hey all....

well my dad and i finally decided to build an engine from scratch because my l98 has spung a bearing on the dyno last monday and now is knocking pretty badly.... so were building a completely new motor to drop into my GTA..i already bought the 4 bolt main block ready to be competely machined, bored and balanced.... i have the funds to do this project because i have been saving money and expecting to get my tax money back in jan.... so i was wondering what yall thought about this build and what kind of horsepower to the wheels i should be making...and yes i will be using my tpi intake system

Project Shadow......

freshly rebuilt 1993 sbc 4 bolt main 350 block bored .30 over
competely forged internals
Afr 180cc eliminator street heads
GM Hot cam 218/228 .525 .525 on 112lsa
comp cam 1.6 non align rockers
SA performance double timing chain
Cranes Adjustable fuel regulator set at 48psi
Flowmasters 80’s series 3.5 inch catback
Catco High Flow gutted converter
Custom 3 inch built Y-pipe
Heated O2 sensor
Hedman Longtube Street headers
Ported and Siamesed SLP runners
Ported and Siamesed Plenum
lightly Ported Edelbrock High flow Intake
SVO 24lb Injectors
SLP cold air intake with K&N air filter
SLP airfoil
IAT relocated to SLP air box
160 thermostat
Throttlebody Bypass
EGR delete
Heater valve delete
Air/smog delete
LT1 Starter
Heavy duty flywheel
MSD 8.5 super conductor wires
Accel super coil
Performance radiator
Pro built 700r4 rated at 500 horsepower
B&M shift kit
Tranny cooler
2500 converter
High flow water Pump


is this a good setup.... will i see over 300whp with this combo and will i see 12 secs....

 

Sounds good, but it essentially boils down to tune. The TPI intake will
restrict horse and might even keep you from the 300 mark at the
wheels unless it is modified or aftermarket.

Torque would be astronomical, and if you can get the car to grab some
asphalt.. 12's are obtainable, many have done so and beyond.

I saw your ditching the L98 roller block, Why? what are you doing with it?
Also, your punching the block out .30 over, maybe you should send those
AFR180s in for some 195's. Id think about using that L98 block and maybe
going the stroker route.

It is easier for me to say your car will see 12's more so than it will see 300rwhp.

Sounds pretty good though.

 

cause i wanna take my original motor out and keep it in the garage.... i have my original tpi and cam and injectors and manifolds.... ima put all the stock stuff back on and just keep the original motor in the garage and refresh it later.... but my tpi system isnt stock at all, everything is aftermarket and all ported out... cost me close to 2 grand for all the highflow tpi stuff and then to hog it out and its all port matched. it revved all the way to 6 grand very easily before the motor took a dump..... and actually the new engine is a 355... ima have my new project done before the summer comes.... hopefully i will see around 350whp and over 400wtq with this combo and a tune of course...

 

Here are a few thoughts. Most people here prefer the Holley AFPR why the Crane AFPR? What distributor are you going to use, may I suggest the MSD distributor. Edelbrock makes a good high flow water pump called their Victor series. You will be using a Bosch heated O2 sensor. Check out TPI parts for the wiring harness for the heated O2 sensor. There are intake bases that flow better than the Edelbrock such as the TIPS unit. I posted a link to an article entitled “Ten Times the Torque” that discussed this on another recent post. A few years ago I remember reading about some problems people encountered by siamesing runners and intake bases. You may want to do some research on this point. Try a Mr Gasket high flow 160 degree thermostat. What radiator Griffin, Be Cool, …? Consider all new sensors (TPS, IAC, MAF …) at this time unless they are relatively new. Check out TPI parts for these.

One more thing check your throttle body for vacuum leaks. If it is old the bushings may be worn and leaking vacuum. I recently found mine leaked and had new bushings installed, however, if I had to do it over again I probably would have gotten a new after market throttle body due to rubbing butterfly valves.

 

Yea I understand you were going with a 355. But, alot of guys
have sent the blocks to be machined for stroker clearances.
I like your idea of keeping the l98 block safe and untouched
with most of the factory components in the garage.

You will be glad you did that later in life!

I second the BC GTA notion about the TPIS intake base, but
that is splitting hairs.. the Edelbrock should work just fine for
you.

With a good tune and those heads with the hotcam,
I dont see any reason why you cant make it happen.

 

i didn't siamese the base just ported a tiny bit.... only the plenum and runners are siamesed..... and i already have my heated oxygen sensor hooked up, my crane afpr never gave me any problems since i had it which is close to a year now.. my distributor is new and never gave me any problems, just did a complete tune up less than 6 months ago. my radaitor is a high flow unit and is less than 6 months old and my water pump is new also.... i dont think you understand... i already had this stuff running on my l98 for almost a year now.. everything listed below is less than 2 years old.....

SA performance double timing chain
Cranes Adjustable fuel regulator set at 48psi
Flowmasters 80’s series 3.5 inch catback
Catco High Flow gutted converter
Custom 3 inch built Y-pipe
Heated O2 sensor
Hedman Longtube Street headers
Ported and Siamesed SLP runners
Ported and Siamesed Plenum
lightly Ported Edelbrock High flow Intake
SVO 24lb Injectors
SLP cold air intake with K&N air filter
SLP airfoil
IAT relocated to SLP air box
160 thermostat
Throttlebody Bypass
EGR delete
Heater valve delete
Air/smog delete
LT1 Starter
Heavy duty flywheel
MSD 8.5 super conductor wires
Accel super coil
Performance radiator
Pro built 700r4 rated at 500 horsepower
B&M shift kit
Tranny cooler
2500 converter
High flow water Pump

my l98 is still in the car as of now, it was running pretty strong before it took a dump... but my dad and i are building an new 4 bolt main engine and swapping my old engine out... the only thing thats really changing is the block cam and heads... everything else will be used....

 

OK, I thought that was what you were proposing to purchase and install with this engine overhaul. Do check your throttle body for vacuum leaks. Good luck.

 

If you're thinking of the LT4 HOT cam may I suggest the Comp XFI268HR-113 instead?

The HOT cam is 15+ years old now, while the XFI268 is only a year old. The XFI268 has better ramps and more lift, while the 113 LSA will make it easier to tune. After seeing Allan's 360 RWHP with this camshaft, I'm sold on it.

And with that smog delete, you better be faster than me or I'm gonna laugh.

 

lol... well it looks like my dad already bought the gm hot cam.... and doesnt wanna send it back... its not even here yet.... i guess it will do... im not tryna squeeze every ounce of power i can get.. just a nice build..... at least its better than the 2032 cam that i previously had so im thankful for that.... what kind of pistons should i use for the afr 180 heads and the hot cam...

 

Ok if you've already bought the cam then use it. Its still a great cam.

For pistons and rods, you mentioned "completely forged internals" so you want forged pistons and forged rods? I didnt see nitrous or a blower on your list, did I miss it? You can use the hypereutectic pistons and cast rods if you want, for less money. Otherwise for forged stuff I would recommend Manley, of course.

 

yeah i was planning on using nitrous a few times.. plus i wanted the extra insurance with forged internals... i minus well do it right the first time since im down here.... but afr recommends using either dished or flat top pistons for their afr 180 heads... is that true...

 

Did you go with the street or the comp port AFR's?

Looking forward to your dyno graph!

Do you have any goals?