My fuel pump is starting to get a little weak so Im going to put in a new one in the next few weeks. I will be doing it myself and thought I would ask and see if anyone had some pointers on the best way to go about it and what to expect.

THANKS

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Mods. GMPP Vortec heads, Comp Cams XR269HR, Crane Gold Rockers, Hooker headers, SDPC intake manifold, Edelbrock Runners, MSD Coil, Holley AFPR, free flow exhaust, Air Foil, TB Bypass, K&N filter.

 

Cut a hole, or drop the rear end, & tank. I have seen lots of good threads on this here. Look it up if you want to cut. Otherwise its a cookie cutter job, & the chilton will do just fine.

 

Don't cut a whole...you loose support of floor in trunk....also you have to modify the metal fuel lines so that you can get pump assembly out....I think bad idea. To get tank out correctly you have to
1. Jack car off ground....high as you can safely on jack stands on frame, not rear end (see below why)
2.unplug battery
3.remove exhaust pipe and muffler assembly from axle back.
4.unbolt wheels (if needed) and remove
5.unbolt rear shocks, torque arm, driveshaft, panhard bar and upper panhand bar support bar, lower control arms, brake lines, and anything else attached to rear axel
6.remove rear axel out of way of car.
7.remove heat shield where gas tank is
8.unplug electrical connector in front of tank
9.support tank (jack) and unstrap the two tank straps
10.unbolt 3 bolts at gas filler neck (where you put gas in,)and take off gas cap.
11.start rolling tank down slowly....rolls down in front (that's why you take axel out)
12.when you can reach them....undo the 3 fuel lines from tank and the breather line(I think it's 4 lines total...not for sure) (remember where they go)
13.then pull tank out. you'll have to work it out since filler neck is solid..roll it up and down, (this is the hardest part besides trying to get it back in there)
14.change pump and fuel sock(filter in tank)
15.reinstall in reverse order.
make sure to change in line fuel filter up on frame rail and check for leaks.

I don't think I missed anything but someone please check....If you have a lift you can do it without taking rear axel off all the way.
It's not hard to do this, just time consuming....if you have never done it...give yourself all day, maybe a weekend to get it done....and buy a GOOD pump...name brand...like Bosch or holley or something so you don't have to do it again soon. hope that helps...don't cut holes....do it right or don't do it at all IMO....hope that helps...

 

Or you can get a walbro pump from www.racetronix.com like I did.

 

I'm not getting that link to work. I even went to the sight and clicked on walbro and it still don't work.

 

I figured that was pretty much what had to be done just wanted to get a second opinion, I will probably tare it apart this weekend.

THANKS

 

have fun with that....i know it sucks...

 

I've done 2. One on the floor and the other on a lift. Neither one of them was a walk in the park.
Have fun making up new words.

 

Guys,the access panel really isn't bad if its done right.
In fact,its quite pleasant if you ask me.The area that (needs) to be cut does not take away any structure support from the vehicle.
Please read this link before any of you access hole haters call me an idiot for hacking up my car! http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/tur...utes-less.html

 

Well I took my car to a buddys shop to hook his fuel pressure gauge up just to make sure mine wasnt off and sure enough it was, I guess when they say not for permanent use they mean it. After I took they gauge off i noticed gas behind the plastic lens, not good. But anyways my gauge was reading around 25psi and my buddys gauge read around 45psi and I trust his. However when I thought my gauge was correct I kept turning up holley fpr and ended up maxing it out, my question is why is the psi only at 45psi it should be way above that. There is no gas coming out the vacuum line so I dont think it is a torn diaphragm. After warming up and shutting off when I go to start it again the idle surges up and down almost to a stalling point but after about 30 seconds it evens out. It also tends to stall when I first put it in gear. Once it is in gear it never stalls though.

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Mods. GMPP Vortec heads, Comp Cams XR269HR, Crane Gold Rockers, Hooker headers, SDPC intake manifold, free flow exhaust, Air Foil, De-screened MAF, TB Bypass, K&N filter, MSD Coil. Edelbrock runners, Holley AFPR, SFC.

 

I was able to pull my tank without removing the rear, just had to take off stab. bars. Getting it back in proved a little more difficult but i got it done.

 

This is probably the link you're looking for:

http://www.racetronix.com/RX-FL98-FPKG-2.html

They also have a pump and harness for the 99+ F-body plastic tanks. Looks pretty slick.

 

That looks like a winner to me (hole in the sheet metal), thats what I'll do when my time comes.

 

Hi Folks
dropped my tank and replaced the pump. Had to remove items on the rear end - did not complete remove the rearend - tight but manageable. I did not want to cut a hole in the car. if you plan just to have some fun and sell the car in the future, cut away.
thanks
Bill

 

Most people (that cut a hole in the car) do exactly what that guy did and cut the 4 metal lines and introduce 4 new places for potential leaks. I like the self attaching nuts he used though, although I wonder if the screws are still protruding into the tank area.

 

I did my fuel pump in the driveway up on jack stands in 2 evenings. I spent a total of 9hrs to complete the job.

No holes, no cut fuel lines. Do the job right, no need to cut a access panel, the first fuel pump lasted 23yrs. JMHO and experience

 

 

You know what guys, I'm not knocking doing it the right way, but how many times have you had a part fail that you replaced before? I've bought brand new stuff before and it didn't work the first time. So on something like this, I think there should be an access hole there in the first place, unless you just like all that work. And I've never had a compression fitting leak. So again for me, I'll cut a hole, and who cares about the value of the car, how much is it really worth anyway, and no one would ever even see it under carpet.

 

Yes, parts fail. Even new parts. It's a fact of life.
Ultimately the decision is left to the individual on the method they choose.
I'm not advocating one over the other but i've done it twice the intended way and plan on doing it the intended way if I ever have to do it again.
My choice.
Unibody's are weak to begin with. The fewer the holes in 'em, the happier i'll be.

 

I kind of like the idea of cutting a hole. My 87 vette I had was so easy when it came to repalcing the fuel pump. Just take off the gas lid door and the rubber fitting inside. The fuel pump sits right on top. Took like 20 to 30 mins to do. I wish the f-bodies had the same design. However it can be done right if someone takes the time and has the patience.

 

Yah that's what I think too. Cause you never know when it will go out again.

 

The debate over cutting the whole vs dropping everything is a never ending battle. I for one am for it buts that's just me. Here is a thread that has been being discussed on here recently with some measurements on the dimensions where the whole needs to be so if you go that route hopfully this will help.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...ml#post4088257

 

We do not recommend cutting an access hole. The tank should be removed, inspected and cleaned before installing a new pump.