Hi all, i finally got datamaster and a laptop for my car for the reason my car is really slow and embarrassing(wont start hot)

anyways, while under 50% throttle the car shows 30-35 degrees of timing....BUT if i press the gas petal 100% the spark advance dips to 20-21 degrees of advance and slowly rises to 29.9 degrees advance. I know this is hurting my cars performance due to every sbc ive had runs best from 32-35 degrees advance 3000 rpms and above


My question is why is the spark advance dropping up so sharply if the motor isnt pulling timing due to knock sensor?(no knock showing up andf no retarding is happening)

My car is laboring and is only running close to mid 15's in the 1/4 mile and before tpi it was running low 13's with the crap 083 heads(tpi is bad but damn not this bad)

tps is set right on the money, brand new distributor, new coil, new ign module, new cap/rotor/wires/plugs, BASE timing is at 6 degrees perfectly......would a bad map sensor mess this up? it seems to be reading accordingly to throttle postion IDK


then theres the no hot start issue....if car sits for 3-4 hours it will refire......OR disconnect battery and coolant temp sensor and car will refire instantly after hook batery up It really sucks because id like to drive car somewhere and not have to pop hood and reset car everytime

im this close to buying another honda and giving up on 3rd gens lol

 

Its called the timing map..When you open the throttle, it increases the MAP. This moves the cell that the timing is being calculated from to a higher loaded area. Tossing it to 30* may not help performance.. In fact it may harm it and knock the ring lands off your pistons.

 

im not sure why...but EVERY sbc ive ever owned loved running 31-35 degrees of advance(depending on how built motor is lol)

but anyways......i installed a bosch 13077 3 wire setup on my car and it opened up a new can of worms. At idle and light throttle cruise it sits at 14.73 and runs great. As soon as you stomp gas the AFR drops into teh rich zone very badly.....so bad its 11.4-11.8

so maybe this is why my car is running like a turd......

also i can not figure out why this car got a no start when shut off hot and come back 10-15 minutes later....leave car alone for 4 hours or unplug the CTS and bam car starts. Unpluggin the CTS doesnt work everytime but it helps

 

The CTS is only used below 40*F, so it can be disconnected if temps are above that.

I would try leaving it unhooked and see how it starts. It may be being used when it is not needed. The temp sensor could be bad allowing extra fuel at warmer temps.

 

CTS is used during ALL PCM calculations, including startup. It even has a hand in timing calculations.

 

The cold start temp sensor is what I was trying to refer to, it only runs the cold start injector.

 

True with the cold start injector. If its even being used on his car. I guess thats the next question. Is this a Speed Density setup or Mass Air Flow. By the year I would think SD, but then again, you said it was swapped to TPI, so it could be either way.

 

the cold start cars used a switch located NEXT the CTS....i can prove it due to im using the older lower base and had to plug the cold start switch with the switch lol.

so a friend added 2* of timing and its running FAR better at 31* advance. no knocking at all and motor loved 34* advance back with carb.