dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys!
I finally decided to install my Racetronix high flow fuel pump and "hot wire" kit on my car today. I did a bunch of research on here before I started to see if anyone had done one of these installs and posted pics, but I couldn't find anything. So I took a bunch of pics when I did mine today. I will post them on here if anyone is interested. I didn't receive any instructions with my kit, so I just kind of made it up as I went along. I will probably at least post a few pics on here anyways since I have a few questions that I'm hoping someone can answer.

I didn't see anywhere to install the package of fasteners that came with the kit. Then I realized that they probably were supposed to be installed on the back of the alternator to mount the fuse holder. My way worked just as well.

I'm assuming that I plug the Racetronix male plug into this terminal and then plug the wire from the sending unit/pump into the female plug. Am I correct in assuming this?


Later,
Dave

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Well, I got the tank back in the car and got the car started today. So I guess I answered my own question about that plug-in.

It took quite awhile to get the car running again. I guess the fuel system had a bunch of air in it from being opened up. Probably didn't help either that the car hasn't been run in close to a year. It ran real bad once I finally got it started. So I didn't run it for long. I started it again later (started much easier) and after a minute or so it started to run like it used to. I guess it finally got all of the air out of the system. I am going to replace the fuel filter next since removing the sending unit left a bunch of junk in my tank. See posts below.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to go ahead and post my fuel pump installation pics on here. Hopefully it will help someone in the future.

Here is the gas tank assembly removed from car. Notice the dirt around the filler tube connection to the gas tank. Luckily I investigated what it was. This dirt ended up being a sign that the filler tube connection to the tank was cracked and was leaking gas. I ended up fixing it with some JB Weld.

Probably why I was getting bad gas mileage before!

Note the writing on the top of the tank beside the hard lines coming from the sending unit. It's just a little detail, but I thought it might be handy in the future to note what pump I installed and what date I installed it in case I have to replace the pump again. That way I know how long the pump lasted. I probably should have noted the mileage too, but I just thought of it. Oh well.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Here is the sending unit/fuel pump assembly removed from the tank. The black junk on top of the tank is part of the fuel pump boot that disintegrated when I removed the assembly from the tank.

Here is the rest of it that came off in the tank. I had to get as much fuel out of the tank as possible then tipped the tank up a bit on one end and let it side over night to dry out. Then I stuck my arm down in there to get the big pieces out and used the shop vac to get the smaller stuff out. Just make sure you don't suck any gas into your shop vac. That probably wouldn't be good for it.

Here is the pump removed from the sending unit. The filter that goes on the end of the pump was shot. So It's a good thing it was getting replaced.


I'm not real sure why there has to be a boot over the pump that is made of some form of foam rubber or something similar. Doesn't seem like a good idea to me to put something like that down in gasoline. I'm assuming it's to prevent vibrations or maybe to keep the metal pump from rubbing against the metal sending unit and creating sparks. I'm sure GM had their reasons.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Here is the finished product ready to be put back in the tank

Here is the tank reinstalled

Now I understand why mechanics want around $500 to replace a fuel pump in one of these cars!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Here are the Racetronix wiring harness installations pics. I tie strapped the harness tight to the fuel lines

There was a hole in the center of the fuel filter bracket that I used to mount the relay and ground wire

I loosened that bolt (on the right side of the pic) enough to get the wire behind and below it. Then I tightened it back up and that harness isn't going to move anytime soon

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I routed the harness around the trans crossmember since I already had the wiring hooked-up at the alternator. I will fix this once I install my Spohn crossmember and install my LS1/4L60E

You can see the connection to the alternator in my original post.

There is no need to pull the harness tight. I had about 2 to 3 feet left over up by the alternator.

I recommend removing the rearend from the car when removing the gas tank since the tank needs to be rotated down and towards the front of the car to get it out of there. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the filler neck when removing the tank or you might end up with a crack like I had.

Since I have the rearend out of the car I am going to take it to Advanced Driveline in Orlando to have them make sure everything is working correctly so that I won't have to worry about it once I get my LS1 in the car. I am also going to get a TA Performance cover for it with the upgraded studs. I will post a pic once I get it all back together in the car.

trocustoms

iTrader: (1)

Nicely done my good man ! How many hours? Mine came out relatively easy. Wasnt near as bad as i thought it was going to be. Pretty easy.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I'm not really sure how many hours since I was working back and forth between this and my LS1. I wasn't in a hurry. If I had to guestimate I'd say somewhere around 20 hours. This was my first time doing a fuel pump, so I'm sure next time I can do it much quicker. Yeah, I'd say overall it was a fairly easy procedure.

trocustoms

iTrader: (1)

Were you having voltage issues with your old pump? Or did you put it in for good measure? the hot wire kit.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

No, no voltage issues. I just wanted to make sure I had full power to it for maximum pump performance for the upcoming LS1. I'm trying to be proactive as much as possible.

Racetronix

Make special note of section 6 in this video series:



NEW PRODUCT:

Racetronix

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

That's a very informative video and those are some very helpful photos. Thanks for your input. I will make a few corrections on my system once I get my LS1 installed. Are there usually instructions in your kits like the one I used?

Racetronix

The photos are from our web ad for this product.

Tech support / manuals are available in electronic format. Please reference your sales order or packing slip or on-line order notification for access to this information.

Thanks.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I finally rerouted my harness and got it all where Racetronix intended it to be with most of the wiring hidden.
I can't figure out how to get the picture on here when I already have it on another post/thread. Oh well, this works, no big deal.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

I got the rearend of my car back together if anybody wants to see it. Go to this link and go down towards the bottom of page two. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...my-89-a-2.html

porkenstein

iTrader: (1)

Thanks so much. I am glad I ran accross this thread. I was in the process of ordering the kit as I am installing an ls3 in my 91. Pictures really helped.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Oh cool. You're welcome. Glad I could help

porkenstein

iTrader: (1)

Got the kit today. As with you I didnt receive any instructions. Maybe to most it might be obvious but it would have helped. Also I believe I am missing a part. I don't believe I received the pump booster interface. I am trying to figure everything out before I call them. I dont need it right now but I paid for it.

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Cool. Check on their website. Maybe you can find some directions there.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

It really is very simple. Once you get under the car you'll see whats going on.
The booster pump interface is the connector on the big red wire.
You should also have a lil bag with the parts(electrical connectors,stod nuts an dielectric grease) to make the boost-a-pump hookup easy.
Not much to it.

porkenstein

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if I ordered the wrong fuel pump. The one I got was GSS294M Walbro. I am feeling dumber by the day. Looking back at their site It lists the gms340 as the pump for the kit. I guess I know just enough to be dangerous

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

We all have our days..

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Did you get it figured out Porkenstein?

porkenstein

iTrader: (1)

Yes I think I am fine. Will let you know when I finish.

Vinni

hey Porkenstein, how did u go?