I am at my wits end with this one, I already burned up 1 brand new motor and Its acting up again , I put together a Speed Density TPI on a 350 this is being swaped into a 2004 Jeep Wrangler using a howell harness and ecm, everything is new all sensors etc... When I start it all appears well, but after 10 minutes or so the oil is saturated with fuel so badly in fact it torched my first motor, I thought I had it pinned down but apperantly not as I stated the oil gets saturated so I shut it down and cool it off seems ok, I hop in put it in gear drive about 50 feet and it sputters and runs horribly misfires etc.. new distributor , coil,wires etc.. Could it be bad injectors they are rebuilt not factory new ??? like I said with no load on it seems great but once I load it it really falls can't even drive it. I have several thousand invested in this and cannot come up with a good solid maybe at this point PLEASE HELP

 

You could have plug wires swapped creating a dead miss. This will allow the unburnt fuel to work it's way through to the oil pan.
You could also have bad injectors. Not closing. Always squirting.
You could be squeezing the injectors between the rail and manifold. (happened to me). Should only be a possibility if you're using an aftermarket manifold.

 

Whats the quickest way to check the injectors a pressure test ?? I am thinking thats whats going on, bad new injector/s I am sure its not the plug wires , way too omuch fuel in oil for a wire or 2 out of whack, Like I said earlier it fires in 2 rotations seems to run fine until it gets to operating temp, then I put it in gear and try and drive it sputters gets hot over fuels and basicaly runs like garbage

 

Check your fuel pressure.
The way to know without a doubt is to lift your rail and watch the ends of the injectors with the fuel pump test connector powered with 12v.

Checking the fuel pressure and watching will let you know if you need to dive in deeper.

 

Hey MachZee,
Yours really sounds close to the same problem I was having months ago. It finally would not start... then wouldn't turn over because of gas hydro-lock. At least you know you are getting gas in the oil before it's too late.
Check out my old page:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...off-major.html

Another one similar:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...-flooding.html

Lots of tests results and conditions listed in those two threads that may be similar to your situation. Hopefully, it helps.

 

Check your intake manifold gasket. My buddy had the same problem. If gas is getting in the oil, thats the only thing I can think of. That could also be the problem with the sputter you are talking about. That could be a vacuum leak, caused by a bad intake gasket.

 

Killer Info thanks a bunch , I also drained a few gallons of gas out of the first motor i smoked, 4 grand into a motor and a year into a swap job and torched it, I just rebuilt it and fired it up then shut in down and gas again I think I am just gonna go get an ecm and swap it out first , I am intrested in the coil wire gounded comment in the second link... I have been hearing an arcing in the distbutor that doesnt belong and when I hand advanced the distributor or retarded it with motor off it cuased the pump to spray again then if I moved the distributor again with the motor off and key on it sprayed again and it will keep doing it ????

 

Ok i was excited to get wrenching this is what I found, I unplugged all injectors and ohmed them 14.8 ish low but ok all within .1 , checked the harness key on each injector wire was 12 volts resistance was 88k ohms eccm unhooked no rrsistance tells me no short, checked tps was .52 at idle and 4.83 wot, fuel pressure ok , no ruptured diaphram pulll vac hose and hit the key dry as a desert, I really need help guys Im dying here, I read a post about a bad pick up coil sounded similar to my problem but not exactly, could this be my problem , heres a strange note to metion if have key on and move the ditributor the fuel pump turns on and primes if i turn it back and forth it keeps setting fuel pump off ? I hit the key and it fires in a split second but its rich as a bastard, I have the knock sensor by passed with a 3.9 resitor soldered to the harness and grounded I get no lights and the ses is working properly. I also read on a bad cts mine is new so I really dont think I need to go that way , about the only thing used in the whole motor is the distributor. HELP

 

Loose wire on the dizzy connection??

Just knew it was a fried injector switch or ground harness.

If the CTS wire is damaged or the sensor is bad, it will pump gas thru the cold start injector. If you have one, unplug the wires, and see if that changes anything.

 

The ECM is going to use referance signal from the distributor to run the pump while the engine is cranking or running. The ECM probably sees the movement of the distributor as a reference pulse and it's turning the distributor on. SOMEONE PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I"M WRONG... But I'm pretty sure that's what keep sthe pump running while cranking or running. I don't think that is your problem.

I totally agree with tinymay on the CTS. If that is grounded, or bad it will dump fuel into the motor. I did this by accidentally installing my water temp gauge on hte CTS, and I got major black smoke upon start up. Check the CTS circuit for proper operation.

 

By the way do you have any codes?

 

no codes and the cts is fine , I just ordered a carb and manifold 1 year is long enuff

 

Everybody has their limits. Wish you could have found the problem.
Good luck with the carb.

 

For what it's worth... that's exactly how I found my injectors spraying like 8 car wash nozzles. Lifted the fuel rail and injectors, layed a blanket underneath them and turned the key to run. WOW... a two second blast-a-rama!! Had the fire extinguisher handy. Last thing I wanted was to burn the house down. Anyways, that was the only way to know for sure what the injectors were doing.

Bad injectors, a grounded harness or a fried ECM injector switch would cause that condition. Watching how many injectors spray would give a clue what direction to go with the troubleshooting too.

Oh well... That sure would have looked cool in that Jeep.
Whoever get Mach's box of new parts will have to solve it, huh.