i have been putting this engine together for a while now, trying to get it perfect, and i recently decided to go with a tuned port set up as apposed to carb. i would like to get some suggestions as far as the best cam (was considering the TPIS torque secrets cam) for my set up, and also ANY other suggestions or things that you guys may have done differently. i want a torque monster that i can drive on the street, probably wont see the track much. i would like to keep that low end torque that tpi's are known for, but not completely lose everything up high. If any of this sounds ignorant or unnecessary please let me know lol but this is all the info i have

70's 350 four bolt-.030" over-zero deck

1.94 heads- milled .100", screw in rocker studs, 3 angle valve job, bronze guides-1.5 stamped rr- ARP head bolts

valve springs- 1.7" IH, .060" shim, 110 seat press., 300 open press., 1.150 coil bind

speed-pro forged flat top pistons

sealed power rings- .016", .014", .030"

forged crank

reconditioned stock rods- ARP pro series wavelock bolts

compressed thickness of head gaskets is .041", PTV clearance is around .200" +, calculated compression ratio is 10.443:1

working with a stock tuned port set up at the moment(would like suggestions on this also)

tuning is readily available, fortunately one of my teachers (Ron Bilyeu) is my go to guy and can burn the chip for me, on the dyno with a wideband


The Cam i was originally going to go with was a sealed power ks1062r, 220/231 @.050, .312/.320 lift, 110 CL- was told wouldnt be a good cam for a tuned port

 

You're going to need to provide more info on the intake. Stock? What about the heads, what are they?

I'd suggest a few things:
Forget about torque. Its a V8. Its going to be (presumably) a TPI. It will make way more than enough.
If you are not planning on high RPM's or nitrous, forget the forged crank and wavelock bolts. Extra cost you dont need. Use the stock crank, and decent replacement bolts for the rods.

The cam choice is going to be entirely dependent on what heads and intake are on there. I would stay away from TPIS, just overpriced. I'll bet you can find an off the shelf grind from comp or summit that will work great for a lot less. At the very least if you keep it a "TPI" as GM designed it, replace the base and consider different runners.

 

i just know that the valves are like 1.94, 1.60 i think, they are just prod. iron heads, i will def. try and get more info on them, the "stock" intake set up is off the 305 thats in the car now, and was wanting suggestions from people that may have tried the diff bases and runners that are out there.

 

also if there are any other specs i should list to get better info, please let me know, thanks

 

Are you planning on porting the heads or having it done? That will be a place to pick up some decent power.
The Edelbrock base is the only bolt base left in production and its not bad so thats something you should get if you want to spend the money on it. The cheapest way out on runners is the SLP runners but they are no longer made so you'd have to find some used ones. The ASM runners are pricey.

I would stick with a cam with 215-220 duration on the intake, another 10 on the exhaust side, and as much lift as you can get. At least a 112LSA will help with tuning. Decent headers and a catback, should make some decent numbers if the heads will let you.

 

Are you planning on porting the heads or having it done? That will be a place to pick up some decent power.
The Edelbrock base is the only bolt base left in production and its not bad so thats something you should get if you want to spend the money on it. The cheapest way out on runners is the SLP runners but they are no longer made so you'd have to find some used ones. The ASM runners are pricey.

I would stick with a cam with 215-220 duration on the intake, another 10 on the exhaust side, and as much lift as you can get. At least a 112LSA will help with tuning. Decent headers and a catback, should make some decent numbers if the heads will let you.

 

I don't know if that was a misprint but the lift on the cam you wanted was .320. The cams that came in our cars stock were in the low .400 depending on year. You should get a cam in the low 500's for lift. i know that everyone beats on TPIS cams saying that they are overpriced, but the ZZ409 that I have works great, and I can still maintain 20mpg. As for heads a 1.94 intake and 1.60 exhaust is very restrictive. I would definately go for something in the 2.02 intake range. I know AFR makes some good heads there 195's are highly recommended here. As for an intake, did you want to go the HSR or MINI ram way

 

i will be porting and polishing the heads, and then flow them at my school. the lift that i advertised was lobe lift, with 1.5 rockers it would be .468/.480. im planning on sticking with the heads until my wallet allows me to get better ones lol as far as the intake i would prefer to just upgrade the base and runners, and do port n polish on the plenum, i like the look of the long runners and plenum

 

355? wutta piece. tpi? wutta piece as well. you dont even know how to build one!!!! it takes an expert to build an engine. your just a big o' dummy. and i heard you drive a ford mustang, so you should cancel you membership here!!!

 

clarmoacrzo u sound like a jackass saying that stuff... u most likely dont even know how to build your own engine either..... and before you say anything i built my engine... so think before you speak because you dont have room to talk considering you only posted 3 times on here...

 

ok 88fastgta, gmsoldier happens to be my best friend and class mate for the past 3 years and i put that on there to **** with him. hell iv even worked on that very engine he is talking about!! so dont even try to question my intelligence on these forums. so that makes you sound like the jackass here for even thinking that a post like that was even remotly serious.