ok how important is the csi? was about to pull fpr and i noticed that only 1 wire is connected to my csi? wire is clearly broken..car ran fine before and wire had to be broken then.have to use starter fluid to crank now,even after running for 16 mins it wont crank back up after immediate off. fuel pressure drops on gauge 42,41,34,23 hold hold 15,12 10 hold

 

CSI only sprays fuel while cranking on cold starts
If you have warm start problems ; look elsewhere

 

I disconnected mine years ago, and never had any problems.

 

I RECONNECTED BROKEN WIRE, NOW CAR WILL START RIGHT UP...WTF before it would only crank off starter fluid..also it primes to 47 now instead of 43 or 41..really aggravating me..so if it cranks now with csi hooked up deff cant be fuel pump right?still bleeds down but holds longer at 43...is there anything in that area that i might have hit thats causing it to crank now cause im sure that wire has always been like that...no check engine codes showing..drives fine and now cranks fine but just started tonight...im wondering what happens when it gets warm outside....actually after driving it it will crank right back up..before it wouldnt recrank without starter fluid.........maybe i got visited by the camaro fairy and she fixed it

 

Where exactly is this wire you fixed?

 

at the csi..the wire broke right at the plug head....only thing i did was pull the pcv hose off and out the way unplug the csi, fix the wire, and to my suprise it crunk up without starter fluid

 

At what temperature does the cold start injector function? & does it add fuel, or does it function in replacement of the other 8 durring a cold start? I am battling with a gremlin on cold starts, but mine only runs rough for about 6-8 seconds when started cold (60-70 degrees)

 

Cold start injector only gets power when starter is cranking, and when the Engine Temp is below 95, for a max of 8 seconds of crank time . Adds fuel on top of the 8 injectors. They do go bad, and are tough to repair or replace. You can move to a newer Prom tune that eliminates the CSI in favor of more fuel to the 8 injectors via the ECM.

 

Thanks for the reply, If it only injects durring crank, I am guessing thats not my problem. Mine will jump to 1000 RPMs after crank, but then just barely hangs on running for about 5-8 seconds, then jumps back up to 1000rpms & will start perfect everytime until it sits for another 5-6 hours. Car runs fantastic, just this cold startup problem.
Here's the video, if you feel like giving me an opinion http://automationsystems.ws/images/5.7stumble.wmv

The car is completely stock, with exception to a replaced muffler about 10 years ago.

 

It looks more like a fuel delivery issue, like the pump takes a little time to pressurize the Fuel Rail. Do you let the pump run for 1-2 seconds before you hit the key? Try that and see if it helps. Other possibility is that the CSI is not functioning at all, causing the engine to try and run just on the injectors ( too lean for cold start-up- like using no choke on a carb'd engine)

 

I have 45 Lbs at the rails at start up & the pressure is steady durring the "rough start" period & stays the same when it clears up. I have also tried cycling the fuel pump a couple times before starting it. The strange thing is, you can set a stop watch to how long it runs like that. Its exactly the same each time. In a way, it almost seems rich? I tried to see what the 02 was reading, but it such a short time I don't see anything notable in the values.

Maybe tonight I will see if I can unplug the injector & see if anything seems diffferent at all

 

OK, Unplugged the CSI & it wouldn't start at all. While trying this I had my Noid light plugged into the CSI harness & the light was on solid while cranking. no pulsing, I assume this is normal? The CSI must just be a steady spray while cranking. I am guessing this isn't my problem, unless the CSI is continuing to spray after I release the keyswitch & is dumping in extra fuel for the first moment of the engine running? I can test this with the noid light once the engine is cold again.

 

Sounds like the CSI is working as designed. I don't have it on mine ( eliminated it), but I think I would next look at your TPS setting and IAC. They sort of work together, so If you change one, you have to check the other. Check the TPS voltage first, and if it is OK, then I would re-set the IAC and see if this helps to clear up the trouble.

By the way, what was the color of the wire that was broken on the CSI?

 

darbysan, I have pretty much stole this thread away from irocwagon. I think He had the broken wire. That being said, I cleaned the IAC & set the baseline idle & TPS.
Then, convinced it was still my IAC, I replaced it. No change, Base idle is set to 450+ with the IAC closed & unplugged, TPS is at 52. I have watched the IAC through my snap on solus scanner & it really tries to bring the idle up by opening up to a reading as high as 150, but then quickly drops to 60ish as soon as the idle smoothens out.

 

F-Body_fan, only other thing I can think of is a vacuum leak. Maybe a hose is cracked somewhere. Check with come carb cleaner or starter fluid . If the idle speeds up, you may have found the leak. Other than that, I will leave it to the real experts on here to offer suggestions.

 

If you have time, can you take a peek?

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...ml#post5047626

And Sorry Irocwagon for commandeering your thread....