opposite of bigger injectors and go to 19lbs and add an AFPR with the pressure cranked to 48-52PSI.
The spray patter is more atomized and will result in a more complete burn of the fuel.
The spray patter is more atomized and will result in a more complete burn of the fuel.
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 10,907
Likes: 4
From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by formul8!!:
Actually, I would recommend the opposite of bigger injectors and go to 19lbs and add an AFPR with the pressure cranked to 48-52PSI.
The spray patter is more atomized and will result in a more complete burn of the fuel. </font>
Actually, I would recommend the opposite of bigger injectors and go to 19lbs and add an AFPR with the pressure cranked to 48-52PSI.
The spray patter is more atomized and will result in a more complete burn of the fuel. </font>
My feeling is to run the smallest injector possible with 46-48 psi while not exceeding 80% duty cycle. Smaller injectors make it easier to tune for idle as the injectors do have a "minimal time" they need to be open (with our batch fire systems). If your injector is excessively large, you may not be able to shorten the pulse width suffient enough for a good idle (or emissions).
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by TravisZ28:
What are the best components(runners, TBs, etc...) to use ,best value $ to HP gained. What have been your experiances with different such components. BTW Im looking into getting the vortec heads and TPI base.
Thanx. </font>
What are the best components(runners, TBs, etc...) to use ,best value $ to HP gained. What have been your experiances with different such components. BTW Im looking into getting the vortec heads and TPI base.
Thanx. </font>
freebies:
- plenum porting -> 1hp
- raising fuel pressure with nickels -> 1hp
- adjusting timing up to 10 degrees -> 1hp
- MAF screen delete -> +/- 0.12hp
- TB coolant bypass -> 0.23hp
expensive ones:
- good exhaust with headers, 3" cat and 3" cat back -> that's good for extra 25hp
- good ported runners: accel or slp -> maybe 10hp?
- tpi airfoil -> 1hp
- air pump delete -> 1hp
now you're safely 250+hp category and your camaro will run low 14's all day long

-P
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,047
Likes: 0
From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Glenn91L98GTA:
I am surprised Matt didn't make this suggestion</font>
I am surprised Matt didn't make this suggestion</font>

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1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam
My GTA
The Minnesota F-body Club
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Glenn91L98GTA:
My feeling is to run the smallest injector possible with 46-48 psi while not exceeding 80% duty cycle. Smaller injectors make it easier to tune for idle as the injectors do have a "minimal time" they need to be open (with our batch fire systems). If your injector is excessively large, you may not be able to shorten the pulse width suffient enough for a good idle (or emissions).
</font>
My feeling is to run the smallest injector possible with 46-48 psi while not exceeding 80% duty cycle. Smaller injectors make it easier to tune for idle as the injectors do have a "minimal time" they need to be open (with our batch fire systems). If your injector is excessively large, you may not be able to shorten the pulse width suffient enough for a good idle (or emissions).
</font>
I just don't want people to get the idea that small injectors at high pressure is some kind of magic. As we both know, once you're in the PROM, if it's feasible (i.e. PWs at idle are OK) then you're gold.
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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The TPI & Carb Boards
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
305 TPI A4 2.73 - 14.7 @ 93.6
Stock except ported plenum and dual cats
-=ICON Motorsports=-
- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die
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