I hope this is the right section of the forums. Please move thread to right section if need be.
The Car:
1992 Firebird Formula 305 tuned port injection (TPI) 5 speed manual (black) 104,000 original miles

The story:
Month or so ago I decided to take the car out of my garage and take it for a spin since it was sitting since last fall before winter set in. When I first started the car it fired right up. I drove for about 4 miles going only about 50 mph when all of a studden the firebird killed itself. I tried starting the car on the road again and it would turn over and fire and run for about 1-3 seconds and kill itself. It has been doing it ever since.
Now:
I'm getting great spark.
The car will run on starting fluid Fuel pressure to the rails 45-50 psi.
Fuel pump primes to 45-50 psi everytime I turn the key to on position.
I've replaced the following:
Map Sensor
Fuel Pump
Oil Pressure Switch
Even though I knew I had great spark I've tried/replaced - Distributor cap, Rotor, coil, ignition module
The Car:
1992 Firebird Formula 305 tuned port injection (TPI) 5 speed manual (black) 104,000 original miles

The story:
Month or so ago I decided to take the car out of my garage and take it for a spin since it was sitting since last fall before winter set in. When I first started the car it fired right up. I drove for about 4 miles going only about 50 mph when all of a studden the firebird killed itself. I tried starting the car on the road again and it would turn over and fire and run for about 1-3 seconds and kill itself. It has been doing it ever since.
Now:
I'm getting great spark.
The car will run on starting fluid Fuel pressure to the rails 45-50 psi.
Fuel pump primes to 45-50 psi everytime I turn the key to on position.
I've replaced the following:
Map Sensor
Fuel Pump
Oil Pressure Switch
Even though I knew I had great spark I've tried/replaced - Distributor cap, Rotor, coil, ignition module
update:
Thought I'd try to eliminate the possibility of it being vats so I checked the resistance of my key and the resistance at the lock cylinder with it in the on and off position and the resistance both match with my key. The security light only comes on for a few seconds when I turn the key to the on position but it turns off immediately and remains off.
Thought I'd try to eliminate the possibility of it being vats so I checked the resistance of my key and the resistance at the lock cylinder with it in the on and off position and the resistance both match with my key. The security light only comes on for a few seconds when I turn the key to the on position but it turns off immediately and remains off.
Member
Hi Mike,
Have you changed the fuel filter? Are you using fuel that was in the car before winter?
Did you verify +12V at one of the two oil pressure switch connector wires? You made sure to replace the oil pressure switch for the fuel pump right, not for the pressure gauge? No offense meant, just an easy mistake to make for the guy behind the counter...
What does the fuel pressure do when the car stalls? Does it start to fall and then the car stalls or the other way around?
Hope this helps.
Have you changed the fuel filter? Are you using fuel that was in the car before winter?
Did you verify +12V at one of the two oil pressure switch connector wires? You made sure to replace the oil pressure switch for the fuel pump right, not for the pressure gauge? No offense meant, just an easy mistake to make for the guy behind the counter...
What does the fuel pressure do when the car stalls? Does it start to fall and then the car stalls or the other way around?
Hope this helps.
Junior Member
Quote:
Have you changed the fuel filter? Are you using fuel that was in the car before winter?
Did you verify +12V at one of the two oil pressure switch connector wires? You made sure to replace the oil pressure switch for the fuel pump right, not for the pressure gauge? No offense meant, just an easy mistake to make for the guy behind the counter...
What does the fuel pressure do when the car stalls? Does it start to fall and then the car stalls or the other way around?
Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by skibum2100
Hi Mike,Have you changed the fuel filter? Are you using fuel that was in the car before winter?
Did you verify +12V at one of the two oil pressure switch connector wires? You made sure to replace the oil pressure switch for the fuel pump right, not for the pressure gauge? No offense meant, just an easy mistake to make for the guy behind the counter...
What does the fuel pressure do when the car stalls? Does it start to fall and then the car stalls or the other way around?
Hope this helps.
Quote:
Have you changed the fuel filter? Are you using fuel that was in the car before winter?
Did you verify +12V at one of the two oil pressure switch connector wires? You made sure to replace the oil pressure switch for the fuel pump right, not for the pressure gauge? No offense meant, just an easy mistake to make for the guy behind the counter...
What does the fuel pressure do when the car stalls? Does it start to fall and then the car stalls or the other way around?
Hope this helps.
Thanks for your reply!Originally Posted by skibum2100
Hi Mike,Have you changed the fuel filter? Are you using fuel that was in the car before winter?
Did you verify +12V at one of the two oil pressure switch connector wires? You made sure to replace the oil pressure switch for the fuel pump right, not for the pressure gauge? No offense meant, just an easy mistake to make for the guy behind the counter...
What does the fuel pressure do when the car stalls? Does it start to fall and then the car stalls or the other way around?
Hope this helps.
I have not changed the fuel filter but I removed the filter to blow through it as a test and I could freely blow through the filter with my mouth. The filter barely has over 200-400 miles between the years of storage
It has fresh gas because I emptied the gas tank when I changed the fuel pump out.
The oil pressure sensor was changed near the oil filter. It is the 3 prong pluggin. I checked and one of the three wires is hot. I believe my car only has 1 oil pressure sensor? If not, where's the sensor for my oil pressure gauge?
I do not know what happens to the fuel pressure while I'm trying to crank the engine (will be my next mission), but what I can say is that I tried to force the pump to run constantly while I turn the engine and it only fires for a few seconds and dies.
My 91 did similar stuff...
How many miles on engine? Did you check the ohm's on the stock fuel injectors?
That's what I think is my problem... I've done all the other stuff mentioned above...
Rafael
How many miles on engine? Did you check the ohm's on the stock fuel injectors?
That's what I think is my problem... I've done all the other stuff mentioned above...
Rafael
Supreme Member
probably injectors.
Quote:
How many miles on engine? Did you check the ohm's on the stock fuel injectors?
That's what I think is my problem... I've done all the other stuff mentioned above...
Rafael
Originally Posted by luvofjah
My 91 did similar stuff...How many miles on engine? Did you check the ohm's on the stock fuel injectors?
That's what I think is my problem... I've done all the other stuff mentioned above...
Rafael
It has 104,000 original miles.
I just checked the resistance of 2 injectors and both have a reading of .16 Is this well within spec? Should I start checking them all?
can the pickup coil be faulty if I can get the car to run for a second and die or if I can run for 10 -15 seconds on starting fluid or until i stop giving it starting fluid?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ninetyone
probably injectors. You know what? I'm starting to think you could be right.
I checked the Resistance of the Injectors and they are .16 (within spec).
I cleaned the ground wires and stud at the engine block.
While cranking the engine I'm getting constant 40-45 psi fuel pressure to the rails and good spark. I just finished ordering a VATs/anti theft bypass module in hopes that it will allow the computer to run the injectors. There is an unconditional 30 day full refund on the module if the bypass doesn't fix my problem. What I do know for sure is that my ignition lock cylinder and key both share the same resistance so I know that my key and lock cylinder isn't faulty.
I feel like after all my troubleshooting that I've done. The car should atleast run and idle really poorly/rough.
Supreme Member
No, check them all . All your injectors.
Member
You can check to see if the ECM is sending a pulse to the injectors. Hook up a test light to the injector connector and try to start the engine. If there is an injector pulse coming from the ECM you will see the light illuminate.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
