my Iroc wants to over heat in slow traffic but it is fine when on the open road, ive been told it could be because of my headers, it dident do it until i put headers on it, do i need header rap?, i have a new water pump and i got anti-freeze in it and i put a 160* thromo on it so im assuming its cuz of the headers?, i also removed my smog equipment, i dont no if that wuz a good idea, but someone told me it could free up some HP, so i did it, what do you think?

 

If it overheats when you are in slow traffic it's probably because there is no air getting up into your radiator. Look and see if you still have the air dam (The piece of plastic that hangs down under the front part of the car)

 

Time for a big "BE COOL" radiator be careful they kinda pricey

 

no! no! no!
the air damn would be more of a problem if he was moving fast. i had this problem with my old car. i am willing to bet that your radiator fan/fans are not comming on. either your fans are bad, or you have a bad fan relay (most likely the relay)

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Bone stock blue TPI 85' Z28 42k original miles.

My Ride ---> https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=8141
*previous car: lightly moded 89' Formula 350

 

it only over heats when im in slow traffic, someone told me it wuz because of my headers, because they give of alot of heat, it only overheats in slow traffic, or sitting still, i put a new fan motor on the passenger side fan, but havent checked my relay, BUT what do you guys say about maybe the headers?? could that be it? or no??

 

don't all V8 thirdgens overheat on a hot day in traffic? Mine has always been that way, and all the equipment was working properly to my knowledge.

I remember when I tried driving my Z in the '96 Woodward Criuse.. Surprised I didn't blow the motor!

 

Wire a switch to one of your fans so that you can turn them on at will. Easiest way is to tap into the temp sensor on the block where the fan grounds. Run to a switch then to ground. Now you can turn on one of your fans with switch. Mine runs nice and cool now in traffic. Also, it won't affect the function of the fan with the switch off. Still cycles on/off based on temp.

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87 TA, 305 TPI, Custom CAI, K&N, ACCEL 8mm wires,ACCEL Super-coil, ACCEL Plugs, JET TPI Airfoil, Cherry Bomb Muffler, 160* thermostat
The Phoenix Project..click to see my project car
Trans Am stuff and GIRLS, GIRLS, GIRLS!!!!!

 

dude, i seriously doubt its the headers.
one more question... y did you put new motor in b4 checking the relay? a relay costs like 3 bucks.

there is simple way to figure if it is the fans.. just pop the hood start the car and wait for the temp to rise the fan either come on or it doesnt.

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Bone stock blue TPI 85' Z28 42k original miles.

My Ride ---> https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index...ew&rideid=8141
*previous car: lightly moded 89' Formula 350

 

If you have the dual fan setup, you should be able to just flip on the air conditioner for a few minutes. At least one of the fans should kick on and cool it down real quick. That's what I do at the track to cool the car down while I'm sitting in the staging lanes.

 

Just wire the fans up to run as soon as you turn the key on. Works for me, i can run the AC full blast on a 100 degree day.

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*1989 RS
*Red, Daytona Turbo fiberglass hood, chrome 16x8 IROC wheels
*355 CID
*TPI ported plenum, SLP siamesed runners, Edelbrock high flow intake
*SLP 1 and 3/4 headers with 3 inch catback
*Richmond 3.73, Auburn Posi
*Modded 700-R4, 2800 stall converter
*eibach pro kit and hotchkis strut tower brace

"There is no way you have a 350 in that car. They are made to have 305's and a 350 wouldnt fit"
-local parts store genius-

 

i put a new motor in my car because the other one blew up on me, thats a long story though, and since the new motor it overheats in slow traffic pretty bad! if i sit in traffic to long it goes up to 260 pretty quick

 

The first thing you have to do is to find the part that is causing the problem.And FYI non thirdgens sould overheat, althoug the do run hot due to the fan swithch, the one that is on one of the cilinder heads on the oil gauge side, this switch kicks on at 220deg.
I would sugest you to turn your car on and wait until the temperature reaches 220derees aproximately, then see if the radiator fan turns on or not. If it does not and yor car is hot already, turn the motor off, and turn the key to the on position, then test for voltage at the fan plug or wires. If it has voltage, that means that the fan motor is bad, if you do not get B+ (voltage) that means that something is wrong with the circuit that controles it.Then it could be your fan relay. Or it could be somethig as simple as the wire going to the teperature switch disconected.The most important thing is that you follow a organized troublesooting technique, follow a elimination process, and make SURE that what you ar testing is good or bad take the component out and test it by itself. I hope that helps,good luck.


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