I originally had a 1991 rs with a 305 tbi , and T5. I then bought a 1988 Iroc Z equipped with a 5.7 TPI, 700R4. I swapped the TPI engine into my RS. I swapped the fuel pump, ecu, and the wiring harrness. I turn the key into the on position and the fuel pump turns on and makes this humming sound but it doesnt turn off. I crank the ignition and the engine turns over but it wont start, it just rapidly turns.

Things that I changed: I changed the coil to an accel high performance coil and i changed all the spark plug wires to accel 8.5 mm header wires except for the one that goes to coil to the distributor cap because I lost it. I changed the thermostat housing because it was rusted and when i took off the old one it didnt have a thermostat so I bought one and put it in. I took off all the emissions stuff and put on some hooker shorties headers, took off the ac and smog pump and replaced it with an ac bypass pulley and a smaller belt (https://www.thirdgen.org/serpentine) and I plugged ALL of the lines/hoses that went to the smog stuff up. Oh and i put the TPI to my T5, i dont know if that makes a difference.

 

Just a couple things. First, keep at hand a spare coil because Accell stuff is not dependable. Don't waste your money on the coil or the ignition moduel. I've gone through those like crazy. Wires should be fine. Any way, do you have spark? Also check to see what the fuel pres. is at the shrader valve on the fuel rail. You need to first check the simple obvious stuff first.....spark??....fuel???? Try a search of fuel pump not shutting off perhapes. You can also pull all that smog pump stuff as well. It will give you alot more room to work. I'm talking the diverter valves/relays etc... That's what I did and what a difference.

 

Do you have an aftermarket ECU? because they didnt offer a 5.7 t5...

 

Click, It looks like he swapped that out in the first post with an OEM. I see what your saying about the prom program and the trans. You're right about that. I would think it should atleast try and fire-up. Randy, Try some starting fluid in the throttle body, not the intake hose. That thing should bark. Check the tach if it's moving when you crank.Quick test to see if spark is working. BTW, if you need to get a new chip/prom...don't waste your money on a custom burned chip. For the money they charge, you can get the stuff to do it yourself and also learn a ****-load of stuff about how your car works. Buy an original shop manual. Don't get a Haynes manuel.. It will be the best $100.00 you'll ever spend...TRUST me on that.

 

hey good news.. i got the bad boy to start. I had installed the coil on the wrong way. but now, its acting funny with the idle. sometimes it will start and some times it wont. every time I spray start fluid in the throttle body (like Chrisry1995 said) it'll start, im not sure if the injector wires or injectors are good. The idle acts loopey. when i drove it and hit the gas the rpm would shoot up and take a while to drop back down, soO im thinking its the throttle body spring or injectors thats not functioning properly.

Question? If i remove all the smog stuff, do I have to install an EGR block off plate on the intake?

where do I buy a shop Manual from?

 

I think it better to leave the egr working. Can kill your performance. Do you still have the black thing with 2 tiny hoses and an electrical connector that is right next to the coil and distribitor. That is what controls the EGR. The smog pump circuit is seperate from EGR. Also, that being a 88 motor, it should have the cold start injector. You'll want to check each injector's coil for about 15 ohms of resistance. They should all be within 1 ohm of each other. Need a ohm meter and then just push the metal wire thing on the injector while pulling up and the connector will come right off..alowing you to check the coils.Also cleaning out the throttle body with spray and also the stepping motor circuit. There is alot of info on that subject on here. Helm's in Detroit Mi. used to have the manuals. I'll check to see if they are still around and let you know.

Helminc.com is the place. Has 1988 firebird for $105.00

 

Yea i still have the egr on the intake with the hoses and stuff. Im not sure why but its running shi*y. Im starting to hear this loud ticking sound by the number 2 and 4 injector

 

Did you run the Iroc before the swap?? How was it running? When you hear the ticking, Try and pull the connector off the #2 and #4 injector to see if that effects the noise you are hearing. Sometimes the injectors will make a tick sound when they go bad. Also see if the idle changes when you pull the injector..one at a time. Should see/hear a difference in idle. If not, that injector's not right.