Alright dont laugh I've got a 2.4 2.6 60' Time in my 350 GTA I run a best of 15.3 at 92.1 mph In Calgary alberta (really high elevation) So this is obviouslt uncorrected
Corrected ET is something like 14.6

That's on Comp T/A's (255' 50 16s outback) I lowered the pressure about 10 psi and found out radials run better full... I had 3/4 tank of gas to see if i could get better traction... NOPE. I cut 6-7 lights And i power brake it a little. Even if i launch from idle i still get a ****ty 60 foot.
The car has an Exaust and no cat... THATS IT
MY mph are high so i mean the power's there... What's wrong?

 

there's your problem. you don't even lower et streets or most drag slicks that low.
p.s. this should be in the drag racing board and if you go there you could do a search and come up with tons of info about improving 60'

Andrew

 

I agree that there are probably alot of relevant posts on the racing board to give you some ideas, but i want to give you a piece of advice myself. Just learn to take it easier off the line. Your car is not making that much power, especially factoring in the altitude you're running. There is no reason you couldn't run 2.0 or better 60's just by learning to smoothly get into the gas pedal off the line. It's as simple as that. If you apply less throttle, you don't spin, and you run better et's. A 92 mph car does not need any kind of traction aid to run it's fullest.

 

Also...regardless of what others may say, do a good burnout, and get some heat into your tires. Street tires are made of harder compounds that are designed not to retain heat...so you need to do a good burnout to get some traction. Or get yourself some good drag radials for racing.

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Mike Metzler (Desert86Roc)[*] Check Out:SpeedWorldMotorplex.com[*] Check Out:Chevrolet F-Body Online Part & Illustration Manual[*] www.MetzlerRacing.com

Best ET @ 1250 ft[*] 15.352 @ 91.215 mph (uncorrected)

 

it also depends how "deep" you stage..the the less you go in the better your times will be 60' or 1/4 mile..

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91z28 350tpi auto, runs 14.3... aim screen name nice3rdgenz
http://www.fbody.com/members/nice3rdgenz/index.htm

 

I'm notoriously known for being a very DEEP stager I'll just have to wait till summer when i go back to calgary i guess. I get terrible lights when i dip into the throttle :\

 

I pulled a 2.05 60' at the best... a lot of wheel hop happening there, thats my problem. The Comps may be a little hard, do you know the tread wear on them? My G-Force T/A's are 300 i think... and they grip good, much better than the gatorbacks, i know that much for sure. And no, a huge burnout does not help much.. just a quick spin, a tad of smoke, just to clean off any debris. Besides letting up on the gas pedal, getting softer tires, or tightening up the rear.. there's nothing else I can suggest.

What RPM are you launching at? I find anything over 1300RPM, you just smoke the tires off the line... I had my car sideways when I tried a higher launch RPM... try 1000RPM and lower... When I launched from idle, same thing, too much spin. You have to find that happy medium for your car.

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1988 Pontiac Trans Am GTA L98 5.7L, Black on Black with 114,000kms.

Best ET 14.559 @ 95.25MPH
Custom 3" Stainless Exhaust Y-Pipe back (High flow Cat and Flowmaster Mufler)

 

The G-force literally rip apart the comps, also my tire is a z rated tire i think so, it's extremely hard. Aside from Sticky tires subframes What could be at fault? In the current suspension i am running? Shocks struts... They are all stockers or replacements. I CANNOT find anything in the archives nothing even comes up for sixty foot. Were they deleted?

 

Sure, you can get a little better times w/ better traction, but people seem to forget it also takes power to get great 60' times as well. When have you ever seen a 15 second car cut a 1.7 60'?? NEVER. Traction DOES play a VERY important factor, but its only part of the equation. If you do some suspension mods and get a good gripping tire, I'd be happy w/ a 2.0 60' On a really good day, you might squeeze out a 1.999 but only haveing a mid 14 second car (corrected) I think thats about it.

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If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen

1987 Trans Am 305
14.88 @ 92.81

 

i got a 2.005 60' and i went 15.677 at orlandospeedworld track. it's sea level on 225/60-15 dayton daytona radial tires. i have lakewood adjustable panhard rod and trailing arms. it's all in technique. i give it half throttle imediately then feather the rest. just lots of practice.

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mrrjjdh03@aol.com moderator at www.fl-thirdgen.org

[This message has been edited by mrr23 (edited December 09, 2001).]

 

Try loosening off the front swaybar links. This allows more weight transfer to the rear. But like what was mentioned earlier, more HP/TQ=better 60' times. Just be carefull you don't break the stud on links. They can be really seized, so use some good penetrant.

 

OK, so you have suspension mods, and you just proved my point. So once again, let me ask, when have you ever seen a 15 second car cut a 1.7 60'??? NEVER

Yes, technique is the difference between a 2.4 and a 2.1, but if you want to start cuting consistant 1.9, 1.8, and 1.7's or better, you need more than a 110 HP motor.

 

then i guess my consistant 2.1 60" in my '94 z28 with stock suspension going 12.24 @ 113.90 are flukes. again on 225/60-16 radial tires. to answer your question the ones with slicks. usually 1.8's though.


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mrrjjdh03@aol.com moderator at www.fl-thirdgen.org

[This message has been edited by mrr23 (edited December 09, 2001).]

 

OK, either you don't fully read my posts, or you just can't grasp the concept. I never said traction has nothing to do w/ 60' ft times like you seem to be implying. In order to cut great and consistant times, you need BOTH traction and HP/TQ

If you cut a 2.1 in a car running 12's @ 113 MPH, then no **** sherlock, you need better traction, because the HP/TQ is already there, its not rocket science.

If you cut a 2.1 in a car running 15.6, it won't get much better w/o more HP/TQ

I'd LOVE to see that timeslip of a 15 second car cutting 1.8's w/ slicks, and it has to be legitly a 15 second car, not sandbagging.

 

You might try a little experimenting doing launches on a slick patch of concrete with different tire pressures. Then look at the marks you leave. Is the left and right the same?? If not your posi might be worn out. If the psi is too low you'll see a gap in the middle, too high and the skid mark grows narrow. Sounds like you figured out the best tire pressure and it will be up around 30 psi give or take.

Your lower control arms have a rubber bushing and it will let the rear move just enough for the tires to lose traction. Replace them with an aftermarket set that have the urethane bushing that don't give.

Installing the lca brackets that improves the angle of the control arms is probably the best bang for the buck for off the line traction.

IMHO, our cars have enough power at idle to launch without power braking. Trying to power brake screwed up my reaction times so I probably give up a tenth or two by not doing it.

The difference between shallow and deep staging is about 3 inches and that 3 inches is not going to make a noticable difference in 60' or 1/4 mile times. Do what ever gets you a good reaction time consistantly.

To win in bracket racing you need good reaction times and consistant 1/4 mile times. To get really consistant with your dial in you need to be able to floor it off the line and that is difficult to achieve with hard speed rated tires.

 

Thanks to all who have posted!
Looks like im going to get lca's relocation brackets subframes some stickies and install my headers and im hoping to slash 5 tenths. ITs this REALISTIC? Could i pull a 2.0 and a 14.9 Uncorrected? I've already got an exhaust

 

Smokin 87 iroc i think you misunderstood what i meant by lowering my tire pressure, perhaps i wasnt clear. I lowered my tire pressure 10 psi
From the 43 to a 33 43 is the recommended psi for this tire. I thought that just had to be insanely high

 

Smokin 87 iroc i think you misunderstood what i meant by lowering my tire pressure, perhaps i wasnt clear. I lowered my tire pressure 10 psi
From the 43 to a 33 43 is the recommended psi for this tire. I thought that just had to be insanely high

 

Smokin 87 iroc i think you misunderstood what i meant by lowering my tire pressure, perhaps i wasnt clear. I lowered my tire pressure 10 psi
From the 43 to a 33 43 is the recommended psi for this tire. I thought that just had to be insanely high

 

I have run a 2.0 60 foot and a 14.9 uncorected the problem i had was when i hit 2nd the tires went up in a blaze and the car instantly went from 1st to 3rd i had to let off the throttle and get back in it. I was really mad i had this moded 96 z in my rearview when it happened. needless to say he won but we ran the same trap speed (96 or 97 mph with airdensity of arround 5000 ft). Things happen with traction that is not your fault or the fault of the car. people blow up their cars all the time at the track and there is sometimes a patch of oil that you are not ready for. I say just practice and keep going sooner or later you will run what your car is capable of. Yes you could run a mid 14 with that car the way it is. If you get traction your trap will also improve. if i run a bad 60 foot time like a 2.2 my trap goes down nearly 2 mph.

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90 IROC l98
last season best corected 13.62 @102
mods
full exhaust, AFPR, pulley, jet stage 1 chip, billet servo, 52mm throttle body, slp runners and some 1.6 RR's and a few other little things.
243 RWHP and 342 RWTQ with hot engine and 90 octain fuel

 

Going along w/ what I said, I think that its very possible to get a 2.0 60', and you may get it w/ traction improvements alone. My car only runs 14.8 and all I have are boxed LCAs and 255 BF Goodrich tires and I can do an occasional 2.0 60' ft. However, if you want to go below the 2.0 mark, you WILL need more ***** under the hood.

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If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen

1987 Trans Am 305
14.88 @ 92.81

 

Get your 60's down to 2.1x and you will be in 14's for sure. Subframe connectors might hurt you a little since some are pretty heavy.
With ET Streets I can floor it at the line and I get a long chirp (short squeel??) and the 1-2 doesn't throw me sideways anymore.
I broke 2.0 and 14 second barrier on the same run. 1.99 and 13.98 at 99 mph.

 

Gm tech is correct. I was getting 1.8--1.9 60 ft times with my 406 with a stock suspension and street tires. So it does take more than sticky tires and suspension work to get good 60 ft times

 

Im putting sub frames on the car because its amazingly clean, some friends say if i detailed the engine compartment i could put it in some shows... And i've got t-tops
I dont want to play with fire.. just keep the car straight.

 

Subframe connectors are a must for our cars whether it adds a little weight or not. Double that with t-tops. A strut tower bay brace is worth getting too.

 

understand your posts completely. i agree suspension mods help greatly. but, at the same time my answer was technique before buying all the mods. you can have all the mods you want, but no technique, not good 60' times. we're both right. no arguement here on your suggestion. my suggestion is practice launching techniques.

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mrrjjdh03@aol.com moderator at www.fl-thirdgen.org

[This message has been edited by mrr23 (edited December 11, 2001).]

 

My AMX is a perfect example of a light car with not a ton of HP,its hooks hard ,is tuned right and is light 3150 with me in it
12.94@102.3 on a 1,84 60 ft.MPH is hurt due to the stock AMC camshaft LOL

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86 z28 zz4 ssm lift bars ,3.73 simesed runners and a traction deficient 13.707@101.02,on a 2.16 60 ft on 295/50/15 junk street rubber ,best MPH run 13.82@102.7,69 AMX,390 4 speed sticky tires and other stuff..12.94@102.3

 

I can agree on that. If you just drop the hammer and blaze the tires, you gonna just sit there and smoke. The more "under the hood" mods you do, the more "technique" you need, regardless of what you have done to the suspension. Lots of variables, and thats part of what makes racing so grand.


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If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen

1987 Trans Am 305
14.88 @ 92.81

 

car also has 90/10 front shocks , 50/50 rear,running on 12.5\15 MT sportsman pro's ,and skinnys up front leaving ar 4800 rpm

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86 z28 zz4 ssm lift bars ,3.73 simesed runners and a traction deficient 13.707@101.02,on a 2.16 60 ft on 295/50/15 junk street rubber ,best MPH run 13.82@102.7,69 AMX,390 4 speed sticky tires and other stuff..12.94@102.3

 

look

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Jethro
1987 IROC Z 13.92 and 1.92 60' street tires stock engine