So I went ahead and did the ac delete today on my car. After I was done decided to take her for a spin tried giving her gas and she died. Checked codes and it's throwing a 12,33, and 42. Need help on fixing these. Thanks.

 

12 is not a code, its the starting code pretty much.

33 is for High volt/low vac for map/maf

42 is Fault at electronic spark timing circuit OR Fault at direct ignition system OR Fault at fuel cutoff relay circuit

Those have nothing to do with the AC delete, sounds like you might of left some things unplugged or not put them back on properly.

 

But I put everything back correctly though. All I left unplugged was ac stuff ithoughtthat when I threw codes it'd be for ac stuff not this I don't know what else I need to plug it. I plugged the Maf back in that's all I needed to do.

 

Clear the codes, take off the negative from the bat and see if the codes come back, if they do, look into them.

 

I tried that. I went ahead and disconnected the negative battery feed and then unplugged and replugged the est wire, still idling like ****. Im really lost and kinda upset now and I wish that this didnt happen to me. Any one have knowledge about est and how to set my timing. I think that it has to do something with the timing because listening to the exhaust while the cars running, you can hear that the exhaust isnt smooth as possible. Im just scared that ill never get this thing running again.

 

Well it gives a code for the Map/Maf, Start there and see if that fixes your idle problem. Look around the forum about code 42, Its asked alot and probably has the steps for you to look into.

Be glad you sorta know what you have to deal with.

 

I know that its somewhere to start but i guess this will give me time to start cleaning up the engine bay alittle too as well.

 

Ohh and its only throwing code 42 now after the reset.

 

okay so im lost and don't know where to begin with this code 42. bump for help.

 

Have you checked that the connector that is disconnected to check timing is connected? That's right around where you were working and if may have inadvertently gotten disconnected/broken/etc. IIRC, that'll throw a code 42. Our cars are getting old now and there also may be an age related problem with that wire, (broken, chafed through, corroded connector, etc.).

 

That could be it. I was moving it around slot when I was doing the swap. I just don't know how to check it but I'll look into it.

 

It's the only connector that sticks out of the bundle of wires that are right above the heater box.

 

No i know what it is but how to check it is where im lost. Ima get a timing gun and make sure the timing is good. If not then ill look into the cap, rotor, and the ignition module next.

 

First would be an ohm meter to make sure it's not broken or grounded.

 

So i have a ohm volt meter. Im no good with electrical stuff so i have no idea how to test a wire for voltage. How could i do that.

 

So after nearly 2 weeks of it sitting infront of my house I finally got enough strength to go ahead and fix my car. The ignition module went bad somehow. When I was running the codes and testing my car i was noticing that it was actually putting the car in the mode to set the est as if the est wire want plugged in. I went ahead and checked all leads and no frays, cracks, or bends so it wasn't that. Then i traced it to the ecm and was noticing a .5 volt on the est wire in the ecm. Went ahead and swapped that out and it was still throwing the damn code. My last option was the ignition module. Luckily enough for me, I was able to get the money back for the ecm because the one i had wasn't broken, and i saved 190 bucks on that. After i put the new ignition module in, reset the timing (adv. it 2*) she runs fine now. Couldn't be happier rite now.