So I put new injectors (22lb) in my L98 350 TPI. I put new Accel Plugs and wires in too. Found out my hard start was the old IAC. So I replaced that too.

Seemed like it was running great! Smooth Idle, start great every time. Until I tried to drive the car. Now it won't go over 30 mph and it feels like it is chugging when you accelerate. Also once it heats up to get it to start I have to feather the gas pedal while i turn the key. Didn't have this problem till i tried to drive it.

Now it is giving me the code 36 MAF Burn off. I swapped the relays and it made no difference.

None of this makes sense to me anymore. This car just does not want to run. I think I have met my match. Any ideas that won't require a lot of money. I have already thrown a lot of money at this car to have it do different things every time I think it is fixed.

BTW: Had new High flow cats and headers put on less than 1000 miles ago. New fuel pump and regulator

 

Does the code stick/constant? If your burnoff circuit is the problem, it could
cause a high/low readings @ the MAF and wreak havoc on anything timing/ignition
related.

and, it will only exacerbate the issue at operating temperature.

Can you hear the burnoff operation after you start/shut the motor down?
There should be a very audible click, easily heard with windows down. If
you dont, that is a good place to start looking. The next best thing is to
get a volt/ohm meter out and start troubleshooting the burnoff circuit and
MAF operation. Also, did you properly adjust your IAC when installing?

If your confident your problem is electrical and not mechanical
related, I would start there and work the problem. Money wont
solve the problem, unfortunately it never does.

Also, specs on fuel pump and psi @ the regulator/rail will help us!

 

Here's a quick rundown of the code 36.

This test will determine if the burnoff operation is active or if the code was
set by an intermittent condition. First, check for 12volt supply to the burnoff
relay and grounding CKT 900 should energize the relay.

To do that, make a jumper wire at ECM connector E12 and test light it.
If that is dim, then you have a possible corroded or bad connections. If
it passes the test, replace relay. Forgive the "techno babble" I meant
to post the electrical diagram, but I cannot find it.. Ill get one up!

Someone mocked up a troubleshooting chart to help in the meantime, rather helpful ^ ^


Good hunting!

 

Thanks guys. I will get to it on Monday night. I hope I am successful.

BTW...Fuel pressure was checked before doing injectors. It was good.

 

Ok cool, Ill try to scan a wiring diagram for you, if I can find one on the net.

 

How did you make out Formy? Did you still need me to track down a code 36 wiring diagram?

Please consider that piece of advice, you can hear the burnoff operation
when you start/shut off the car from inside the cab if you listen close
enough. Or stand outside the car with the hood up and try it.

If you know it works, that will save you alot of time!

 

Couldn't find the one on the boards but, this works just as good.
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

 

Thanks. First though I need to Find a Coil to Distributor wire. mine not only has been repaired once before me, but it now has a spot where it is almost completely worn away. Lucky for me it is right at the plug so that I cannot fix it. I will try to find one at the junk yard on Saturday. Te dealer wants $50, and cheapest online I can find is $40 delivered.

I almost think that was the problem. It might have been loosing contact when i tried to drive it and made the car chug.

I can hope. Right?

 

That could easily cause you some problems! Let's pray together!