I have a big question, I posted this earlier and I didn't get many answers.. Here's my problems..

After I warm the car up to temperature, and turn it off, it refuses to start back up, It almost seems like it's not getting a strong enough spark.. So my brother and I went on to changing the spark plugs, and the cap and rotor. But then I remembered what my grand father told me about a '38 plymouth he had where when the coils heated up on the firewall, the car would die, and not start until they cooled off.. Could this be my problem? It throws a code when I first start it up, too.

So I'm leaning toward changing the coil next, I've already changed the oil, and fuel filter (Aswell as seafoaming the engine and gas tank.. It already seems to run smoother than before this work.. Any ideas?

Oh yes, I forgot to add. I warmed the car up again after I could get it running again (About 2 hours) And we tested the spark again and it was an orange spark, instead of a blue one. Could we be on to something?

Common, I've seen more posts in the "How rare is my 1989 Recaro Trans Am" Topics!

1988 Camaro IROC-Z 305 TPI - Automatic.. If this makes any difference? It looks like the factory coil, too.

I didnt get any hits either. Must be the long week end!!!!1

It sounds like the ignition control module is bad. It is bolted (2 small bolts) to the distributor under the cap. If you take it to a parts store they can test it.

It could be the coil , ignition module , or pickup coil . All three can give the weak spark if they get hot and are not good parts . To answer your question yes the coil could be going out . A good rule of thumb is to change the coil and ignition module together just like if you have a bad alternator and the battery is old you replace both to be safe . The pickup coil can go bad bt the ignition module and coil are usually the problems .

It almost seems like a weak spark though, We'll try the coil first, if that doesn't fix it, we'll change the ignition module, and the pickup coil.. We're on a tight budget....

Yeah do that but if you still have spark issues or they get worse after the coil gets replaced then get an ignition module and you should have no problems with spark when hot .

Changed the coil, ran 100X better, no more bog when I pushed the gas pedal, it really smoothed out the car quite a bit.. Ran it up to temp.. Keyed it.... Still didn't want to start. We're pulling the dizzy right now to see whats up with it. Is there any way I can check the ignition module at home? We've got a Fluke meter.

No only a parts store or some shops can . It may pass but be warned that if the module isn't hot it may pass they will have to test it many times to get it to fail . If you can get the car to start and take it to the parts store and remove the module and have them test it then that would be the best .

What code does it throw when it's first started up

I got a code 15.. Temperature sensor says engine is cold... Unplugged the sensor.. Car started at 105 * C. Now.. To find what the part number is....

Good to hear you got it figured out .

Haha yeah, I think I lost some of my hair line trying to find it, too.

Maybe it will grow back .

Codes are shown for a reason, should have went with that first

Yeah anytime there is something wrong with the car you should always check for codes and if none really get to digging into it .

I believe i said check what code it was before you guys started this investigation!!!

ps. i like the smiley guys hehehe, they're different from other guys i was used too.....

Haha I now know to check the codes... but looking into the money the previous owner spent on this same problem, I don't feel so bad... We went through 4 receipts from the Parklane Chevrolet Cadillac dealership and it would say in the heading "Would start in AM, but when car was warm, fuel pressure would drop".

He spent $894 on a fuel pump, filter, and a fuel line, $600 changing the MAF, and more money doing the O2 sensors... It was just an ongoing problem for a few years.. It's probably the reason he got rid of the car. I changed the sensor out today for a new one, SES light is gone, and it idles at 700 RPM.. Not bad for $22.50.

So have you given it the allclear ?

Drove 170 km without an SES light.. Only one stall at a stop sign, I think it's just the old gas.

Good to hear .