Cracked MAF
#1
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Car: 1994 Jeep Wrangler
Cracked MAF
ok, on my old car when i got into the wreck the MAF housing (the plastic tube arounf the sensor) cracked and is cinda mangled. anyways, the sesor itself seems to be ok (the tiny wire is still intact), so will it work if i just cut all the pastic off and just replace it with some kind of piping from a hardware store?
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Bone stock blue TPI 85' Z28 42k original miles.
My Ride ---> https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=8141
*previous car: lightly moded 89' Formula 350
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Bone stock blue TPI 85' Z28 42k original miles.
My Ride ---> https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=8141
*previous car: lightly moded 89' Formula 350
#4
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Vader:
Duct tape fixes everything...
</font>
Duct tape fixes everything...
</font>
#5
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Car: 1991 Formula
Engine: 355 DFI Superram w/ R-Trim
Transmission: Probuilt 700r4
If it's not cracked too terribly, try some epoxy like jb weld. With some sand paper and paint, you could restore it to look as it did before.
I dont know about pvc pipe. I probably wouldnt try that. But if you must, you would definetly have to be sure you get the same inside diam pipe, down to the millimeter.
I dont know about pvc pipe. I probably wouldnt try that. But if you must, you would definetly have to be sure you get the same inside diam pipe, down to the millimeter.
#6
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by SMURFN' Z28:
ok, on my old car when i got into the wreck the MAF housing (the plastic tube arounf the sensor) cracked and is cinda mangled. anyways, the sesor itself seems to be ok (the tiny wire is still intact), so will it work if i just cut all the pastic off and just replace it with some kind of piping from a hardware store?
</font>
ok, on my old car when i got into the wreck the MAF housing (the plastic tube arounf the sensor) cracked and is cinda mangled. anyways, the sesor itself seems to be ok (the tiny wire is still intact), so will it work if i just cut all the pastic off and just replace it with some kind of piping from a hardware store?
</font>
That being said, you can gently remove the guts, but,
it requires you de-solder the connectors under the top cover,
then gently remove the guts,
then you can get to the hidden heat sink screws and remove the heat sink.
The tube can be repaired with JB Weld then bored as much as 20 to 30 over. If you do not want to over bore, you can get upwards of 40% better flow in the stock bore tube by grinding down the heat sink fins, careful because take away too much and you take away the cooling effect that is needed for now born again MAS.
[This message has been edited by PALM BEACH IROC-ER (edited December 03, 2001).]
#7
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Car: 1994 Jeep Wrangler
thanks guys.... one other thing.
i know the comuter in my 85' is difernt than my 89', but are the maf diferent? can i test the maf on my 85?
------------------
Bone stock blue TPI 85' Z28 42k original miles.
My Ride ---> https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=8141
*previous car: lightly moded 89' Formula 350
i know the comuter in my 85' is difernt than my 89', but are the maf diferent? can i test the maf on my 85?
------------------
Bone stock blue TPI 85' Z28 42k original miles.
My Ride ---> https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=8141
*previous car: lightly moded 89' Formula 350
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#8
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Coulda asked me in the chat
They're different part numbers I believe, but no they aren't different functionally.
I did the ecm swap and still have the orignal maf.
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1985 Iroc-z, 14 second 305, new engine in the works.
They're different part numbers I believe, but no they aren't different functionally.
I did the ecm swap and still have the orignal maf.
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1985 Iroc-z, 14 second 305, new engine in the works.
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