This may be the last time I will be able to really modify my car. It runs 12.9 on drag radials and with the stock, unported tpi - not sure what it runs with the superram, and here are the specs:

ZZ4 Crate Motor (with the heads and cam it came with)
Fully Ported Super Ram
48mm tb
1850 stall dayco converter
shift kit
3.73 gears
k&n air filters
afpr
Edelbrock Headers
hi flow cat
flowmaster
stock suspension

THE COST NEEDS TO INCLUDE INSTALLATION

Here are my thoughts:

52mm tb
sfc's lca's and relocation brackets
3000 stall torque converter from maybe vigilante (not sure)

or maybe even swap out the cam for the LPE 219/219 cam w/1.6 rockers for the 560/560 lift and a chip burned.

Any help greatly appreciated!

I would love to hit 11's and think w/the superram, I may have a 12.6 right now.

 

Nitrous Express and Spohn Performance. Just a thought. I'd guess some time of suspension work whatever you do, and you should be able to install most of it yourself.

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'89 Camaro RS 6cyl. auto, don't know how much longer I'll have it.
'90 Iroc TPI 305, 5 spd B&M Ripper shifter, hopefully I can rob a bank or something and get more
www.geocities.com/irocnroll90

 

I like the mods that you have chosen. Not sure how much it would cost to install all of that stuff though.

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L98, 3.27 9-bolt, Hooker shorty headers, custom 2.5inch Y-pipe, no cat, 3inch 2chamber flowmaster, JET AFPR, Ported MAF, Best ET: 13.86 @100mph. 1.99 60'
17 inch ROH "ZS" wheels. 17x8.5(front) and 17x9.5 (rear). Firestone Firehawk SZ50s. 245/45/zr17s and 275/40/zr17s. T56

On the way... Radar Blue 89 Formula, T56, Ram Jet 430, Ram Air, 17inch ROHs.

 

top!

 

I agree with the 52mm TB and SFCs.
What is your 60', how bad do you need traction? Spend the rest on hooking the car up.

[This message has been edited by BitchinCamaro (edited November 29, 2001).]

 

I agree, depending on 60 ft times,I would go for suspension probly

 

Just as some input this guys "12.9" is on a gtech :P

And I think its time for a real stall, but I wouldn't go as high as 3k, maybe 2400-2600

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don't mind tpi_roc.
He's just jealous my car is driveable. :P

Seriously, tpi_roc thinks that GTECH's are pieces of crap and don't work at all. Anyone who has experiences, please let him know how accurate they are :0)

 

From what I've heard, their e.t.s are usually within 2 tenths many times, but their MPHs are almost 2-5 higher.

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91 Z28
Best Time Slip:
60' - 2.098
1/8 - 9.137 , MPH - 76.21
1/4 - 14.213, MPH - 97.55
Performace Mods: SLP Catback
Appearance Mods: SS wheels, 2.5" Cowl Hood, Clear Side Marker Lights
ICQ: 1437212
AOL: normalmatt9

More Pictures are Here

 

Ah ha, first post in my favor

Anywho, go pay someone to install more mods for you, and make it a stall converter. Use your change on getting to a real strip for an ET.



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First post in your favor? I believe the guy said within 2/10ths! Thats pretty darn accurate if you ask me Remember, I got a 13.4 at the track w/2.73s a few less mods and tire spinnage :P

Thanks for the help anyway tpi_roc, but your still a punk!

 

I think the converter and tb are a good idea. Go big on the stall if you go with the vig. if you go to big PI will redo it for you. A new tourque arm may do you just as well as the SFC's and you can do it in your driveway.

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1991 Z28 ZZ4 with LPE superram base, SLP runners, LPE 58mm T-body,Random Technology ramair,TES headers,24#svo injectors,ZEX nitrous,Walbro 255lph f-pump,Accel AFPR,Random Technology catback,!cats,and mutch more.

[This message has been edited by 91-ZZ4-Z28 (edited November 30, 2001).]

 

Torque arms are a good mod..

to bad it wont make ZZ4 a better driver

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[This message has been edited by tpi_roc (edited November 29, 2001).]

 

a torque arm won't get tpi_roc outta the ghetto either...

 

weak

Anywho, if you wanna go faster, pay someone to install more stuff for you. If you wanna gripe you know where to find me off the board. Leave the boards for us who install our own mods

 

how about sfc, lca, battery relocation to trunk, 3k converter, remove front bumper (i measured 30lbs) and fiberglass hood?

i think hp/tq figures are quite ok with current setup


-P (wish to run 14's)




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Pontiac Trans Am GTA'89

CC1 GW6 G80 JG1 L98 MXO N64 WS6 822

mods: firebird '89 four spoke steering wheel and i'm still not running low 13's yet!

 

3k converters a bit tall for a street machine dont you think?

 

Depends on the quality and brand of the TC, as well as the rear gear ratio. Also on the powerband of the engine.
Cheap TCs will be alot looser with the higher stall, while a high dollar TC from a good company (Yank, PI, Pro Torque, etc) can still be very tight with high stall.
I got a 3200 stall Yank lock-up for my SuperRammed 357. My car also has 3.27 gears that i want to keep though. This will be a great street/srip setup.
Call the TC manufacturers and tell them all your car info and what you want to do with it. That 3200 came directly from Yank's recommendation for my particular setup. Don't make your decission by someone telling you its too radical for the street.

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'88 RS (originally 2.8)
-350, .040 over, vette alum. L98s, stock tpi.
-305 injectors & chip
-TES headers & edelbrock cat back
-3.73 gears, 700r4.
Best with 2.8-17.4@77mph
Best with 305-15.0@93mph
Best with 356-13.7@101mph
on a 2.050 60 ft.
(Damn the 2.8!)

 

2600-2800rpm converter, Either PI Vigi, Yank or ProTorque.

 

Get a TCI torque converter 2400-2800 $375. 3k is just a bit too big for the type of cam you are looking at. Get a cam don't get a LPE cam they are overpriced you can get a hot cam for $175. The ZZ4 cam is too small in my opinion and you could go with a bigger cam with your superram. Keep the 48mm tb think about it they use a 48mm throttle body on the 502 ram jet. Get the spoon subframes $160. With all of this you will still have enough for instalation for the sfc's and you could have the option for getting the lakewood panhardbar$85 and the lower control arms$85

Total=$880 Parts.
Total=$100 Gaskets for the cam install.
Total=$125 Install of subfram connectors.
Grand total of $1105

If you can install the cam yourself you can get away with doing all of this for this price

 

i wouldn't change the cam. your current cam torque peaks lower than hotter cams, but engine in general is made to breath also in high rpm. keep both end, nice tq and screaming high rpm hp. 3k converter is maybe too high for street car. cheap alternative converter is the one used S-10 pick-ups. behind V8 it have stall around 2400rpm.

3rd gen is not balanced when it comes to weight distribution. removing 100lbs from the front and adding some to rear would not make things any worse maybe not 11's, but 12's all day long. and better handling in general.


-P

 

Can anybody else verify this S10 thing? If so i may have found MY next mod

 

A cam is a big job to do your self the first time but it can be very worth it. But you said you had to have the work done for you any way and the HOT cam reqires 1.6 rockers that add another 300$ to the price. I think the mods you listed sound good.

 

'87FAKE-IROC-Z your sig says you have a stock TPI and you pic has a superram?

 

Gah

good point

[This message has been edited by tpi_roc (edited November 30, 2001).]

 

91-ZZ4-Z28,
I had the stock TPI on my last engine that was in the car when i did the sig. It ran the times in the sig with the stock intake.
I put the SR on later but didn't get to drive it too long cause it hydo-locked it a flood shortly after.
Since i had no track times with the SR and it was very shortly on the car i didn't even think of puting it in the sig. I think i will now that you mention it. thanx.

 

Hows this?

------------------
White '88 RS (originally 2.8)
Previous engine-350, .040 over, vette alum. L98s, stock tpi, stock 305 injectors & chip. TES headers & edelbrock cat back. 3.73 gears, 700r4.
Best with 2.8-17.4@77mph
Best with 305-15.0@93mph
Best with 357-13.7@101mph
on a 2.050 60 ft.
(Damn the 2.8!)
New Setup:
4 bolt 357 (10.2:1), AFR 190s (fully cnc ported), LT4 Hot cam (1.6 RRs), Ported SuperRam (upper&lower), Ed Wright custom chip, 24# Accel injectors, Yank 3200 lock-up TC, 3.27 9 bolt rear, some traction! Hoping to see some 12s.

 

simply you have to pick the correct part number for S10 converter. it's the one used corvette's and some s10's.

thirdgen.org and search function will tell you everything about it


-P

 

Okay guys, here is what I'm thinking: Push up the price a bit and get the following:

quality stall converter
sfc's, lca's, relocation brackets
52mm tb
150 shot of NOS

Sound good or will I blow the motor?

 

oh by the way, the reason why I am thinking nitrous now is because I found a guy in my apt. complex that is running 11.9 on a 150 shot of NOS with his 4th gen Z. W/out it, he is running a low 13. I'm wondering what I can run if I hit an 11.9-12.2 w/my superram, and the other non-nos items I mentioned and how much deeper in the 11's I can go w/the nitrous!

 

I think NoS in that volume should be reserved for AFTER your engine is perfectly tuned and set up. I'm not saying its dangerous, but I'm saying it should be one of the last steps.

Get all your hardware, get it on, and get it tuned. When its consistant then spray

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1985 Iroc-z, 14 second 305, new engine in the works.

 

a 52mm throttle body is a complete waste of money. you might as well just mail the 300 bucks to someone and just say you have a 52mm tb. on www.corvetteforum.com , someone dyno'ed a stock LT4 with ONLY a change of stock 48mm tb to a 52mm tb. there was NO CHANGE at all in horsepower or torque output. if this is so on a high breathing LT4, putting a larger throttle body on a L98 is completely useless. maybe upwards of a 406ci with a miniram will you need a larger throttle body.

 

can anyone else confirm what sofa is saying?

 

I can confirm that I've never heard a good word spoken of larger sized throttle bodies.

I know somebody who has owned all 3 sizes personally and only noticed a loss of low end with the larger ones.

No claim of upper end gain

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1985 Iroc-z, 14 second 305, new engine in the works.

 

No. I put a 58 mm TB from stock and picked up 2 mph in the quarter with no loss in low end torque or driveability. Top end charge was better. I have a SR, ZZ3 cam, blah, blah....on a ZZ3 shortblock.

It all depends though, some motors respond better than others.

Dynos are cool but no one races dynos. Track testing is where its at.


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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'

 

A larger throttle body is a good idea if you have a high flow intake (miniram, superram, highflow base and runners) and will make more power. On a stock tpi you will see very little change due to the fact that the increased air flow has no place to go. Some people on the board have been using the ramjet 502 as an example that you do not need a bigger throttle body (it has a 48mm) but this is a bad example it is all about air speed and air volume. Depending on the application a more air volume helps make power. If you look at the ramjet 350 or the LS6 or the LT5 that have large monoblade throttle body’s and flow more air than a duel 58mm and still work very well on a 350. If you run a Superram go for the big t-body.



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1991 Z28 ZZ4 with LPE superram base, SLP runners, LPE 58mm T-body,Random Technology ramair,TES headers,24#svo injectors,ZEX nitrous,Walbro 255lph f-pump,Accel AFPR,Random Technology catback,!cats,and mutch more.

 

you can go two ways on this.1. i like the tb idea and converter.the converter i would choose would be the vigillante at about 2600 stall with your 3.73's you dont need too aggressive of a stall to get going.2. or you can keep a lookout for a SC cheap that needs a rebuild still within your budget that way you can throw the rest of the stuff out the window and blast 10 psi into that motor(you'll need a better fuel system).also those heads don't need such a high lift they perform the best at mid lift numbers,keeping the velocity high will help the tpi do what it was intended for(ramming the second pulse harmonic wave down the intake runner).i know everyone says it,but look at lingenfelter's l98's.he prefers to open up the intake runner slightly on tpi engines and commits himself to giving the area a wider area to exit into the cylinder(larger valves)as well as unshrouding the valves and polishing the chamber.then there is nitrous keep in mind hyper. pistons aren't made for nitrous even if it's tuned properly.the design of that piston is made to expand and press the rings against the cylinder wall for good sealing. you can only expand them so much before you compromise the integrity of the dish.when you use nitrous it's not the nitrous that gives the best benefit since it is at a lower temperature the o2 molecules are considerably larger than na and like the old saying goes an engine is an air pump the more air you get in the more power you can make.by dumping n2o into the mix you cause the piston to expand and contract and that piston isn't made for it.

 

I've heard both stories on the TB thing and both of them include a loss of lowend torque. However a majority of the people seem to agree it wasn't worth the HP/Money ratio. I would look else where to put that 300 bucks. Just my .02

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89 IROC-Z 350 TPI

-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-700R4 (Rebuilt) Too much done to actually list
-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
-MSD 8.5 mm plug wires
-Gutted cat
-!AIR
-Gutted Air Boxes

 

stay away from Yank converters. they are junk. i have heard many people have problems with them. only way to go is either Vig or Coan. TCI is the same as yank, blah. get ur car dynoed to find out where peak torque,hp are. no good running a 3k stall if peak torque is at 2,500 or something.

if you dont have SFCs yet do them, do some shocks and springs, get boxed LCA's and LCA relocation brackets. A new torque arm, yada yada. Juice isnt a bad idea either but if your paying someone to install it, your $1,300 is gone right there for a basic system. Only go with NOS or TNT too, Top gun is junk. NX ive heard good and bad about NX. good luck man.